Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

aland wrote: Skiddz,

I was having an issue on my machine, and hadn't paid much attention to it. I realized the next day after thinking things through, and was looking in the manual. I saw the ARC Force and checked the setting, which was down around 5%. I was having problems with both 6011 and 7018...

Jody has an XLNT video you should watch where he talks about it. His numbers are almost exactly the same as what you got on the Miller forum.
Thx for the link to the vid. I took a pic of the machine at the last class so I could get the model off of it and DL the manual. Just for giggles, I took a better look at it to see where the Inductance/Dig knob was set. It's right around 30 so I'm definitely going to dial it up on Tuesday night and see how it goes.
Poland308 wrote:If you’ve been running consistent beads. Then you will notice arc forces biggest visual que is at the toes of the weld. The edges will flow and wet in different. More arc force will cause them to dig in / less will flow more. I tend to crank up mine if I’m welding on rusty or painted stuff.
Yeah, I can run fairly consistent beads flat and horizontal. With 7018 I can get the toes to flow out pretty good if I can get my travel speed "correct". Too slow and it tends to stack up and sometimes "roll over". Too fast and the beads get concave and it gets hard to fix that when doing stacked fillets. Like i said above, I'm definitely going to mess with the Dig setting over the next couple classes and see how it goes.

I've almost talked myself into buying a Millermatic 210 so may be able to get in even more practice at home by this time next week.
Lightning
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Skiddz wrote:I've almost talked myself into buying a Millermatic 210 so may be able to get in even more practice at home by this time next week.
Isn't that a mig machine? If you can run 6010 with that, you're a whole lot better than me!
Poland308
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That makes sense 30 or 3. Depending on manufacturers. Is about what most guys run with 7018. Try 5-8 on the 6010.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Lightning wrote:
Isn't that a mig machine? If you can run 6010 with that, you're a whole lot better than me!
Sorry, MULTImatic 215...
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Did a little more horizontal tonight. Played with Arc Control when doing 6010 passes. Looks like 67/68 is the "sweet spot" for this particular machine. 7018 seemed to like right at 20. 6010 Root passes actually looked decent and only a couple REALLY small sections of undercut and I'm pretty sure I can eliminate them with a tick more "pause". Ran 10 passes (Stacking fillets) on each side and then cut the work pieces in half to check penetration etc. Had a small pore in an area pass number 3 would have been and I think it might have been where I had a restart. Still can't get them quite right, but definitely getting better.

After cutting, we went back to vertical. Ugh. T joints, 6010 root pass, 7018 cover. Laid down the first 6010 root pass using an inverted T motion. The first two inches were actually pretty nice (see pic) and then it all went to pot. Lost my rhythm and couldn't seem to stay focused on the puddle. Kept sticking rods on arc strike and actually managed to snuff the arc a couple times by going too deep. Not sure if I was tired/frustrated or just having an off night. Everyone in the class is still struggling with this vertical stuff.
6010 root pass, vertical, uphill
6010 root pass, vertical, uphill
20180220_193104.jpg (45.55 KiB) Viewed 3204 times
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Wow! Had the proverbial light bulb come on tonight towards the end of class. Laid down a pretty decent (for me anyways) vertical uphill root pass with 6010. Other than a semi-pooched restart, I'm pretty happy with this one:
20180221_193623.jpg
20180221_193623.jpg (140.03 KiB) Viewed 3116 times
Now I need to start a 7018 vertical uphill thread. Still making dinosaur tails with that stuff...
Lightning
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    Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:55 pm

Lookin good.

Now try it again with a good fixed-shade shield.
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Yep, you're on the right track now :)
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Lightning wrote:Lookin good.

Now try it again with a good fixed-shade shield.
I don't know if I'd go with "good", but I think MinnesotaDave hit it right on the head below: :)
Why fixed shade?
MinnesotaDave wrote:Yep, you're on the right track now :)
And, in what's pretty typical for my life, we start MIG tonight so won't get any more stick practice unless I pull the trigger on my own machine.. At least I know what I did and can likely repeat it after a little practice and (hopefully!) improve from there.
Lightning
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Skiddz wrote: Why fixed shade?
The better you can see the puddle, the better you can weld.
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Lightning wrote:
Skiddz wrote: Why fixed shade?
The better you can see the puddle, the better you can weld.
Got my auto-darkening dialed down to about 8.75. I can go lower, but then it starts getting a little too bright..

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
TheWeldingConnector
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Skiddz wrote:
Lightning wrote:
Skiddz wrote: Why fixed shade?
The better you can see the puddle, the better you can weld.
Got my auto-darkening dialed down to about 8.75. I can go lower, but then it starts getting a little too bright..

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
That seems a bit low to me but everyone has a different light tolerance. I normally use a shade 11 or a shade 10 with dark safety glasses for anything under 150 amps and a 12 for anything over but for most people that is too dark. I find I have a harder time seeing the puddle if I do not have a dark enough shade.
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Skiddz wrote: Why fixed shade?
The better you can see the puddle, the better you can weld.[/quote]Got my auto-darkening dialed down to about 8.75. I can go lower, but then it starts getting a little too bright..

That seems a bit low to me but everyone has a different light tolerance. I normally use a shade 11 or a shade 10 with dark safety glasses for anything under 150 amps and a 12 for anything over but for most people that is too dark. I find I have a harder time seeing the puddle if I do not have a dark enough shade.
Never really thought about going darker. Couldn't hurt to try, right?
Skiddz
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    Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:18 am

Quick follow up. Finished my FCAW 3G cert test last week so have been messing around over the last few classes. Tried some 6010 again last night. Still got the flat and horizontal stuff down (Some of my beads were actually pretty nice!) and then tried vertical uphill (3F) again. Sort of still have it, but it got ugly towards the top. I was hoping to get my 3G SMAW test done but tonight is the last class so that's doubtful...
WeldingJunkie
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Tweake you are right. Hes trying to run uphill is straight DCEN, that's def his issue.
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