Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
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ProtectWelding
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    Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:54 pm

I am still have problems with the puddle by tiging.

Settings:
140-150 amp
Welding in DC
3/32" (2.4mm) 2% lanth electrode
1/16" (1.6mm) stainless tig rod 301S21
6 gas lens cup
Argon 4.6

When I am power on the torch the Arc is very Stable and dont tramp around the electrode, the Puddle is nice Round. But when I am moving the torch (in nearly 15 - 20 Degrees angle ) and use the Rod, the Puddle moving now to the right and left side. The electrode is grind in length direction and 2-3 long like the diameter. I am using Slightly Less Than 5/8 inch Metall plate and 301S21 stainless Rod.

http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads ... udicwx.png

Do you have any ideas where the problems are? :roll:
Poland308
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Is your base plate SS as well. If not then it could just be the unstable way dissimilar metals melt togeather. Or it could just be the need for more practice. Those welds don't look bad. But wait until you burn through about 50 # of filler then look at your weld results compared to now.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
Lightning
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    Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:55 pm

Turn up the heat or use a smaller tungsten. 140-150A is light for 3/32" tungsten and REALLY light for 5/8" steel
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Along with what Josh wrote...
Depending on your travel speed, if you slow the puddle tends to wander, speed up and it'll be more consistent. if the base material isn't clean this will also cause the puddle to be inconsistent.
Richard
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ProtectWelding
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    Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:54 pm

@ Badd @ Lightning
You're right, but i try many option to get an nice result, change the angle; the Speed; increase the Gas flow from 16 liters to 10; polish the electrode; clean the surface of my basic metal. I have one idea why...as reference use this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJZV4eNux2E) and in this he use an other rod 347 stabilized stainless. I used another one, can be the solution??
cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

The effect of heat in your base material drastically effects the puddle with stainless wire. Those welds don't look bad, just inconsistent with the amount of filler added. The "wandering" puddles to me indicate a much hotter base, or slower travel speed which caused the puddle to "grow" uncontrollably.

140 amps for a 3/32" tungsten is perfectly good, but that amperage is low for 0.625" material. So you may be seeing a situation where the base metal is heating very inconsistently due to its thickness, and the changes in your travel speed. I would recommend you find some 0.25" material and try a few runs again without other changes. See if the results improve. You also need to allow the base to cool so you are welding the material at the same heat as you compare beads/settings.
ProtectWelding
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@CJ
I understand this correctly, if i use the 5/8 Base material in the Future, the amps musst be increase to 150 or more and decrease the welding speed? or use 1/4" Material... thats the problem we have only 5/8 basic Material as Carbon Steel :cry:
cj737
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ProtectWelding wrote:@CJ
I understand this correctly, if i use the 5/8 Base material in the Future, the amps musst be increase to 150 or more and decrease the welding speed? or use 1/4" Material... thats the problem we have only 5/8 basic Material as Carbon Steel :cry:
I find it impossible to say amps should be "xxx" for any thickness as an absolute. Different machines produce different results, people weld at different speeds, different wire thicknesses, different materials, etc. Too many variables to use a specific number.

As a general rule I would be inclined to think you should use more amps for 5/8". The best way to determine that is how quickly does the material puddle? If you must "wait", then you should increase your amps. If it comes up quickly on the first weld, then you're fine.

You can also reduce travel speed to generate more heat into the part if you only have 5/8" material to use.

The other point I was making is that once you have welded your first head, the material is now much hotter so successive welds will behave differently. Just be aware of this as you try to compare the changes of different settings and travel speeds.
ProtectWelding
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    Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:54 pm

Hey I am back
My results with St 52-3 Steel 1/32" Thickness

http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/ ... n4516s.jpg
Just Nick
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    Fri Apr 14, 2017 12:57 pm

some times my welds look exactly the same as your I can figure it out either. I can watch it happening in the puddle as I am welding. It does not matter how much I turn up the amps or what speed I travel. I can slow way to far down and it will do it or crank up the amps and speed up same thing. I have just over looked it and keep going figuring its something of a beginners mistake. I am watching this thread now to see what I am doing wrong. It does not matter what cup I use or how much gas etc. I know it is not tungsten prep as I have a sharpie grinder for tungsten only. Also it does it on different size steels I am clueless on this one. I plan on staying later at work tonight and practicing my welding so if anyone wants me to try anything let me know so we can figure out what up newbs are doing wrong plus I like testing things
Poland308
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On anything thicker than 3/16 base metal steel you should be able to get a nice clean bead with 1/8 70s2 filler at 130 amps. Tungsten 3/32 or 1/8. Argon 100% running about 20-25 cfh and any standard cup from 4-10.
Granted this is not enough amps for a full penetration weld without a bevel but more than enough to run good clean passes with 1/8 filler. Start there and if you don't like the way it looks post a picture up it may be a technique issue or metal quality.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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