Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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JAL1639
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    Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:37 pm
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    Waco, TX

I am in my 3rd semester of welding and we started pipe this semester. First was beads on pipe 5G next is beads on pipe 2G. I have some issues in 5G with transitioning to the bottom on down hill and issues on the bottom quarter of the pipe when working uphill.
What techniques can I practice or what works for you? As I have found what works for you might work for me or what works for you ends up looking like hammered guano for me.
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
War Eagle!
romij
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    Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:12 pm

If you are TIG, learn to walk the cup. If stick, get a tight fit up and smear it in evenly !!!
JAL1639
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    Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:37 pm
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    Waco, TX

It is stick right now and I am not yet on root passes. I should be on to roots this next week.
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pcav
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    Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:47 am

Hi Noob, You haven't given the size pipe, whether a backing ring or open butt, or type and size of welding rod.
JAL1639
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    Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:37 pm
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    Waco, TX

For just beads on pipe, does size of pipe matter? 6" diameter
no backing or open root, I am just working on beads on pipe.
3/16" 6010
War Eagle!
rickbreezy
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    Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:08 pm
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    Norfolk, Va

I had the same problems in school. ussually I divide the weld into 4 qaurters in my head, and position my body to be comfortable during each different pass. really, this is the point were you have to become flexible and forget about the "perfect " position, like in your structural fillet, butt and so on welding. pay alot of attention to the position of the rod( as this affects heat and shape). try to keep the rod position the same, and this means alot bending of your body and will make you a much better , more comfortable welder. This is probably new to you onley having welded in a booth right?(unlike in a boiler, pipe rack, underneath a truck, or hanging off of a 10 story building with an I beam up your balls). We have all been there, good luck.

(edit) I also liked to take some dyke pliers to school, cut the rod short enough for just one pass, that way there was less stabbing for an arc strike in a weird position, try it

-Rick
blaw012
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    Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:48 pm

I just started welding a week ago and right out of the gate I started welding pipe use the 6010s to lay the root. stick them right in the gap and establish a puddle move up the gap then come back down the gap filling it in as you go. when you finish the inside should look like it was welded for the inside. grind way pick up some 7018s and lay your filler and cap.
pcav
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    Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:47 am

Noob, There are 2 criticals to be aware of: your heat setting, and angle of the rod to the pipe. Remember that your practice piece is going to get real hot after a few passes; you may have to adjust your heat setting or let the piece cool down some.
Rule of thumb for the angle is 90 deg to the pipe. Coming down toward the bottom quarter, angle your rod toward the puddle, keeping in mind that gravity is working against you.You may also have to "whip" further away from the puddle at times to prevent blobs, "guana".
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