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408cheytac
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Thank you for the info I think I found my key setup. First I added a makeshift gas dam that makes a valley where I can contain the gas. I haven't been able to fine tune the pulse function to my pace so for now I will just stick to flexing the pedal. That gave me much more heat control and a better looking weld. Then I added a piece of aluminum angle to act as a jig for the stainless sheets and it came out pretty damn well. Next time I get a chance I will add pictures of the test welds. Now as long as I dont F*** up the actual project I think I will be in the clear and pictures will follow.

Last question.... I have never intentionally tried to preserve discoloration on any stainless work so do you think it would be a good idea to maybe put some clear coat over the stainless to "preserve it"?

Thanks!
cj737
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The color will remain unless you subject the case to extreme temps, or brush it with a stainless brush to remove the coloring and polish it up. Because stainless doesn't oxidize, you don't need to "clear coat" it to preserve it.

The best thing you can do to help yourself get good color along the bead (including your setup changes) is to do short runs. Force yourself to stop and let the pieces cool. The accumulating heat will change the color the longer you weld and the last segment will be much hotter than your beginning.

Do you have any intention to weld the inside corner? Its probably completely unnecessary, but if you do, understand that heat will effect the color of the outside bead. Just stating it in case you were thinking it, and had not considered it.
Poland308
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I used to do SS floor sump tanks. They were always 16 or 18 ga. Those were outside corners no filler no pulse scratch start. I used to like to over lap one side all the way to the edge of the other sheet. Just focused the heat on the overlapping side and it would melt in a nice rounded corner.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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Josh, sounds pretty much how I did the tank I posted some pages back. Works very well when fit is good.

Max, thanks. I'll try those settings next time I'm on some SS. You did use filler on the last post right? ,040 I guess?
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5th Street Fab wrote:
.....nope I didn't use any filler

.... Which is why I said it's easier to get good color without filler.
I don't argue about that, have the same opinion based on my own experience on thin SS. Not been using pulse much but want to get better understanding of it's capabilities.

Know the camera can play some tricks with the eye sometimes but your beads looked too high for not using filler.
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AndersK wrote:
5th Street Fab wrote:
.....nope I didn't use any filler

.... Which is why I said it's easier to get good color without filler.
I don't argue about that, have the same opinion based on my own experience on thin SS. Not been using pulse much but want to get better understanding of it's capabilities.

Know the camera can play some tricks with the eye sometimes but your beads looked too high for not using filler.
I think its just because it's thin. I'll run one with filler and show it.

Personally I think there's a time and place for every technique. Pulse is nice because it's fast and helps bite the edges. Manual pulse is nice for deeper pen., more control and nice bead appearance. I use filler for more critical things like brackets and mounts. Anything over 16 gauge I'd probably use filler and not fusion.

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408cheytac
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Here are the test pieces I have the the one farthest to the right is just me controlling the foot pedal on an aluminium chill block the middle is the same thing but with gas dams and the furthest one is everything but with pulse ( not set right). Thank you for all the help!
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408cheytac wrote:Here are the test pieces I have the the one farthest to the right is just me controlling the foot pedal on an aluminium chill block the middle is the same thing but with gas dams and the furthest one is everything but with pulse ( not set right). Thank you for all the help!
Looking much better! Middle one looks real nice!

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Farmwelding
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...
Thank you Steve- i just wanted to take the time to say I appreciate all the work you do to moderate this forum! Keep up the good work sir-everything you do is appreciated here.
I am very interested to see how this build comes out to. I may have to build one someday if I decide to get a laptop or put it to another use.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
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Since I see all parties have seemed to agree to a quiet resolution, I've cleaned up what I think are the last remnants of the S#!tstorm.

We'll just let sleeping dogs lie...

Steve S
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I apologize for my pissing contest. Here's some pics and settings and techniques I used today that should help for 16 gauge also however you'll need more amperage.

This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

Image

Pulse at 10 background 10 on time 30ish amps 5-7 seconds pulse and a very fast pace.Image

This is with 1/16" filler. Same method I used before I tack and add a small amount of filler let off the pedal move forward and tack and add filler again. Very simple and effective just slow.


Image

Tack move tack method
ImageImage
Just remember fit up is key especially with fusion welds.

More of the tack move tack method.
Image

Anyways I apologize and I hope this helps. I'm not posting these for any other reason then to help.

Your well on your way already and since you have chill blocks that will help a lot.

