Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Danylo66
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    Thu Jun 16, 2016 1:16 am
  • Location:
    Ontario Canada

olek wrote:Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A
Image
Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
olek
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  • Joined:
    Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:07 pm
  • Location:
    France

Danylo66 wrote:
olek wrote:Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A
Image
Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
You use the tag but you need a link to the picture. Not all links work from my cell phone (your images should be public first)
It is easier from the puter so I wait to be home to send pics.

Something is Wong with your Tapatalk as it send twice..
Regards
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
Danylo66
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jun 16, 2016 1:16 am
  • Location:
    Ontario Canada

olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:
olek wrote:Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A
Image
Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
You use the tag but you need a link to the picture. Not all links work from my cell phone (your images should be public first)
It is easier from the puter so I wait to be home to send pics.

Something is Wong with your Tapatalk as it send twice..
Regards
I Don't know what it's doing it gives me an error message when I try to send. I'll send pics using the comp.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
Danylo66
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jun 16, 2016 1:16 am
  • Location:
    Ontario Canada

olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:
olek wrote:Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A
Image
Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
You use the tag but you need a link to the picture. Not all links work from my cell phone (your images should be public first)
It is easier from the puter so I wait to be home to send pics.

Something is Wong with your Tapatalk as it send twice..
Regards
I Don't know what it's doing it gives me an error message when I try to send. I'll send pics using the comp.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
olek
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:07 pm
  • Location:
    France

When you will be "padding" have a bucket of water to "quench" and get rid of the extra heat.

every 2 or 3 beads with 2/32 , every 2 with 1/8 ; Just a fast pass in the water, no need to get totally rid of the heat you need some to dry the pieces.

I suggest that you begin with medium amps regulation, for instance 95 for the 2/32 on 1/5^steel , then raise amps 5 by 5 until the slag peels of almost by itself (you must go slow enough to obtain this)
Then look if there is not too much heat, (no undercut , not too much spatter, I have almost zero with the amps I use, not at the max) Note the good regulation for next time

Try to have steel at least 5 mm (1/5 ") it is harder with thinner steel.
hold the stinger as a brush for painting, very quietly, and focus on the puddle (not the arc, but with 7018 there is a cone at the tip of the rod so the arc is not very bright, you feel it is very small as 1-2mm but part of the arc is in the rod.)

The first motion to learn, it is an easy one, take a 80 degree angle with the stinger horizontal (for instance) and simply lower your arm while the rod go smaller. This create an even advance.
If your angle is too large you will advance too fast, the only thing is to be sure the puddle do not pass the rod.
I used a 85 degree, to 80, angle when padding (the first bead in the corner I had a too strong angle , did not see the puddle well enough in the center and it is too thin)



Very important not to start "cold" so once the rod is lightened make a small circle to create the puddle, if , as many beginners, you begin to advance without seing the puddle the rest of the bead will not have enough heat; You really need to see a pool of weld, round, a little ovale, size 2x to 3x the weld of the rod , when you advance it must follow., if not and it enlarge there is too much amps or heat. (or you are too slow, but this is rare, beginners have the other tendency, to rush)

When I was beginning I find easier to make beads from the upper top toward me (on a flat piece, you can incline it a little)
But in real life I doubt we often weld in that direction. Anyway for padding, all directions should be explored I think.

Good beads !
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
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