Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
homeboy
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From what I can see it appears to be just a flat piece on top. I would use the cutting disk and cut the whole piece out. Precut a matching replacement piece beveled as required to fit. With the existing piece gone you have more room to get in and clean as much as possible and have less chance of junk boiling up thru the weld.
Ant428
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homeboy wrote:From what I can see it appears to be just a flat piece on top. I would use the cutting disk and cut the whole piece out. Precut a matching replacement piece beveled as required to fit. With the existing piece gone you have more room to get in and clean as much as possible and have less chance of junk boiling up thru the weld.
This is exactly what I should have done. Your right. What amperage and rod would you run?
Lightning
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I'd have to see it, but either 6010 or 11, probably 5/32" or whatever I had handy, at the amperage that ran right. (I don't use amperages, I use marks on the heat dials on my welders and my eye, sorry.)
homeboy
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Ant428 wrote:
homeboy wrote:From what I can see it appears to be just a flat piece on top. I would use the cutting disk and cut the whole piece out. Precut a matching replacement piece beveled as required to fit. With the existing piece gone you have more room to get in and clean as much as possible and have less chance of junk boiling up thru the weld.
This is exactly what I should have done. Your right. What amperage and rod would you run?
Thanks, lucky guess. As far as amperage and rod,no clue. Haven't stick welded for years mostly trial and error. Nothing fell apart thou :lol: .
Poland308
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I would run the first pass with 1/8 6010/6011 and then stringer the rest with 3/32 7018.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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Poland308 wrote:I would run the first pass with 1/8 6010/6011 and then stringer the rest with 3/32 7018.
Same for me, and that combo should work with a decent stick welder running on 120volts.

My Thermal Arc 161 does that combo well on 120v.

I would also cut off the old junk and clean some first.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Ant428
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MinnesotaDave wrote:
Poland308 wrote:I would run the first pass with 1/8 6010/6011 and then stringer the rest with 3/32 7018.
Same for me, and that combo should work with a decent stick welder running on 120volts.

My Thermal Arc 161 does that combo well on 120v.

I would also cut off the old junk and clean some first.
1/8 6011 on 110? It maxes at 90 amps on 110. I suppose I can run it on 90
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Ant428 wrote:
MinnesotaDave wrote:
Poland308 wrote:I would run the first pass with 1/8 6010/6011 and then stringer the rest with 3/32 7018.
Same for me, and that combo should work with a decent stick welder running on 120volts.

My Thermal Arc 161 does that combo well on 120v.

I would also cut off the old junk and clean some first.
1/8 6011 on 110? It maxes at 90 amps on 110. I suppose I can run it on 90
My TA 161 tops out at 110 amps on 120v. But I'd probably use my little Bobcat 225 instead anyway - then I'm not limited on rods.

More power is mo' better :D
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Poland308
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I run 1/8 inch 6010 at about 75-80 amps on open butt pipe. I often use the miller 150 stl on 110v
I have more questions than answers

Josh
aland
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Ant428 wrote:Was really dirt in that crack.
Yikes, stay away from dirty cracks! :lol:
Ant428
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aland wrote:
Ant428 wrote:Was really dirt in that crack.
Yikes, stay away from dirty cracks! :lol:

Hahaha.
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