Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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"Those who can't do, teach."

Charles Schultz, via "Peanuts" cartoons.
lazerbeam
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Thanks Steve.....lol. Chevy, have you done open roots on plate prior to working on pipe? That is the time when my students learn how much land and gap they need, how many amps to run and how hard to bury the rod. That way, when you go to pipe all you have to do different is change the angle of the rod as you progress.
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:lol:

lazerbeam, no offense intended! I'm sure you've seen it around you, and 65chevyc20 cited a perfect example.

Steve S
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Yes, I have seen so much around me that I wonder where all the misinformation comes from, not to mention the lack of skill.

The way I teach pipe is a process that starts with open root on plate and then padding some beads around pipe in 2G, 5G and 6G and then putting the two together by putting in a root then fill and cap in the different positions. And if an instructor can't demonstrate it properly how in the world can he expect his students to do it.
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So should a man use the "bury rod" techinique on a 1g plate? thanks John
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AKweldshop wrote:So should a man use the "bury rod" techinique on a 1g plate? thanks John
I can't really answer that... It's a Ford/Chevy thing.

Some people will always do better at one method than another. Whip-and-pause works beautifully for many folk, bury-rod also works great for many, and (In my opinion) being able to do either as the situation warrants is the best position to be in.

If you want to learn either technique (or both), 1G practice is cheap compared to pipe coupons. lazerbeam's approach to teaching pipe is sound for either method.

Steve S
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I would definitely learn to do both. You may run into a bad fit-up or something may cause a problem and too much keyhole will open and then you will have to whip 2 or 3 times to get everything under control then go back to burying the rod. Burying the rod for the root is easier on the welder if you have to run several root passes.
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Otto Nobedder wrote:
AKweldshop wrote:So should a man use the "bury rod" techinique on a 1g plate? thanks John
I can't really answer that... It's a Ford/Chevy thing.

Some people will always do better at one method than another. Whip-and-pause works beautifully for many folk, bury-rod also works great for many, and (In my opinion) being able to do either as the situation warrants is the best position to be in.

If you want to learn either technique (or both), 1G practice is cheap compared to pipe coupons. lazerbeam's approach to teaching pipe is sound for either method.

Steve S
I don't believe I'm quoting myself, but...

It just occurred to me to point out, you can put your plates in ANY position, to practice whatever part of the 6G troubles you.

Steve S
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Otto Nobedder wrote:
Otto Nobedder wrote:
AKweldshop wrote:So should a man use the "bury rod" techinique on a 1g plate? thanks John
I can't really answer that... It's a Ford/Chevy thing.

Some people will always do better at one method than another. Whip-and-pause works beautifully for many folk, bury-rod also works great for many, and (In my opinion) being able to do either as the situation warrants is the best position to be in.

If you want to learn either technique (or both), 1G practice is cheap compared to pipe coupons. lazerbeam's approach to teaching pipe is sound for either method.

Steve S
I don't believe I'm quoting myself, but...

It just occurred to me to point out, you can put your plates in ANY position, to practice whatever part of the 6G troubles you.

Steve S

Thanks Steve, that's a simply great :idea: thanks for sharing :D
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Otto Nobedder wrote:

When it's "just so", almost all the sparks fly inside the pipe, and it sounds like a hive of angry bees are in the pipe. Also, when it's "just so", it works almost identical uphill as down. For me, it took some experimentation and critique, but once I got it... I can "show off" by raising my hood and talking to you (not advised on a test or critical weld) without breaking the arc.
passes, as the rod does all the work for you and you only have to hold it right.

Steve S
Hey Steve, Is this what you mean "just so"?
John
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uN6PbF-s71U
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Vince51 wrote:Open root 6010 is hard to explain without a video. I like using a circular motion in the keyhole. Helps break down the landings evenly and prevents the rod from finger nailing. Watch for the flame shooting through the keyhole and keep a steady travel speed. If the keyhole gets to big (2 rod diameters) dont panic just circle out on the bevel more and speed up or STOP. I hardly ever whip. Overhead roots you want the keyhole to stay small and all sparks should go through. 1/8" rod should run good from 70 to 80 amps. 1/8" gap and landing. Grind a ramp on your tacks. Restart about a cm behind your stops. If your using a newer machine increasing the arc force setting will help you keep the arc going. Turn arc force all the way down for low hydrogen rods tho. Hope this helps.

Vince. P.s. Lincoln 5p+ is my preference of rod.
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/pip ... -6010.html

Here's the Video
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AKweldshop wrote:
Otto Nobedder wrote:

When it's "just so", almost all the sparks fly inside the pipe, and it sounds like a hive of angry bees are in the pipe. Also, when it's "just so", it works almost identical uphill as down. For me, it took some experimentation and critique, but once I got it... I can "show off" by raising my hood and talking to you (not advised on a test or critical weld) without breaking the arc.
passes, as the rod does all the work for you and you only have to hold it right.

Steve S
Hey Steve, Is this what you mean "just so"?
John
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uN6PbF-s71U
For some reason, I can't get the video to play. I'll try it later.

Reading the comments, though, tells me, yeah, he's got it "just so".

After the "Freddy Mercury" comment, I've GOT to see this!

Steve S
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It work's for me. I don't know, might give it another try, "weird"
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Tried it again, and it worked.

Not bad, but he's got a spot or two at the bottom... That's why I said I won't do it on a critical weld.

He's also got a lot of spatter inside the pipe. I'm not sure why, unless this was actually 6011 on AC. Or maybe it's the pipe size. I can show one I did on 10"(?..been a while) pipe... , without any visible spatter. I think I've posted it before.

The guy knows what he's doing, though.

Steve S
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Just thought you'd get a kick out of it, no other reason than that....
Supposedly he's vacating his youtube channel, so my link probably won't work much longer.
Anyway,
John
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I did get a kick, that was fun to watch.

The video also showed very well what I was talking about, with the fire inside the pipe, and I appreciate it.

It'll give others an example to support the idea.

The guy is a character, too! 8-)

Steve S
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You might want to watch the rest of his video's before he pulls them off????
He's got some good stuff....
John
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