[grafted]

I would go with the guys that said 7018 3/32 , this is a hard rod to beat and I would also include 6011 in both 1/8 and 3/32.
Many times I use a 6011 and cap it with 7018 and you get the best properties of both rods.
Tom

[xryan]

You can cover just about 99% of your welding with 6011 & 7018. If you're not welding oil pipelines or bridges don't worry about storing rod in an oven. Buy 5lb boxes. Throw leftovers & some dessicant in a rod holder with a rubber gasket, or make your own with PVC pipe. If you're really worried, dry them out in her oven when she's not looking before using.

[AKweldshop]

7018 80% of the time, 6010/7024 the other 20%.


IMO

[Grburns09]

I am a beginner/hobbyist and I like 7014 a lot. Specifically, I buy Pinnacle Alloys 7014, 3/32" from my local welding supply store. I have tried Linciln's Fleetweld 47, but I like the Pinnacle rod better. It runs great on AC, but I just got a DC welder, and it runs even better on DCEP.

I have tried 7018, but I don't have an oven, and I usually get visible pinholes at the start of the weld. So it's 7014 for me!

[Tataw Obi]

I may not have used all the different types of welding sticks,but to my experience,6013 is fair for general welding and for solid welded joints,I recommend 7018, precisely OK48 type

[Bandit30019]

7018 is the rod of choice do to the looks and strength of the welder. I stick welding all the time and never had any problems.
I recommend lincoln xcalaber there's a big difference in the brand of rods you use.

[DennisCA]

If you are an occasional welder and want to get down to one rod, my vote would be 7018-3/32

This is what I am and what I use, though I also got 20lbs of cheapo 1/8 7018 rods with my welder when I bought it used. I think the bigger ones are easier to weld with. Not sure if this is just a personal quirk or if bigger is better?

[Lightning]

I like 1/8" 6010 and 7018 but I don't use any inverter machines, just transformers and an engine drive. YMMV.

[weldin mike 27]

In Australia, We have 6012s they are nice to use and can run vertical down. The slag freezes quickly and doesn't get in the way like what happens with some people and 6013s.

Mick

[MosquitoMoto]

In Australia, We have 6012s they are nice to use and can run vertical down. The slag freezes quickly and doesn't get in the way like what happens with some people and 6013s.

Mick

Mick, by this do you mean Satincraft 13's?

I'm not much of a stick welder but these are my 'go to' rod. They just seem to behave no matter what you do.


Kym

[weldin mike 27]

Cigweld Satin craft 13s are 6013, blue flux as you know. which give the associated slag swirling problem. Cigwelds 6012 are called 12xp and have a red flux. One little number wouldnt seem like a major change, but its a biggy.

[MosquitoMoto]

Cigweld Satin craft 13s are 6013, blue flux as you know. which give the associated slag swirling problem. Cigwelds 6012 are called 12xp and have a red flux. One little number wouldnt seem like a major change, but its a biggy.

Thanks Mick.

Funny, I'm using inverters and the 6013 (Satincraft 13) rods really do work a treat. In fact I had my first ever perfect slag peel/lift off using these rods.

Which of course makes me eager to try the 6012/12XP's because if they are even better I'd be delighted.

Don't do a lot of stick welding but when I do it's nice to be able to just speak sternly to the slag and watch it lift off with nary a scratch needed.

Thanks for the tip.



Kym

[weldin mike 27]

Kym I'm glad that you have no problem with slag. One issue to tick off the list of welding issues. (That said, satincraft 13s are about as good as it gets.) Strangely i have had nothing but trouble with cigweld 13s (Thirteen S) blue and white stripe. Always seem terrible.

[Drunken Moose]

I bought some 7018 3/32 from one LWS (which i won't be going back to) and get home to find out they were not hermetically sealed. Didn't feel like heading back out so went forward anyways. They stuck and sputtered and were a PITA to start up, but once the heat got in them they ran not bad. I wasn't worried since it was non-critical welds. Reconditioning them requires somewhere between 500-600F. I've heard of some using a kitchen oven, but most don't go that high, and not sure what type of smell you may get (I often roast oak and dry grains for malt for my other hobby, so they SOH doesn't even ask what i'm up to anymore.

I like the idea mentioned above of a sealed container with desicant packets. I would imagine if you have one of those home vacuum sealing things that for long term storage one of those with some desicant would work great as well.

Most guys on farms and stuff will keep 6010 (6011) on hand since as mentioned it is great for blasting through rust, paints, etc so if your repairs or small jobs are going to be a lot of "dirty" metal, that is something to keep in mind.

Take my advice with a grain of salt . . . i'm still green . . . tons of book smart, but have a ways to go with real world experience that others here have.