Otto Nobedder wrote:Your tungsten will ball all by itself. Only in critical code welds do I ball it first, and then I just use normal settings on some scrap. If you have scrap at hand, that whole "DCEP to ball" thing is wasted time. I grind a short taper, and blunt the point, and call it good.
Steve S
See I don't get this. I've welded a decent chunk of aluminum for the years I've been on this earth( all 17) and I've only used 3/32" ceriated because that's what my school has. I've run from 60-180 amps and never once had it balled. Hell it barely loses its point at 180 amps. The only time my tungsten changes is when I dip-which I don't do as much now. Although the guy Im teaching had a ball on the end of his tungsten the other day that a pen cap couldn't go over. Stabbed it constantly with stainless rod and couldn't figure why his plate wasn't melting and his arc was wandering.
Just listen to Steve (Otto), don't argue with him.
Your machine is running enough negative balance that it doesn't ball - and 180 amps is very small besides.
On a 50/50 machine like my Airco, 1/8" pure balls up right away and welds very well like that.
1/8" thoriated takes longer to ball, but won't always ball smooth.
For the OP, more amps (170-180), full pedal immediately, the arc will straighten out - reduce after you start welding as needed.
Yeah I've kind of figured that out. When Steve says something just go with it. He's got my respect from all the crao he's done. Many others here too but...
Although I thought 180 amps was real heavy on AC current for 3/32"
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
180 IS heavy amps for a 3/32 tungsten, but I usually try for clean enough to set the balance at 10 (max penetration), which allows a lot of amps. I have 1/8 pure tungsten, but didn't switch to it for my recent project welding about 1/4" (Actually, schedule 40 and some 1/4" plate. If you see the ball quiver, you're too hot for the tungsten size and it could puke into your weld.
One of these days, I'll get to use a high quality inverter machine again, and will be able to use the Lanthanated tungsten everyone raves about.
Good info, Dave, thanks for the chart. It seems to show the limit for 3/32 pure at 160A at 70% EN, but I think "10" on my synchrowave is 80% EN which is why I was able to stay within the limits and not dig out my 1/8" stuff. I was set at 225A, but only used that to initiate the puddle, backing off as the heat built up. Of course, those pictures are on another thread...
I am working to apply the advice I'm getting. The welds are still hideous, but now they ARE welds.
My rod-feeding is pretty lame, and it seems to cause more problems with aluminum, because if you screw up, the weld goes nuts while you're trying to get your left hand straightened out.
I decided to order some lanthanated tungstens, because my belief is that skill is no substitute for buying new tools.
I was socially distant when social distancing wasn't cool.
Chips O'Toole wrote:I am working to apply the advice I'm getting. The welds are still hideous, but now they ARE welds.
My rod-feeding is pretty lame, and it seems to cause more problems with aluminum, because if you screw up, the weld goes nuts while you're trying to get your left hand straightened out.
I decided to order some lanthanated tungstens, because my belief is that skill is no substitute for buying new tools.
Make a flat pad of beads, half overlap every prior bead so the top ends up flat.
Use 1/8" thick and at least 8" x 8" so it's big enough to not overheat on every bead.
Once you finish a few of those, your feeding hand should be much better.
Skill and practice wins over buying tools any day
After about 100 hours it all gets easier.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Chips O'Toole wrote:I am working to apply the advice I'm getting. The welds are still hideous, but now they ARE welds.
My rod-feeding is pretty lame, and it seems to cause more problems with aluminum, because if you screw up, the weld goes nuts while you're trying to get your left hand straightened out.
I decided to order some lanthanated tungstens, because my belief is that skill is no substitute for buying new tools.
Make a flat pad of beads, half overlap every prior bead so the top ends up flat.
Use 1/8" thick and at least 8" x 8" so it's big enough to not overheat on every bead.
Once you finish a few of those, your feeding hand should be much better.
Skill and practice wins over buying tools any day
After about 100 hours it all gets easier.
Yep... Pad beads all day long and you will start to worry about the puddle rather than feeding wire. And as Johnny Cash once sang-Get rythm. Find that pulse that gets you going. Try music or a metronome. It helped me when I was starting. Balance the puddle and dipping rod win the pulse of some good ole country.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Y'know what's crazy? I can weld well with either hand, but I only recently realized that when the torch is in my left hand, I can't feed rod worth a damn with my right. That's messed up!
I decided to see if lanthanated tungsten was any more friendly than E3. I have a feeling the problem will still boil down to a total lack of skill on my part.
I was socially distant when social distancing wasn't cool.
Chips O'Toole wrote:I decided to see if lanthanated tungsten was any more friendly than E3. I have a feeling the problem will still boil down to a total lack of skill on my part.
When I started playing guitar, I thought better guitars would make me play better. Seat time is the only way...lot's of it too
Chips O'Toole wrote:I decided to see if lanthanated tungsten was any more friendly than E3. I have a feeling the problem will still boil down to a total lack of skill on my part.
