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7018 with the least porosity

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:57 pm

olek wrote:
Lightning wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.


Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?


Hello, I did not see more than 662 F , I was given a nice big electrical oven (the minuter did not work) the thermometer inside it tells me 536 F
AT that level of temperatures the humidity goes out of the rods anyway,I think that if the oven (not a toaster ) gives yet 464 F adding one hour drying may suffice.

I have friends using 7018 simply kept in the driest place of the house, with a short drying eventually '30 min to one hour in the oven)

The cooling of the rods should be done soon in a sealed box , as a hot coating will attract moisture from the air soon.

The plastic tubing box used for electrodes when working outside, are rated for 221 F (105°celsius)

I do not believe the rods go from the oven to those boxes immediately, probably to a portable oven if available.
Did some reading on the Lincoln electric Linc provided by Lightning. Then checked some other sites. I believe from what I have read that the heating procedures apply mainly to rods left outside of a storage container. I usually take the rods out of the package and emediatly place them into the plastic container. Now the rods that I use, are from a box store and I'm not sure if moisture affects them differently then the Excaliber rods. So basically I take them out of the container and go e them a pre heat in the small oven that I have. One thing that I did not do on damp days is heat up the part to be welded. Since my garage is damp, the metal seems to have moisture on it while welding. I think the best would be to take a welding course. But here in Ontario , I can't seem to find an affordable course. Most are geared to people wanting to get into welding as professional's.

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:57 pm

olek wrote:
Lightning wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.


Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?


Hello, I did not see more than 662 F , I was given a nice big electrical oven (the minuter did not work) the thermometer inside it tells me 536 F
AT that level of temperatures the humidity goes out of the rods anyway,I think that if the oven (not a toaster ) gives yet 464 F adding one hour drying may suffice.

I have friends using 7018 simply kept in the driest place of the house, with a short drying eventually '30 min to one hour in the oven)

The cooling of the rods should be done soon in a sealed box , as a hot coating will attract moisture from the air soon.

The plastic tubing box used for electrodes when working outside, are rated for 221 F (105°celsius)

I do not believe the rods go from the oven to those boxes immediately, probably to a portable oven if available.
Did some reading on the Lincoln electric Linc provided by Lightning. Then checked some other sites. I believe from what I have read that the heating procedures apply mainly to rods left outside of a storage container. I usually take the rods out of the package and emediatly place them into the plastic container. Now the rods that I use, are from a box store and I'm not sure if moisture affects them differently then the Excaliber rods. So basically I take them out of the container and go e them a pre heat in the small oven that I have. One thing that I did not do on damp days is heat up the part to be welded. Since my garage is damp, the metal seems to have moisture on it while welding. I think the best would be to take a welding course. But here in Ontario , I can't seem to find an affordable course. Most are geared to people wanting to get into welding as professional's.

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:59 pm

olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:
olek wrote:[quote="Danylo66"]Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D




Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

Do you have some

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1
Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

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what you mean "small" inverter ?

Do you have some 3/32 rods ? may be easier to begin with (and they ask less from the inverter)

I dont know for sure but if you do a real rod drying 3 hours the oven at its max (should be 300 350°celsius) then keep them sealed , eventually with some silicate bags too, I believe they should weld well out of the storage, and if not , half an hour or one hour in the oven may do it.

how much open current voltage do you have with your welder ? I seem to remind 58 60V open are necessary so the rod is keep lightening at all times[/quote]Olek I have an Everlast 140 that's there smallest model. Unfortunatly the machine does not show voltage. Only amps. I have both 1/8 & 3/32 rods. I'm running between 60 and 100 amps. I have tested the machine with an amp clamp meter and it is off by approx 15 amps. So I have done a few tests with different settings. Again the rods are the basic home use type from what the conversations have led to. I'll be looking for an oven that will heat at higher ranges. I'm just surprised that the new rods that I bought, and stored in a rod holder would run strange after a few short weeks. Maybe over a month.

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:59 pm

olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:
olek wrote:[quote="Danylo66"]Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D




Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

Do you have some

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1
Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk


what you mean "small" inverter ?

Do you have some 3/32 rods ? may be easier to begin with (and they ask less from the inverter)

I dont know for sure but if you do a real rod drying 3 hours the oven at its max (should be 300 350°celsius) then keep them sealed , eventually with some silicate bags too, I believe they should weld well out of the storage, and if not , half an hour or one hour in the oven may do it.

how much open current voltage do you have with your welder ? I seem to remind 58 60V open are necessary so the rod is keep lightening at all times[/quote]Olek I have an Everlast 140 that's there smallest model. Unfortunatly the machine does not show voltage. Only amps. I have both 1/8 & 3/32 rods. I'm running between 60 and 100 amps. I have tested the machine with an amp clamp meter and it is off by approx 15 amps. So I have done a few tests with different settings. Again the rods are the basic home use type from what the conversations have led to. I'll be looking for an oven that will heat at higher ranges. I'm just surprised that the new rods that I bought, and stored in a rod holder would run strange after a few short weeks. Maybe over a month.

