electrode wrote:exnailpounder wrote:The gas lens guy reminds me of a story...using my friends truck to do some work for him....truck dies out...I start pulling spark plugs, checking wires, cleaning out the oxidation on the contact points in the distributor cap, doing everything I can think of. I can't get it to run. I call him...he says "the truck has 2 gas tanks, one is empty, flip the switch to the other tank" ....it ran. Might as well try everything else first right?
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Olivero
Thanks for your input
I tend to agree that the issue is me as history with me shows it's usually something I did that is making my welds shit and not the welder. I'm not home ATM but after all the dramas I just picked up the torch and welded some lap joints that I needed for a little bracket And wow... that addictive feeling of nice shiny puddles that just swallow up filler rod I swear I could hear Barry white music playing in the background and rays of sunshine and rainbows shooting from the workshop. Anyways what I mean is when it works it works great but there has to be a variable which it's not liking and that variable is driving me crazy.
Question: could it be that I'm welding and halfway through a puddle I hit some sort of contamination and with current traveling up and Dow from the electrode I'm sucking up some crap and it's sticking to my electrode? Then with enough time/cleaning action the tip of my electrode cleans itself?
Thanks for your input
I tend to agree that the issue is me as history with me shows it's usually something I did that is making my welds shit and not the welder. I'm not home ATM but after all the dramas I just picked up the torch and welded some lap joints that I needed for a little bracket And wow... that addictive feeling of nice shiny puddles that just swallow up filler rod I swear I could hear Barry white music playing in the background and rays of sunshine and rainbows shooting from the workshop. Anyways what I mean is when it works it works great but there has to be a variable which it's not liking and that variable is driving me crazy.
Question: could it be that I'm welding and halfway through a puddle I hit some sort of contamination and with current traveling up and Dow from the electrode I'm sucking up some crap and it's sticking to my electrode? Then with enough time/cleaning action the tip of my electrode cleans itself?
Rubbin' is racin' son
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Trying to weld galvanized metal will really mess up your tungsten but welding aluminum won't crap it up unless you dip. You will get a little oxidation on your tungsten but not enough to mess with your weld. When you weld on DC your electrode will stay nice and bright as long as you have a good post flow. It's very difficult if not impossible to weld through contaminated AL. I am guessing you are getting out of position a little and changing your arc length or torch angle and that's giving you some headaches. If your metal is clean then you shouldn't have any problems but sometimes dirty filler will cause grief.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
I'm starting to think the throttle body flange I purchased might have some sort of anodise on it. I know it sounds stupid but it doesn't look like anodise but it doesn't look like raw aluminium either. I just wrote it off as me being silly because it's sold as being used for welding but I'm having doubts and that could explain everything don't you agree?
Rubbin' is racin' son
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Sometimes extruded and die-cast AL can look anodized. I would bet your throttle body is die-cast. Can you scratch it easily? If you can, it's not anodized.ONDGAS wrote:I'm starting to think the throttle body flange I purchased might have some sort of anodise on it. I know it sounds stupid but it doesn't look like anodise but it doesn't look like raw aluminium either. I just wrote it off as me being silly because it's sold as being used for welding but I'm having doubts and that could explain everything don't you agree?
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Anodizing certainly will scratch easily. Perhaps it's better to examine the aluminum after scratching to determine if it's anodized or still raw/untreated? Anodized will show differently in the scratches where untreated looks largely similar.
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http://www.thefabricator.com/article/tu ... tural-tube
Anodizing is a scratch resistant coating. "anodizing creates a scratch resistant coating comparable to Sapphire, the second hardest substance after a diamond" Great article...worth a read.
Anodizing is a scratch resistant coating. "anodizing creates a scratch resistant coating comparable to Sapphire, the second hardest substance after a diamond" Great article...worth a read.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Thanks for the link, but having owned saltwater boats for a rather long time, ample motorcycles, and building stuff with anodized aluminum, I will rest my case on my experiences. I never said it wasn't scratch resistant, only that it can, and will scratch easily. Think I'm wrong? Step onto anyone's saltwater boat and look at their T Tops, handrails, etc. You'll see plenty of scratches. Or motorcycle forks, or triple trees, or....exnailpounder wrote:http://www.thefabricator.com/article/tu ... tural-tube
Anodizing is a scratch resistant coating. "anodizing creates a scratch resistant coating comparable to Sapphire, the second hardest substance after a diamond" Great article...worth a read.
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Depends on the quality of finish. If you're implying that even colored finish anodized will scratch as easily as raw AL then you need to read the article. ANYTHING can be scratched
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Regardless of it being anodized or not, it really doesen't make a difference, I have welded lots and lots of anodized aluminum and it welds just the same.
Welding looks easy sometimes but in truth, we all are thinking with a lot of variables at the time like the torch angle, weld gap, how far down is the pedal, liquidity of the puddle, movement speed, filler addition rate, wind, the surroundings, staying straight on the seam, consistent moving speed and the list goes on. After a while they become second nature to you but until then, it's not easy, even when you get it, its not easy.
