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Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby 5th Street Fab » Fri Mar 10, 2017 10:04 pm

I apologize for my pissing contest. Here's some pics and settings and techniques I used today that should help for 16 gauge also however you'll need more amperage.

This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

Image

Pulse at 10 background 10 on time 30ish amps 5-7 seconds pulse and a very fast pace.Image

This is with 1/16" filler. Same method I used before I tack and add a small amount of filler let off the pedal move forward and tack and add filler again. Very simple and effective just slow.


Image

Tack move tack method
ImageImage
Just remember fit up is key especially with fusion welds.

More of the tack move tack method.
Image

Anyways I apologize and I hope this helps. I'm not posting these for any other reason then to help.

Your well on your way already and since you have chill blocks that will help a lot.

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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby 408cheytac » Sat Mar 11, 2017 1:08 am

The piece I will be welding is going to have a continuous weld that will be 19" vertically. Obviously I plan to tac a lot but I was wondering if I should alternate my welds on each side until they meet in the center? So I would weld say 3" on the top and then 3" on the bottom right away, wait for them to cool then repeat until they meet. Or will I be ok if I just take my time for cooling and just run right up bottom to top?
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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby cj737 » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:36 am

Is it possible to orient the pieces horizontally while you weld them? If so, you will not have to battle the heat so much and you should get a more consistent weld. 19" is pretty long in my opinion but you can if the heat control is right. If it were me, I'd start in the middle and weld to the corners splitting it into 2 beads. That can give you a nice tie-in and change the bead directions. (Flip the piece end-for-end so you are welding in the same direction physically).
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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby LtBadd » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:43 am

5th Street Fab wrote:This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

Image


The only thing about this is the crater (or butt hole) that is left when you snap off the pedal, I personally wouldn't like that and the method seems to be slow, more then one way to get the job done and each of us might approach this differently, and that's a good thing about learning what technique others use.
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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby 5th Street Fab » Sat Mar 11, 2017 1:10 pm

LtBadd wrote:
5th Street Fab wrote:This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

Image


The only thing about this is the crater (or butt hole) that is left when you snap off the pedal, I personally wouldn't like that and the method seems to be slow, more then one way to get the job done and each of us might approach this differently, and that's a good thing about learning what technique others use.

Agreed it is very slow and no one likes craters. But it's just another way to get pretty colors with none of the fancy stuff (big cups and chill blocks).

Here's the same technique but dabbing with 040 filler Image

And for thin stainless I use .040 tungsten it's just what I learned on so I'm used to it. It's easy to start at low amperage.

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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby exnailpounder » Sat Mar 11, 2017 3:23 pm

20170311_123635.jpg
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Pic doesn't really show it but every dime has an iridescence like boa constrictor scales and every color from gold to salmon. 16ga. 304 SS, 347 .035 filler, 3/32" 2% lanthanated , 1pps, 50/50 on/off time, #8 gas lens, 16cfh. First 2"..no filler, pedal pulse= flat burned in bead.
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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby exnailpounder » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:04 pm

20170311_155646.jpg
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I think the 347 shows better color than the 316. I'll try Inconel and see what that does.
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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby 408cheytac » Sun Mar 12, 2017 2:40 am

I started welding it today and well one of the pieces is 1/16" off so I can't do an autogenous weld on one end. I had to bridge the two sides and add some filler where it was off but that put a lot of heat in and lost the color for 2". Btw I am welding in the flat. It does not look great for what I wanted but if I have to wire brush it then that will be the new look.
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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby Otto Nobedder » Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:12 am

You can always wire-brush it (a clean brass brush will take the color off without scratching the surface), then bring the color back by welding back over it, no filler, with just enough heat to form a shallow puddle. Using pulse if you have it, or a step-pause motion will keep the stack-of-dimes look. Use the chill block again to avoid adding distortion.

On the other hand, It'll look good brushed, too.

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Re: Custom Stainless Computer Case (Help)

Postby 408cheytac » Tue Mar 14, 2017 1:46 am

First fit up. The welds just look brown from a far so they will be brushed and then I hope to get a nice reflective finish after this.... Pretty ugly for people who don't like welding. :lol:
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