[chadwarden]

Some of you know by now that I'm an American welding student in Australia who isn't exactly happy with how his TAFE course is structured. From what I've seen of the international students before me, they didn't have much opportunities for welding pipe and I've decided to take it upon myself to learn how to stick weld pipes. Here in Australia, 6010s aren't easy to come by and aren't used When going downhill, what should I be looking for? In other words, what should I be doing to prevent the molten pool from completely flattening out and dripping down? Any help will be much appreciated. Btw, do any of you Aussies think it would be a good idea for me to buy some 6010s and learn how to use those rods on my own? Thanks in advance.

[WerkSpace]

http://www.weldmart.com.au/store/weldin ... d-5p-.html

[chadwarden]

Ahahaha. I'm never going to weldmart again. Firstly, they were never all too helpful when I asked them questions and the grinding discs they gave me were so bad... They were off center and it made my grinder vibrate like crazy. Quality Lincoln Electric electrodes are expensive as hell down here. We're looking at around $70 for 5kg. Plus, all of my nearby welding suppliers are out of 6010s.

[chadwarden]

Well... I recently found out you cant go down hill with 7018s. Even on pipe. Amy advice on welding pipes with 7018s from root to cap? Thanks in advance.

[Otto Nobedder]

Chad, I was sure you would notice that.

Too much glass (silicate flux) on a 7018 for downhill. It gets ahead of your weld and just plain gets in the way.

I've never attempted 7018 root on pipe. I find my amp requirements for the overhead, vertical, and flat vary too much.

In Europe, I've heard it's common to use a remote amp control for stick, which would make 7018 roots much easier, but again, I've never tried it.

-10 rods are the way to go. 6010, 7010, 8010, 9010, all perform similar.

Steve S

[rhfish]

i know this is prob a stupid question but y not 6011? that is what i always used for root are they basically the same as 6010?

[Otto Nobedder]

6010 and 6011 are intended to perform the same. 6010 is a DC rod (DCEP), and 6011 is designed to run on an AC machine.

6011 works fine for this, and there is even a 7018AC rod to back it up with, but you won't see an industrial job that specifies anything but DC rods for their code-required welds in the U.S.

(edited)
Steve S

[chadwarden]

You sure 6010/11 are meant for dcen? Aren't they exclusively dcep?

[Otto Nobedder]

Thanks for catching that, Chad,

I'll edit that post.... 6010 IS DCEP (I've been TIGing almost exclusively for so long, I misspoke. There may also have been beer involved...)

Yes, 6011 runs great DCEP, but is designed for, and works well on, standard AC (60 Hz).

Steve S

[rhfish]

lol i was gonna say cause thats all ive used on pipe

[Aleksi86]

Hi here in Finland we dont allso not use 6010 havent seen any.. When I use remote control when sticking pipe I will use biger Amps to start that 7018 rod (most time 2,5mm) but immediately lowering Amps so that i can hear that sound of rod burning inside of the pipe. Good way to learn to use that remote is to practise at V groove plate and compare that welds looks to how much you tweek that remote button. I did my remote a litle mark so i can feel it my finger when i have lowest Amps what will still burn that rod. (But no stick glove on remote control hand ) Hope this helps some.. Aleksi

[jwmacawful]

there is a forum for pipewelders of all kinds and has some great pictures of what a properly executed pipe weld looks like. it also has some awesome welding rig pics. the site is called "rigwelders.com" they aren't as polite as this forum and will flame your a$$ for irrelevant comments or requests like asking for contact numbers without a proper intro.