Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

5/64"
Image
silentneko
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Aug 24, 2013 6:01 pm

What do you mean by that?
Simclardy
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:41 pm
  • Location:
    Cape cod mass

silentneko wrote:What do you mean by that?
Did you really use a5/32? That's a big rod.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
silentneko
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Aug 24, 2013 6:01 pm

Oh, ha, no I meant 3/32" 6013, at 65 amps.
tweake
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 4:53 am
  • Location:
    New Zealand

silentneko wrote:I got half of it done last night. The first 8 plates are welded on. After a lot of playing around I went with 5/32" 6013 at 65 amps.

Here are a few shots. I know they aren't super pretty, but they will work.
:D looks like your getting into it. 8-)
tweak it until it breaks
silentneko
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Aug 24, 2013 6:01 pm

I finished up most of the welding and grinding. Not super pretty, but structurally strong. I got a safety loop to weld on the bottom of the tongue, and then clean and galvanize.
sbaker56
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Feb 08, 2020 12:12 am

I see I'm late to the party, but the galvanization was almost certainly why tig didn't work, for tig welding metal has to be CLEAN, far more clean than it even does for mig welding let alone stick, forget rust, any milscale galvanization etc will cause your puddle to crack and spit, but breathing zinc fumes can also make you REALLY sick if you get to much.

Your machine has pulse which can also make a major difference in controlling your heat and melting the metal without blowing it away.

However I do see your machine doesn't seem to come with a foot pedal for whatever reason, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting one if you don't already. That being said it looks like you've already gotten this project figured out, just ideas for next time.
Post Reply