Whoa, watch it...I love that $#!T...it's one of the best to repair cast iron...and I hate to admit but i have jb-welded nuts on for almost the same application, different project....I've used it to get me out of a pinch before...it works. On broken cast iron parts I have used blue painters tape to build a small dam around the area I want to fix, pour the jb-weld in, then machine or file after it's dry.homeboy wrote:JB Weld -- AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHH !!!!
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Just kidding. I have heard it's a good product also.aland wrote:Whoa, watch it...I love that $#!T...it's one of the best to repair cast iron...and I hate to admit but i have jb-welded nuts on for almost the same application, different project....I've used it to get me out of a pinch before...it works. On broken cast iron parts I have used blue painters tape to build a small dam around the area I want to fix, pour the jb-weld in, then machine or file after it's dry.homeboy wrote:JB Weld -- AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHH !!!!
The reason I even mentioned I possibly shouldn't mention it on a welding forum is that it is kind of a controversial topic, but it is pretty darn useful and I know a lot of XLNT machinists that use it.homeboy wrote:aland wrote:Just kidding. I have heard it's a good product also.
It is really good to be used as a filler, like in a porous situation where you want to paint a machine, as an example. If you let it firm up just a bit you can use it like bondo to smooth out the cast iron.
Alan
Without a doubt JB weld or any specialty epoxy definitely have a place. Theres always more than one way to skin a cat. Sometimes it’s the most practical, economical, or efficient solution. I’ve used a product from 3m that’s called liquid metal for repairing small screw holes that needed filled and retapped. When disassembly or heat from welding wasn’t an efficient option.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
Lightning...I'm gonna use it. I'm kind of curious now. I was going to use 7018 today, but before I went out to the garage I got inclined to google for the super missleweld. This link to video Wyatt Swaim did a few years ago talks about it. This is good information on the subject, but it got me to thinking I just try one of those electrodes.Lightning wrote:P.S. That SuperMissileWeld is some exotic, expensive and effective stuff. I sure as he¡¡ wouldn't waste it for your little "welded nut" project.
Honestly, I could get more if I wanted and can even get them at my LWS. He was nice enough to give me a few, I should just use them. The interesting part is how the chromium carbides build up on the backside. I think tig will be the choice for similar welding in the future, so I might as well burn one and use a fan to blow that chromium off to the neighbors house...
I will probably have the other 3 electrodes in my canister 10 years from now...
Oh, this video is doing tig, but mentions and talks about the super missleweld. Wyatt also implies some of the dangers in using it, I'll just use a fan. I'll let you know how it goes.
Last edited by aland on Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ok, I'm sure that was way overkill, but how many times in your life do you get to say you welded your nuts with super missionweld ?
Learned a couple interesting pieces of information. I saw that Chrome nuts are twice the price of Stainless. That makes sense as Chrome Moly is much more durable, I just hadn't thought about it like that.
The Harris Space MissionWeld is much easier to stop/start/restart than 7018, and flows pretty nice, I would say a similar puddle for me.
I used an IR Thermometer I got recently to test the temp on the weld and metal, and about 10-20 seconds after welding the weld/nut/metal was around 160F-190F degrees, but the bolt I screwed into the nut while I welded was about 250F-300F degrees.
Interesting that so much heat travels through the nut/steel to the bolt but those are cooler.
That Space MissleWeld starts really easy, I was using 88 amps on a 3/32" electrode with about 50% Arc Force. Damn it burns quick on those little rods, they're only like 8" long. The 1/8" rods are the standard 14".
I can cross that off my bucket list now...
Alan
Learned a couple interesting pieces of information. I saw that Chrome nuts are twice the price of Stainless. That makes sense as Chrome Moly is much more durable, I just hadn't thought about it like that.
The Harris Space MissionWeld is much easier to stop/start/restart than 7018, and flows pretty nice, I would say a similar puddle for me.
I used an IR Thermometer I got recently to test the temp on the weld and metal, and about 10-20 seconds after welding the weld/nut/metal was around 160F-190F degrees, but the bolt I screwed into the nut while I welded was about 250F-300F degrees.
Interesting that so much heat travels through the nut/steel to the bolt but those are cooler.
That Space MissleWeld starts really easy, I was using 88 amps on a 3/32" electrode with about 50% Arc Force. Damn it burns quick on those little rods, they're only like 8" long. The 1/8" rods are the standard 14".
I can cross that off my bucket list now...
Alan
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