You're actually changing the least significant thing when switching those two tungstens.
In my opinion.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Chips O'Toole wrote: If I changed the part that's causing most of the problems, someone else would be using my welder.
Now that's funny.
I had been using zirconiated tungsten on a transformer machine and really liked it, switched to an inverter machine and it arced over to the gas lens and everywhere but the aluminum- basically unuseable. Went to a 2% lanthanated and had good luck, also ceriated worked well. I had a bit less luck with E3, it seemed to always run hotter for me and create a wider, dull colored bead, but it was acceptable. I think professional welders can use any tungsten and make it work. For home hobbyists and amateurs, I think trying different things can tip the balance in our favor.
Lincoln Square Wave 200
Lincoln 225 AC/DC
Harris Oxy/Acetylene torch
Time under the hood has taught me that 99% of my difficulties come from operator error. 1% come from machine or power input issues, mis-marked/poor quality consumables, etc.
I may have fewer issues than I once did, but the proportion holds, because I've learned how to take care of machines at about the same rate I've learned how not to do silly stuff with the torch.
Chips O'Toole wrote:I decided to see if lanthanated tungsten was any more friendly than E3. I have a feeling the problem will still boil down to a total lack of skill on my part.
When I started playing guitar, I thought better guitars would make me play better. Seat time is the only way...lot's of it too
S'funny, I have a mate who is interested in learning Tig welding. He visited me recently and was talking about all the hoodoo he'd heard about Tig - it's a dark art, you need to sacrifice a BBQ chicken under a full moon, aluminium Tig can only be achieved if you can think in Japanese - and I told him that he'd be okay if he approached it exactly like learning guitar.
Chips O'Toole wrote:I decided to see if lanthanated tungsten was any more friendly than E3. I have a feeling the problem will still boil down to a total lack of skill on my part.
When I started playing guitar, I thought better guitars would make me play better. Seat time is the only way...lot's of it too
S'funny, I have a mate who is interested in learning Tig welding. He visited me recently and was talking about all the hoodoo he'd heard about Tig - it's a dark art, you need to sacrifice a BBQ chicken under a full moon, aluminium Tig can only be achieved if you can think in Japanese - and I told him that he'd be okay if he approached it exactly like learning guitar.
Moz
Pick random strings to press and strum really hard and fast? That's how I play guitar. And if we had to sacrifice a chicken , tig welding wouldn't be taught at public schools due to laws and regulations preventing killing so...
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Someone somewhere recommended a #8 gas lens. When I was doing steel and making welds that looked almost like real welds, I was using a 5. Is 8 likely to be too big?
I was socially distant when social distancing wasn't cool.
I use #7 or 8# gas lens for anything other than aluminum - works fine but use a standard #5 or #6 for aluminum - I rarely get new material so it's often boiling cr#p out which sticks to gas lens screens - I can't understand why but get a wider etch zone / better cleaning with a standard collet so can use a little less %EP - also the bigger the cup the more there is in the way when getting right into a corner so don't see any reason to go bigger than #6 for what I weld - not that I do much aluminum.
The lanthanated tungsten seems a little more friendly, but the first 3/4" or so behind the tip turns blackish blue.
Today I found that the aluminum wanted to blow out before it really formed a puddle, and sometimes the metal turned into a black foam. Also, something was blowing the molten filler rod away from the weld. It left lumps on the end of the rod, and I had to cut them off with pliers. I guess I'll figure it out.
I was socially distant when social distancing wasn't cool.
MinnesotaDave wrote:You need to sit down and weld with someone experienced man - it will straighten out a lot of problems.
Right on! Even if it's just for a half hour or less. But a short term class or a nights or weekend class at a school would help too. Especially since you have some of the basics down.
MinnesotaDave wrote:You need to sit down and weld with someone experienced man - it will straighten out a lot of problems.
Right on! Even if it's just for a half hour or less. But a short term class or a nights or weekend class at a school would help too. Especially since you have some of the basics down.
Since he's taught himself off the internet, better at least double the time needed with the pro
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
In South Florida, welding classes do not exist. I might be able to con the people at one of the local vocational high schools to let me spend $2000 on a class for people in a certificate program, but even I have better things to do than drive to class in heavy traffic three times a week for three months.
It's funny, because the American Welding Society is headquartered here. I'm not sure why. I guess they like South Beach.
They do offer courses in welding inspection, so it's completely possible for me to learn how to criticize other people's welds without actually being able to weld, myself.
No one in the Miami area can do ANYTHING. Can't weld. Can't build houses right. Can't fix a car. You name it; they can't do it. People arrive here from other countries, buy used Harbor Freight tools, and immediately start working at things they can't do. They price everyone else out of the market. As a result, there are no welding or machining programs here, but you can find them in rural towns like Ocala, where there is much less industry.
I was socially distant when social distancing wasn't cool.
