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Choosing stick electrodes

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Re: Choosing stick electrodes

Postby olek » Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:58 am

MinnesotaDave wrote:
olek wrote:
Poland308 wrote:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx

Just a quick note. Drying electrodes has more effect than just on the starts. Using the electrodes is probably fine, I use old 7018 for lots of stuff. But drying them at too high a temp is not recommended. And drying them longer at lower temps is not the same.


I noticed they burn more smoothly, but no x-ray or other test of course. For temp, due to the high temp the y accept may not be easy to overrun it. What I do is one hour at max

For less temp/longer run, I rely on basic chemistry, temp is energy, when using a catalysed product as epoxy, Polyurethane , drying /hardening follow the rule, if you have less heat, dry longer. If course there are effects of drying fast or slow too, but with electrodes coating, what do you think could possibly change?


For a chemistry layman like myself, I refer to the published literature on the subject.
The answer is the flux does not absorb water like a sponge, the water becomes chemically bonded to flux.

This is the reason for such high temperatures to re-bake the rods. The high temperature is required to break the bonds.

The same happens in the energy of the arc while welding.
The bonds get broken and that's how hydrogen disassociates and gets into the weld.
(the big words are from the published literature :D )



Thank you,that is a perfectly good explanation.

so water vapor begin a chemical condition change of parts of the binder only reverted by high heat level.

Basic drying allows to have better functional rods anyway, hopefully (normal start, soft arc, ...)

Regards
Pianos , restorer and tuner
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