Welding is not easy no matter who you watch, we can make it look easy and I do and the people I have trained all say I make it look SO easy but once they go under the hood, they see its now not so easy.
Just make sure you understand what you are doing and why the various things are important to have right. Robotically following instructions makes it difficult to be a welder, makes for a good robot. Knowing how it works, why it works when it works and what all the little variables can change, then your cooking with gas.
Took me weeks of studying for 3-4 hours every day of just pure welding, metallurgy, shielding gases, welding technology and welding guides and welding different metals, oxidization, passivation, pickling and the list goes on. I searched far and wide online, this is so I can understand what I am doing and seeing and act accordingly.
To answer your question,
It is possible to hit contamination going along a piece BUT since the temperature at the point of your electrode is so fecking high, Its almost impossible for anything to stick to it unless you take the heat off. Consider this, 1/8" or 1/4"" away from your electrode your able to make a puddle of molten metal, right at the source will be way hotter. In terms of contamination like oil or grease or such things that's impossible, they evaporate far before they would ever get close to your electrode, dirt and other things can get into the weld even if its just carbon after the material got fried by the sun itself, that will contaminate the puddle. Like Nail mentioned, even if you dip your electrode, it still shouldn't make your welds too bad, its annoying but you can still get decent welds until you decide to get up and cut it back.
There, end of lecture 1
Welding looks easy sometimes but in truth, we all are thinking with a lot of variables at the time like the torch angle, weld gap, how far down is the pedal, liquidity of the puddle, movement speed, filler addition rate, wind, the surroundings, staying straight on the seam, consistent moving speed and the list goes on. After a while they become second nature to you but until then, it's not easy, even when you get it, its not easy.
Welding is not easy no matter who you watch, we can make it look easy and I do and the people I have trained all say I make it look SO easy but once they go under the hood, they see its now not so easy.
Just make sure you understand what you are doing and why the various things are important to have right. Robotically following instructions makes it difficult to be a welder, makes for a good robot. Knowing how it works, why it works when it works and what all the little variables can change, then your cooking with gas.
Took me weeks of studying for 3-4 hours every day of just pure welding, metallurgy, shielding gases, welding technology and welding guides and welding different metals, oxidization, passivation, pickling and the list goes on. I searched far and wide online, this is so I can understand what I am doing and seeing and act accordingly.
To answer your question,
It is possible to hit contamination going along a piece BUT since the temperature at the point of your electrode is so fecking high, Its almost impossible for anything to stick to it unless you take the heat off. Consider this, 1/8" or 1/4"" away from your electrode your able to make a puddle of molten metal, right at the source will be way hotter. In terms of contamination like oil or grease or such things that's impossible, they evaporate far before they would ever get close to your electrode, dirt and other things can get into the weld even if its just carbon after the material got fried by the sun itself, that will contaminate the puddle. Like Nail mentioned, even if you dip your electrode, it still shouldn't make your welds too bad, its annoying but you can still get decent welds until you decide to get up and cut it back.
There, end of lecture 1
if there's a welder, there's a way
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Nothing nefarious...just meant good response.Olivero wrote:You and these terms, what is a golf clap?exnailpounder wrote:Golf clap for you Olivero.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Lol, thanks. now I get to google another word.exnailpounder wrote:Nothing nefarious...just meant good response.Olivero wrote:You and these terms, what is a golf clap?exnailpounder wrote:Golf clap for you Olivero.
Having fun poking at the foreign guy aye?
That's some creepy looking clapping going on above me here.
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Not so much that your from another country..it's just that I'm getting friggin old
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Since no one actually answered this,Olivero wrote:You and these terms, what is a golf clap?exnailpounder wrote:Golf clap for you Olivero.
Have you ever watched a golf tournament, either on TV or in real life?
A "golf clap" is when the folks watching you putt out applaud, but very quietly, so as not to disturb the folks putting on the next hole. It makes very little sound.
It's also a movie reference to Charlie Sheen and Emilio Estevez in "Men at Work." I think this was were Jeff was going, for some odd reason...
Steve
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I already have the poor guy spinning...I knew he wouldn't know about the Men at Work movie. That shit bomb in the locker is one of the funniest things I ever saw in my lifeOtto Nobedder wrote:Since no one actually answered this,Olivero wrote:You and these terms, what is a golf clap?exnailpounder wrote:Golf clap for you Olivero.
Have you ever watched a golf tournament, either on TV or in real life?
A "golf clap" is when the folks watching you putt out applaud, but very quietly, so as not to disturb the folks putting on the next hole. It makes very little sound.
It's also a movie reference to Charlie Sheen and Emilio Estevez in "Men at Work." I think this was were Jeff was going, for some odd reason...
Steve
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
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