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:49 pm

Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods)

Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage)
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/site ... 40ST_0.pdf
seem to have correct capacity for a small unit, even 6011 can be used thay say.

You are may be loosing amps because of the electrical circuitry ?
The kitchen oven do it OK , because the real cooking of those rods is to make code work,if you have less heat, dry longer, but what happen when you get your rods hot from the oven is that they attract the moisture of the air, so this is the moment to put them in a sealed box.

It is moderately humid here and I use Lincoln 7018 -1, as I said among the cheapest rods for about 23€ for the large packet of about 4,6 KG (and they are resistant to moisture at least somehow)

You may want to try your 3/32 rods at the max amp rate written on the box 90 100 A ?

The rod should go glowing red before the end may be the last third. If not your inverter is cheating .

To do so with the 1/8 you need 160A unless those are 6013 1/8 with a max allowed of 120A , so in that case use the max , again the rod should glow red before its end .

if you have not enough amps the 1/8 7018 will stick easily

The Open current level is written on the identification card of your welder



Regards
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:29 am

olek wrote:Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods)

Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage)
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/site ... 40ST_0.pdf
seem to have correct capacity for a small unit, even 6011 can be used thay say.

You are may be loosing amps because of the electrical circuitry ?
The kitchen oven do it OK , because the real cooking of those rods is to make code work,if you have less heat, dry longer, but what happen when you get your rods hot from the oven is that they attract the moisture of the air, so this is the moment to put them in a sealed box.

It is moderately humid here and I use Lincoln 7018 -1, as I said among the cheapest rods for about 23€ for the large packet of about 4,6 KG (and they are resistant to moisture at least somehow)

You may want to try your 3/32 rods at the max amp rate written on the box 90 100 A ?

The rod should go glowing red before the end may be the last third. If not your inverter is cheating .

To do so with the 1/8 you need 160A unless those are 6013 1/8 with a max allowed of 120A , so in that case use the max , again the rod should glow red before its end .

if you have not enough amps the 1/8 7018 will stick easily

The Open current level is written on the identification card of your welder



Regards
Okay I'll give that a try. The kitchen oven that is. The machine does not seem to have a problem with 1/8 inch rods. I set it to about 105 amps and it burns in nicely. 6011 rods however, this machine does not weld with them. It's a he'll of a mess. Spatter like crazy and in the end there is no am at to cover and protect the weld. I'll try the kitchen oven tomorrow. Thanks again.

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:30 am

olek wrote:Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods)

Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage)
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/site ... 40ST_0.pdf
seem to have correct capacity for a small unit, even 6011 can be used thay say.

You are may be loosing amps because of the electrical circuitry ?
The kitchen oven do it OK , because the real cooking of those rods is to make code work,if you have less heat, dry longer, but what happen when you get your rods hot from the oven is that they attract the moisture of the air, so this is the moment to put them in a sealed box.

It is moderately humid here and I use Lincoln 7018 -1, as I said among the cheapest rods for about 23€ for the large packet of about 4,6 KG (and they are resistant to moisture at least somehow)

You may want to try your 3/32 rods at the max amp rate written on the box 90 100 A ?

The rod should go glowing red before the end may be the last third. If not your inverter is cheating .

To do so with the 1/8 you need 160A unless those are 6013 1/8 with a max allowed of 120A , so in that case use the max , again the rod should glow red before its end .

if you have not enough amps the 1/8 7018 will stick easily

The Open current level is written on the identification card of your welder



Regards
Okay I'll give that a try. The kitchen oven that is. The machine does not seem to have a problem with 1/8 inch rods. I set it to about 105 amps and it burns in nicely. 6011 rods however, this machine does not weld with them. It's a he'll of a mess. Spatter like crazy and in the end there is no am at to cover and protect the weld. I'll try the kitchen oven tomorrow. Thanks again.

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Wed Dec 06, 2017 3:23 am

Hello, slight correction, 105A I use for welding uphill a corner. (because heat raise , the piece will get very hot soon)
Flat, 7018 will weld better at 115A.. (up to 120 down 110) - corrected by your 15A cheat to test

if when it is said 105 you only have 90 you are too low in amps
the bead shape and how it goes is supposed to tell us if the amps are good.
Those rods like to have enough amps it also dry them sooner when welding

your welder have automated arc force, so even with too little amps it may add some amps when you get a very small arc.

You have a nicediscussion on how to check if your welder provide the amps it display :

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?73 ... Stick-guys

look at that nice table with amps http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php?at ... 1512313058

Image
Last edited by olek on Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:14 pm

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A
Image

Image

THen after on hour 1/8 110-115 A (the hand begin to be more steady, and the eye see better the puddle

Image

Image

Image

Feel good after 2 hours, tomorrow I will fulfill that angle with 1/8
I think it is the simplest method to learn (whith a few tricks from the forums)

Usually I grind as soon as a bead is wrong, so the next have chances to be better, but here it was late so I had to leave my starts (I sticked a few times) and the waving straight beads ;)
Last edited by olek on Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
olek
Ace
 
Posts: 213
Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: France

Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:16 pm

olek wrote:Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A
Image
Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

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