Please help a noob.

wirelessrat · Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:39 am

I am trying to weld some lower cab corners on an old 89 Chevy silverado. I am using a 7109 or a 6011 (cant really make it out) rod/stick with which will burn a hole in about anything I touch with this thing. Can anyone tell me what rod I need to get to pull off this tedious weld and the amp setting. I would appreciate it....I am burning holes in everything and it frustrating to no end.

Attached an image of the welder.

Thank You,
The Rat

dustelf · Tue Nov 16, 2010 7:48 am

who told you bodywork can be done with stick? Mig or fluxcore or oxy.

jpence38 · Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:39 am

You are goimg to have an extremely difficult time making the repair with a stick welder, if it's even possible. You need at the very least a small mig machine to be moderately successful. If you must use stick, use the smallest 6013 rod you can, And GOOD LUCK

wirelessrat · Tue Nov 16, 2010 10:22 am

no one told me I could..."I'm new! I dont know what I'm doing!"-Joe Dirt-Drilling for Oil

I bought this welder about 8 years ago and thought it would burn up to a certain thickness and did not know materials must be at least XX for this welder to not disintegrate the metal/material.

I was hoping the rods I was using were simply too big so I thought I would ask the experts here.

I did see some aluminum welding rods or sticks and was wondering if anyone had an opinion on those for my application.

Thanks, I will grab a few 6013s and see what happens...if I could even get 10-15 good spots on each cab corner I would be happy, but as I am currently setup I am afraid to even begin until I can get as close to optimal rod and settting as I can with this welder.

rickbreezy · Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:42 pm

Dont let these guys get you down. body work will be harder with a stick welder, but what do you think people did before mig welders huh?

If you have a harbour frieght nearby, go there and pick up some 1/16 welding rods. i think you should use 6011, but a halfass substitute is 6013(this rod will be easier to weld with but it is difficult to produce good welds). set the machine at 60 amps, and go up rom there.

also, dont try to run a long bead on the thin body sheet metal, just go for a series of closely placed spot welds, or whatever you need.

!And flame on!

hope this helps,

-Rick

BurninRod · Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:46 am

try a whipping motion, start your puddle then flick your rod forward about a half inch or so and then back to about 1/2 way through your puddle without losing your arc.. pretty tricky at first but once u get the hang of it its not bad at all. the first puddle should cool by the time you get back in because 6011 freezes fast. result should look like a stack of times tipped over. if your still burning holes then just do a series of a bunch of tacks. this will be ugly though.
if you've got a cutting torch you can use it as an oxy-acetylene welder.. just go buy some steel rod and do it up with that. figure that would be your best bet for really thin metal.

wirelessrat · Fri Nov 19, 2010 1:31 am

Thanks for the input guys. I think I am now using 3/32" (6011) that have been stored since I joined the military in 2002, so that is part of my prob it seems. I even burned a hole in some new exhaust and muffler pipes, but did get the pipes tacked securely, now just fill in the small holes later. Dang I could do skyscraper demolition with this welder/cutting torch

Now that I put the new exhaust on I have an old muffler and can practice with.

Not too worried about the look of the welds as I will have to bondo over the welds regardless of how they look. I am really concerned with getting several good spots that will securely hold the lower cab corners in place.

What is the difference in the low and high setting on this old welder I have?

dustelf · Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:27 am

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/e ... ode-chart/

you have a chart here, it says that only 6010 can be used with an AC machine like you have
it also says they don't make it in 1/16 , maybe you can find from other store

some time ago i did some bodywork on a Fleetside, the damn thing had more rust then steel, i remember the back corners of the cabin to be thicker then other parts(this is what you want welded???) , so maybe it can be done with a 1/16 but not easy.

jpence38 · Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:39 am

dustelf wrote:http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/e ... ode-chart/

you have a chart here, it says that only 6010 can be used with an AC machine like you have
it also says they don't make it in 1/16 , maybe you can find from other store

Am not trying to offend you, but the chart says that all rod can be used with that machine except 6010.

jpence38 · Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:43 am

rickbreezy wrote:Dont let these guys get you down. body work will be harder with a stick welder, but what do you think people did before mig welders huh?

If you have a harbour frieght nearby, go there and pick up some 1/16 welding rods. i think you should use 6011, but a halfass substitute is 6013(this rod will be easier to weld with but it is difficult to produce good welds).

Just because you cant weld with 6013 doesn't classify it as a half ass substitute. Sorry for your lack of skill.

dustelf · Sat Nov 20, 2010 2:01 pm

jpence38 wrote: Am not trying to offend you, but the chart says that all rod can be used with that machine except 6010.

damn, i get things wrong sometimes , you're right.

wirelessrat · Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:19 pm

I found some 6011 1/16" and some 6013 5/64 at TSC, but have not received the cab corners yet. I think I will be able to pull this off with the 5/64...I will try making very short runs...damn I need to get this thing done soon

I am sure I will have to work them with the hand grinder and bondo after the weld...might end up looking like a spiral binder notebook.

shadey · Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:29 pm

I have a similar problem but noticed that eastwood do a stitch welder attachment for arc welders. It inverts the electricity and works at about 40amps and is used in the UK for car restoration (I am told) I am a beginner too and have posted on this site for some info.

anthonyfawley · Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:08 pm

jpence38 wrote:
rickbreezy wrote:Dont let these guys get you down. body work will be harder with a stick welder, but what do you think people did before mig welders huh?

If you have a harbour frieght nearby, go there and pick up some 1/16 welding rods. i think you should use 6011, but a halfass substitute is 6013(this rod will be easier to weld with but it is difficult to produce good welds).
Just because you cant weld with 6013 doesn't classify it as a half ass substitute. Sorry for your lack of skill.

now thats just some funny shit

wirelessrat · Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:07 pm

anthonyfawley wrote:
jpence38 wrote:
rickbreezy wrote:Dont let these guys get you down. body work will be harder with a stick welder, but what do you think people did before mig welders huh?

If you have a harbour frieght nearby, go there and pick up some 1/16 welding rods. i think you should use 6011, but a halfass substitute is 6013(this rod will be easier to weld with but it is difficult to produce good welds).
Just because you cant weld with 6013 doesn't classify it as a half ass substitute. Sorry for your lack of skill.
now thats just some funny shit

I find it funny a flame has arisen over 6011 and 6013...but I am clearly a novice who does not know the difference, so....

I did read something about reversing polarity, but did not read into it enough to try it out.

I do, however, appreciate all the input.

jpence38 · Sun Nov 21, 2010 10:36 pm

The trick to it is making very small welds, practically a continuous line of tack welds. You do not want to put any more heat in the parts you are welding than is absolutely necessary. Too much heat and you'll find yourself trying to pull out or push in the expanded part of sheet metal. Good luck