Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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hacadacalopolis
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I can run the root-Sometimes great... consistency lacks, But what I cannot get around to being comfortable on is this dreadful overhead>vertical transition cap. 6010/7018 consumables

At our school we are welding 6" sch40 carbon w/ 30 degree bevel. Not a whole lot of pipe to fill, so after the root I am usually running a filler and cap combo. Do not have pics yet, I'll prob try and get some today.

I cannot find a comfortable way of being on the floor with the overhead cap 6-3, 6-9 positions. I have a 10 degree (give or take) push angle, as straight as I can get it but yet I choke out on the bottom cap. Undercut in some areas, breaking repetition, long arc, U name it.

I have recently tried hanging on the pipe support and trying to one hand it bottom up. still unsure
I could really use some advice on this position for laying a good cap.
hacadacalopolis
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So once again any advice is appreciated, I'm not doing that great with stick pipe.

Start off with root, make sure you are looking at 2nd pipe weld.I did this run without feathering any tacks(was just passing time), and got some lack of sidewall fusion... But main thin was that I did not stick and have to restart, first time in about 10 tries! Good grief!
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Next is cap, I veered off near top, but I felt I improved in some areas.
Have a look; starting with top
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These may not be the best photos, this is iphone
I know the root may be hard to look at just bear with me.
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hacadacalopolis,
I do not think you are doing as bad as you think. The root looks good, besides the tacks and very little inconsistency. Your cap is very acceptable, especially for practice. The best advice for the bottom or 6 o'clock is do your hardest side first. Take the 6010 root pass, if you do the side you have the most difficulty first and start at 6, then on the pass from the other side you can start at say 4 or 8 and cover your sin and burn the root in at the same time. Same goes for the cover pass, although you will have to be a little careful since you can only grind your start/stop, but at least you might be able to cover and wiggles in the welds.
To help out with other advice, we would need your amps and electrode size.
-Jonathan
hacadacalopolis
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Right, root is ran between 75-80 amps. 6010 1/8"
cap/fill(I have been combining on 5g) 80-85 amps. 7018 3/32"
This is routine, I have used a 7018 1/8" rod around 105-110 amps, sorta liked it, but really stuck with what we normally have overstock at the school.

The root I always find it difficult to get just right with sidewall fusion, Making sure the rod angle is straight, Even though my hand tends to naturally give in either way. Plus I find it difficult to look directly like you could with plate... Sigh :|
hacadacalopolis
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My landing is average 3/32- 1/8, More so often closer to 1/8"

Could I be sticking because of this? I usually blame it on a poor fitup, due to what we can only work with.
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hacadacalopolis wrote:My landing is average 3/32- 1/8, More so often closer to 1/8"

Could I be sticking because of this? I usually blame it on a poor fitup, due to what we can only work with.
Are you keeping your 6010's in a rod oven? If so, stop.

Cellulosic rods work best (stick less) when they're as damp as the air. Not wet, mind you, but at ambient humidity.

It does make a difference.

This is just a wild guess, without details, but I've seen it happen many times, even on industrial jobs that should know better.

Steve S
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If your 6010's stick, get a new can....

You can dunk them in water, but, they won't weld as good as new ones....

~John
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
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Otto Nobedder wrote:
hacadacalopolis wrote:My landing is average 3/32- 1/8, More so often closer to 1/8"

Could I be sticking because of this? I usually blame it on a poor fitup, due to what we can only work with.
Are you keeping your 6010's in a rod oven? If so, stop.

Cellulosic rods work best (stick less) when they're as damp as the air. Not wet, mind you, but at ambient humidity.

It does make a difference.

This is just a wild guess, without details, but I've seen it happen many times, even on industrial jobs that should know better.

Steve S
Wow Steve, that is a new one on me. I have never heard of anyone putting their 6010 in the rod oven. Interesting.

hacadacalopolis,
What machine are you using? I am guessing Steve is correct, but if they are not being put in a oven and you are sticking, it could just be the machine/lack of hood time. Meaning; if you are running an older machine, they generally done have any "hot start" that will allow anyone to strike a rod and burn. If you are just starting on stick, it can also be something you will just have to work on and will get better at as time goes on.
Personally I would go closer to the 3/32" land, but that is just how I like it.
-Jonathan
hacadacalopolis
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They're (6010) kept in just a rod storage container, not an oven.
The low hydrogen rods are the only kept in our small oven

Right now machine is the miller 304 xmt.
Dig is usually 50-60, lower sometimes for fill or cover passes.

I did a really flush root today- still noticing rod angle, and cleaning(sanding) inner diameter of wall helps maybe a tad.

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Sorry not a great pic
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