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408cheytac
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The piece I will be welding is going to have a continuous weld that will be 19" vertically. Obviously I plan to tac a lot but I was wondering if I should alternate my welds on each side until they meet in the center? So I would weld say 3" on the top and then 3" on the bottom right away, wait for them to cool then repeat until they meet. Or will I be ok if I just take my time for cooling and just run right up bottom to top?
cj737
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Is it possible to orient the pieces horizontally while you weld them? If so, you will not have to battle the heat so much and you should get a more consistent weld. 19" is pretty long in my opinion but you can if the heat control is right. If it were me, I'd start in the middle and weld to the corners splitting it into 2 beads. That can give you a nice tie-in and change the bead directions. (Flip the piece end-for-end so you are welding in the same direction physically).
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5th Street Fab wrote: This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

Image
The only thing about this is the crater (or butt hole) that is left when you snap off the pedal, I personally wouldn't like that and the method seems to be slow, more then one way to get the job done and each of us might approach this differently, and that's a good thing about learning what technique others use.
Richard
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LtBadd wrote:
5th Street Fab wrote: This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

Image
The only thing about this is the crater (or butt hole) that is left when you snap off the pedal, I personally wouldn't like that and the method seems to be slow, more then one way to get the job done and each of us might approach this differently, and that's a good thing about learning what technique others use.
Agreed it is very slow and no one likes craters. But it's just another way to get pretty colors with none of the fancy stuff (big cups and chill blocks).

Here's the same technique but dabbing with 040 filler Image

And for thin stainless I use .040 tungsten it's just what I learned on so I'm used to it. It's easy to start at low amperage.

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exnailpounder
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Pic doesn't really show it but every dime has an iridescence like boa constrictor scales and every color from gold to salmon. 16ga. 304 SS, 347 .035 filler, 3/32" 2% lanthanated , 1pps, 50/50 on/off time, #8 gas lens, 16cfh. First 2"..no filler, pedal pulse= flat burned in bead.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
exnailpounder
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I think the 347 shows better color than the 316. I'll try Inconel and see what that does.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
408cheytac
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I started welding it today and well one of the pieces is 1/16" off so I can't do an autogenous weld on one end. I had to bridge the two sides and add some filler where it was off but that put a lot of heat in and lost the color for 2". Btw I am welding in the flat. It does not look great for what I wanted but if I have to wire brush it then that will be the new look.
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You can always wire-brush it (a clean brass brush will take the color off without scratching the surface), then bring the color back by welding back over it, no filler, with just enough heat to form a shallow puddle. Using pulse if you have it, or a step-pause motion will keep the stack-of-dimes look. Use the chill block again to avoid adding distortion.

On the other hand, It'll look good brushed, too.

Steve S
408cheytac
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First fit up. The welds just look brown from a far so they will be brushed and then I hope to get a nice reflective finish after this.... Pretty ugly for people who don't like welding. :lol:
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exnailpounder
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Try a little powdered Barkeepers Friend. It will take the color out back to a natural stainless look and will also take out the HAZ colors without scratching. Don't use a scrubby, just a rag or paper towel. Works great.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
cj737
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I was so wrapped up in reading your thread, I never stopped to think about what you were making exactly. I am dubious that choosing stainless was a good idea for your case. Stainless has pretty bad thermal properties in terms of dispersing its heat. So all the heat generated internally by your components, will stay confined within this case, and the case will get hot and trap the heat.

These are very bad situations for a computer. Perhaps you have considered this already and have a water-cooled solution planned, or other type of auxiliary cooling, but internal fans will not solve this issue. Just putting that out there- :?
408cheytac
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cj737 wrote:I was so wrapped up in reading your thread, I never stopped to think about what you were making exactly. I am dubious that choosing stainless was a good idea for your case. Stainless has pretty bad thermal properties in terms of dispersing its heat. So all the heat generated internally by your components, will stay confined within this case, and the case will get hot and trap the heat.

These are very bad situations for a computer. Perhaps you have considered this already and have a water-cooled solution planned, or other type of auxiliary cooling, but internal fans will not solve this issue. Just putting that out there- :?

That's what I am testing now. The front of the case has a 1" gap between the chassis and the stainless where there is a 200mm fan with a duct that takes in air. The top and bottom of the front stainless are open. The 1" black cap ontop is actually hollow and has vents And the rear of the case is open with exhaust fans. I don't have liquid cooling because the case was already operating 10- 15 degrees c below the standard temp for my 8core amd cpu. Also my gtx 1070 is helped by a pivoting 140mm fan for exhaust mid case. I have a monitor on it for now. I will run it for a day and compare temps. :geek:
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cj737
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Well at least your welds are looking lovely :) I hope it works out for you. If not, switch to aluminum; its a better material for what you're after.

Something else you do possibly do is to drill/punch holes in the side panels to increase the venting especially since you have a motorized fan in there. And free air space around, below and above that case to provide cool air flow is pretty important.

Best of luck, its looking really cool!
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just browsed through all the replies and everything seems covered, so sorry if I repeat anything... most of all the work I do on the job is stainless, and corner welds are pretty simple... 16 gauge is pretty thick stuff so it should be a breeze to do. The key in my job is to get lots and lots of tacks... and then just fusion weld it, no need for filler. Just set it a little hot and move quick, never hang around, just enough to fuse it... If it was thin stuff like 20 gauge I would say stick an piece of aluminum behind it for a dam, but 16 won't need it...
can't believe it took me this many years to buy a diamond wheel for my bench grinder... what a difference
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