Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
coo1guy
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:34 am
  • Location:
    Switzerland

Just bought my first welder and I'm about to do my first welds, so absolute beginner here.
I went for a 160A AC stick welder.
I read as much as I could to avoid wasting anyone's time, but still have 2 things to doublecheck:

- The user manual says I can plug the clamp and electrode holder alternatively depending on the recommendations of the electrodes.
Does that mean I can use that AC device (that apparently can't do anything else than AC) for DCEP or DCEN?

- My first project will be to make a bike trailer arm out of a square bar of steel by cutting a V, fold it and weld it.
It's a 1 inch x 1 inch (2.5cm x 2.5cm) bar with 1.8mm "walls".
Which rod should I go for (number and diameter)?

Thanks
welder1.jpg
welder1.jpg (84.67 KiB) Viewed 3259 times
welder2.jpg
welder2.jpg (153.33 KiB) Viewed 3259 times
welder3.jpg
welder3.jpg (40.46 KiB) Viewed 3259 times
welder4.jpg
welder4.jpg (38.42 KiB) Viewed 3259 times
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Jan 22, 2014 12:00 am
  • Location:
    Connecticut

Technically you don't have an AC welder. Yes it has AC input, but it doesn't have AC output. Your machine outputs DC current and the polarity is selected by the way you connect the work clamp and the electrode holder. The rods I would recommend for that welder are 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7014. 6011, 6013 and 7014 are technically AC rods but they run fine on DC. 6010 is a DC rod but won't run on most inverters.
Multimatic 255
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Jan 22, 2014 12:00 am
  • Location:
    Connecticut

PS, 6013 is probably a really good rod for your application of 1.8 mm square wall tubing
Multimatic 255
Gdarc21
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Aug 04, 2021 6:44 am

Hi mate, yeah that looks like a dc output. I usually use 7014s for structural, as they are all positional and leave good welds. Slag releases easy too. You may need to clean that steel up a bit. Just a side note if you use a wire wheel wear safety glasses and a face shield, and dont let people not wearing the gear stand around, those things throw wire spears. Just so you know :lol:
Gdarc21
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Aug 04, 2021 6:44 am

welder1.jpg

Just so you know, that symbol next to the stickwelder symbol. The full line with a dash line under it. That is a direct current symbol. A wavy line would be an AC symbol and theres not one on it so it must be full DC.
Bike trailer are awesome, what are you using yours for?
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

That thing is tiny! like my Tooliom 135S stick welder. It will probably only put out around 120A actual measured welding current though. It should be able to run 6011, but that will dig in too much on 1.8mm wall tubing, IMO. 6013/7018/7014 would be the rods to try.
Image
tweake
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Dec 18, 2017 4:53 am
  • Location:
    New Zealand

coo1guy wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:43 am Just bought my first welder and I'm about to do my first welds, so absolute beginner here.
I went for a 160A AC stick welder.
good choice for a beginner. no idea on the brand or if its any good.
but its a good way to learn.

where abouts are you from? pays to put that in as some locals might pop in.

first thing is for you to start running beads. leave the projects until your comfortable at making decent welds.

rods, 6013 is common as mud and will run on anything. there is a trap with them so its not to easy.
a good rod for thin wall tubing as you can run them on negative and reduce blow through.
but pay attention to the rods description as there is tons of different 6013 rods available.
tweak it until it breaks
coo1guy
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:34 am
  • Location:
    Switzerland

Thanks for your answers.
I'll probably give a try to 6013.
Any recommendations on diameter?
Thanks
Gdarc21
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Aug 04, 2021 6:44 am

2.5mm mate. You will want to be in the 60 - 95 amp range. as Tweake said start with beads. Get some scrap and go about 70amps to start and go 5 amps up or down depending on whether it's too hot or too 'cold'.
You could go 3.2mm sticks but 2.5mm will be fine. Anyways the package should have the amp ranges, no matter what sticks you use get your settings on scrap metal tuned in, starting the middle of suggested range and go up or down depending on your machine. Miller welds and lincoln electric have some pretty good pdf's on their webpages. They are very useful and I use them frequently to get apprentices up to speed. Please post photos of Trailer set up when your done.
I am not too far from buying a Larry vs Harry bullit, myself. Just need to justify it with distance/weight :lol:
coo1guy
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:34 am
  • Location:
    Switzerland

The trailer is made for 3 of these green folding boxes we have everywhere in Europe. It's a standard format used for groceries.
trailer.jpg
trailer.jpg (165.78 KiB) Viewed 3199 times
Once I have some practice with welding, my goal is to make a cargo bike like this guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDlnDEXlfm8
Gdarc21
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Aug 04, 2021 6:44 am

That trailer is pretty cool, that bike is too. I have been collecting those sort of bike trailer cargo bike plans for a little bit. Carla cargo used to have a full wiki page, love those guys. Thanks for the link, its very similar to a bullit but with plans......much appreciated. Gotta love open source mentality, I do.
We dont have the most awesome roads in Australia but we are starting to see a healthy bicycle culture here, not just the lycra be all you can buy cycling culture anymore. Its a wonderful age where I can imagine me carrying tools in one of those......one day. :shock:
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

2.0 mm 6013 is what I would recommend.
Image
Post Reply