Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
griff
- griff
-
New Member
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Tue Feb 16, 2016 11:41 pm
-
Location:Just East of Huntsville, AL
I've got some stainless to weld shortly that is going to be a pain to try to backpurge. I've heard about using solar flux but have never tried it. How well does it work? Which one do you guys use?
Solar Flux B is what is designated for Stainless. Easy to apply, provides great protection. Difficult as S*@( to remove. It turns into a very hard, glass like slag deposit on the backside. It doesn't "wash off", just so you know. Cheapest I have found it is weldingsupply.com for the 1lb can.
+ hard to remove
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
The glass like deposit is hard to remove, but it does work well though to prevent the sugaring on the back side of welds. Any 'non activated' SolarFlux that's left does wash off with plain water.
I use it fairly regularly on 304/316 car exhaust pipe work, so I'm not bothered by the residue it leaves on the inside as it's quite smooth, so (unlike the sugaring 'lumps') it poses little to no problem for the gas flow and kicking up unwanted turbulence inside the exhaust. Would be a different story for sanitary welds..
I still tend to back-purge in many cases, but for some applications I do grab some SolarFlux and it can be a big help.
I like how a little goes a long way.. I normally use ony a small cup and use a little 99.9% methanol to get it into a liquid form and then use a small brush to coat the seams/joins and small area around them. Doesn't need much.. Then just let it dry to a light grey 'clay' like colour and you're set. It can be left in that state for quite some time so you can prep more tacked-up pieces for later full welding.
And it's really a flux as you can also use it (whan applied to both sides of a weld) for oxy-acetylene welding stainless...
Bye, Arno.
I use it fairly regularly on 304/316 car exhaust pipe work, so I'm not bothered by the residue it leaves on the inside as it's quite smooth, so (unlike the sugaring 'lumps') it poses little to no problem for the gas flow and kicking up unwanted turbulence inside the exhaust. Would be a different story for sanitary welds..
I still tend to back-purge in many cases, but for some applications I do grab some SolarFlux and it can be a big help.
I like how a little goes a long way.. I normally use ony a small cup and use a little 99.9% methanol to get it into a liquid form and then use a small brush to coat the seams/joins and small area around them. Doesn't need much.. Then just let it dry to a light grey 'clay' like colour and you're set. It can be left in that state for quite some time so you can prep more tacked-up pieces for later full welding.
And it's really a flux as you can also use it (whan applied to both sides of a weld) for oxy-acetylene welding stainless...
Bye, Arno.
- MosquitoMoto
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:38 am
-
Location:The Land Down Under
I've used Solar B flux with pretty good results.
I'll very likely be using it again shortly on a motorcycle exhaust that would prove a real pain to purge.
The one thing I will add in addition to Arno's great wrap up is that Solar B still demands good technique and isn't great for stainless learners. When I first used it I was hanging around too long and running too hot and the result was that the flux 'blew out' on the inside of the pipe, meaning normal nasty sugaring then ensued.
If you are a competent stainless welder then I feel Solar B is a pretty good alternative.
Kym
I'll very likely be using it again shortly on a motorcycle exhaust that would prove a real pain to purge.
The one thing I will add in addition to Arno's great wrap up is that Solar B still demands good technique and isn't great for stainless learners. When I first used it I was hanging around too long and running too hot and the result was that the flux 'blew out' on the inside of the pipe, meaning normal nasty sugaring then ensued.
If you are a competent stainless welder then I feel Solar B is a pretty good alternative.
Kym
Return to “Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding”
Jump to
- Introductions & How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Welcome!
- ↳ Member Introductions
- ↳ How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Moderator Applications
- Welding Discussion
- ↳ Metal Cutting
- ↳ Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding
- ↳ Mig and Flux Core - gas metal arc welding & flux cored arc welding
- ↳ Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding
- ↳ Welding Forum General Shop Talk
- ↳ Welding Certification - Stick/Arc Welding, Tig Welding, Mig Welding Certification tests - Welding Tests of all kinds
- ↳ Welding Projects - Welding project Ideas - Welding project plans
- ↳ Product Reviews
- ↳ Fuel Gas Heating
- Welding Tips & Tricks
- ↳ Video Discussion
- ↳ Wish List
- Announcements & Feedback
- ↳ Forum News
- ↳ Suggestions, Feedback and Support
- Welding Marketplace
- ↳ Welding Jobs - Industrial Welding Jobs - Pipe Welding Jobs - Tig Welding Jobs
- ↳ Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade Used Welding Equipment
- Welding Resources
- ↳ Tradeshows, Seminars and Events
- ↳ The Welding Library
- ↳ Education Opportunities