Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
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sledwrenchin
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    Wed Mar 22, 2017 10:15 am

I found out it is Ti 6AI4V Going to use the 6AI4V ELI filler.
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sledwrenchin wrote:I found out it is Ti 6AI4V Going to use the 6AI4V ELI filler.
Great, would like to see some photo's before machining, and of your TIG setup
Richard
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I would highly recommend active heat-sinking. A round, small-diameter shaft will dissipate argon faster than almost any other joint (except for maybe an outside corner joint), so you have to be in total control of heat input. Depending on the level of acceptable oxidation, a #12 might or might not get you by. If you're going to spring for a large cup, why not just go larger? You can get #14, #16, #18, and #24 size cups for a better safety margin.
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Farmwelding
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Oscar wrote:I would highly recommend active heat-sinking. A round, small-diameter shaft will dissipate argon faster than almost any other joint (except for maybe an outside corner joint), so you have to be in total control of heat input. Depending on the level of acceptable oxidation, a #12 might or might not get you by. If you're going to spring for a large cup, why not just go larger? You can get #14, #16, #18, and #24 size cups for a better safety margin.
would this humorous 150
Cup be sufficient with 100 CFH? Or could you get by with 60 CFH for normal regulators :lol:

Nick
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A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
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Nick
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Oscar wrote:I would highly recommend active heat-sinking. A round, small-diameter shaft will dissipate argon faster than almost any other joint (except for maybe an outside corner joint), so you have to be in total control of heat input.
I think it's worth saying in this case, even with a dark straw or blue color, remember the bead will be machined, so the top .XX" will be coming off.
Richard
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