Correct. This is why I do not trust tradesmen just because they have a license. I have corrected more 'master electrician' work like this than I care to admit.
And yes, there is no short, so the breaker will not trip.
Either way, it is corrected now.
agdodge4x4
- agdodge4x4
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New Member
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Joined:Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:08 pm
I still suck at welding, but I have absolutely no trouble starting the arc now. I played around for an hour yesterday and did get it stuck twice, but, over all, it works much better. LOL.
I'm working with light gauge metal purlins, they are crazy thin. I've been working with 6011 rod and it does OK, but I have to dial it down to 60A. I did burn through a few places (scrap stuff). Not sure the best setup for welding purlins. 7018 burned through pretty easy if you f--- around too long.
I'm working with light gauge metal purlins, they are crazy thin. I've been working with 6011 rod and it does OK, but I have to dial it down to 60A. I did burn through a few places (scrap stuff). Not sure the best setup for welding purlins. 7018 burned through pretty easy if you f--- around too long.
Stick welding and thin metal is not fun. I know there are very talented welders on this site that probably don't think twice about it but i run to my tig then mig then fcaw then hot glue...... then stick.
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When do you use JB weld then?Simclardy wrote:Stick welding and thin metal is not fun. I know there are very talented welders on this site that probably don't think twice about it but i run to my tig then mig then fcaw then hot glue...... then stick.
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I've used JB weld on some plastic before and it seems to work okay.
No amount of glue beats welding though, now I got a 3d printer at work to do plastic parts.
Taking over the world, one process at a time.
No amount of glue beats welding though, now I got a 3d printer at work to do plastic parts.
Taking over the world, one process at a time.
if there's a welder, there's a way
Lol. I picked up a plastic welder. Have not had great success yet......Olivero wrote:I've used JB weld on some plastic before and it seems to work okay.
No amount of glue beats welding though, now I got a 3d printer at work to do plastic parts.
Taking over the world, one process at a time.
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Plastic welding effectiveness is highly dependent on the base material though.Olivero wrote:I've done some plastic welding, it rarely works or I'm just bad at it.
Some plastics work a lot better when (re)heating and melting than others. All of them suffer from more or less work-hardening in the base material though as some of the more volatile softeners evaporate from the material and some of the long molecules that make up the plastic break down under the heat.
Polypropylene is one that can usually be welded with heat quite well (although it responds well to chemical 'welding' with something like Methyl benzene/toluene too) but even with this there's the fact that many injection-moulded PP parts are made from a glass (fibres or beads) reinforced material, but PP 'filler' rods are not, so the welds tend to be weaker and more flexible than the rest.
Bye, Arno.
Thank you for that explanation.Arno wrote:Plastic welding effectiveness is highly dependent on the base material though.Olivero wrote:I've done some plastic welding, it rarely works or I'm just bad at it.
Some plastics work a lot better when (re)heating and melting than others. All of them suffer from more or less work-hardening in the base material though as some of the more volatile softeners evaporate from the material and some of the long molecules that make up the plastic break down under the heat.
Polypropylene is one that can usually be welded with heat quite well (although it responds well to chemical 'welding' with something like Methyl benzene/toluene too) but even with this there's the fact that many injection-moulded PP parts are made from a glass (fibres or beads) reinforced material, but PP 'filler' rods are not, so the welds tend to be weaker and more flexible than the rest.
Bye, Arno.
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I don't know if it will help but what helps me against sticking is that spray on Anti spatter stuff. it seemed to cut the sticking way down to about once every 10 to 15 starts now. I was fed up because i couldn't get a good arc going too but now I am back into stick welding a lot more than using my flux core wire welder. maybe try that? it seems to work for me. I happened upon a video and the guy was useing it and said it helped him get good starts so i got some off Amazon dot com,, and the bonus is no spatter stuck to everything that needs to be ground off...lol Just a thought.
ex framie
- ex framie
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Location:Brisbane QLD Land of oz
Get yourself some thicker plate to practice with, minimum 3mm , clean to bare metal and play around with that. Much less frustrating and you will actually run some good looking beads.
Try some different electrodes, 6013, 7018 in 3.2 mm, once you dial the welder and yourself in a bit and you are happy with the results, the step down to thinner rods and thinner material and discover why mig and tig were invented for thin material
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Cheers
Try some different electrodes, 6013, 7018 in 3.2 mm, once you dial the welder and yourself in a bit and you are happy with the results, the step down to thinner rods and thinner material and discover why mig and tig were invented for thin material
.Cheers
Pete
God gave man 2 heads and only enough blood to run 1 at a time. Who said God didn't have a sense of humour.....
God gave man 2 heads and only enough blood to run 1 at a time. Who said God didn't have a sense of humour.....