...and that's a perfect example of where you should have cooked the weld to get that gray finnish Dave
Nice work though
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- MinnesotaDave
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
Haha!! Didn't think of thatAndersK wrote:...and that's a perfect example of where you should have cooked the weld to get that gray finnish Dave
Nice work though
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Remember, heat is not just about "setting the amps at the machine". Amperage is one thing, and voltage is the other variable. Not in the sense that you yourself set the voltage via knob/setting, but voltage manifests itself in the form of extra heat from too much torch angle and/or too much arc length. Both (too much arc length and/or torch angle) increase the size of the arc cone, by way of the machine increasing the voltage for you in order to maintain the electric arc lit. This dumps extra heat into the piece, but not like a water hose with a nice perfect cylindrical flow. It flares out a lot at the base metal, so the actual energy delivery (energy density) is less dense (watts/mm²) than if you have the optimum arc length/angle, because it's so spread out. So not all of your 160A are going where you want them go to/think they are going.Chips O'Toole wrote:I had to look a few things up after reading that.MinnesotaDave wrote:There is actually a lot wrong with the welds.
-The weld did not wet out at the toes.
-The weld contacts the metal at the toe at too steep of an angle creating a notch effect for a crack to propagate.
-Visually it was mostly put in too cold with too much fill creating an overly convex weld that created the problem above.
-Since the weld is cold, there is likely a lack of fusion at the root as well.
Too cold...I'm trying to figure out how that happened. I was getting a big puddle, and I kept dipping the filler to keep the puddle from getting too big and melting way into the upper bar. I would have expected "too cold" to mean a small shallow puddle.
I thought I was too hot, because the metal was heating up a lot, and not just close to the weld.
Good question. Another obvious question: Are you using pure Argon?zank wrote:Are you on DC-? Sorry for the obvious question, but three things make me wonder. First is the balling of the tungsten. Second is the required 160 amps. And third is how there is a sootie looking deposit in a band away from the weld. It almost looks like there is some cleaning action and then some soot. Or my phone isn't let me see the picture in enough detail.
Miller Dynasty 210dx
instagram: rsengineeringllc
instagram: rsengineeringllc
Keep at it Chips, you'll get there. Looks a heck of a lot better than your first welds that you posted.
Pete
Pete
Pete
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
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