Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
motox
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Anders
you should repost some of your pervious projects.
as i remember you have some beauties!
craig
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Thx Craig
No need to repost, they're still here ;)

Added a link in my signature just for you :mrgreen:
motox
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anders
thanks great stuff. the torch box is my favorite, love the rivets.
i use them a lot myself.
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
Dalzani
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Hello all. I´m back.

I´m not sure about my skills with TIG welding aluminum so... We decide to rent a machine instead buy one for a while.
Today, I did my initial tests using a lot of 1.5mm thick aluminum rectangles.

My first impression... TIG welding carbon steel IS PRETTY EASY!!! :lol:

Ok, my problems:

1) After start the pudle I can run the bead easily for 4 or 5 inches on a but joint and than... A hole. I´m using 55A. I think that is the hot building up and I don´t have a foot pedal.
2) At the start and end edges is very difficult to me, ALL TIMES I´m melting down the aluminum sheet. Any trick?
3) This is only cosmetic but will be any quality (structural) issues if a did a washing weld? First pass using filler rod and a second pass with no filler. I asking this because this project needs a good appearance and the welding beads will be visible.

Thanks all.
cj737
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Dalzani wrote:Hello all. I´m back.

I´m not sure about my skills with TIG welding aluminum so... We decide to rent a machine instead buy one for a while.
Today, I did my initial tests using a lot of 1.5mm thick aluminum rectangles.

My first impression... TIG welding carbon steel IS PRETTY EASY!!! :lol:

Ok, my problems:

1) After start the pudle I can run the bead easily for 4 or 5 inches on a but joint and than... A hole. I´m using 55A. I think that is the hot building up and I don´t have a foot pedal. yep, exactly
2) At the start and end edges is very difficult to me, ALL TIMES I´m melting down the aluminum sheet. Any trick? start away from the end, light up, slide backwards with a dab to "add" filler. Near end, add more filler quickly to prevent burning out/thru.
3) This is only cosmetic but will be any quality (structural) issues if a did a washing weld? First pass using filler rod and a second pass with no filler. I asking this because this project needs a good appearance and the welding beads will be visible. works info. You can probably lower your amps too as the part is already quite hot. Same is true for the above. After first weld, the base is HOT, lower your amps some to help prevent burning up. And reduce the distance you weld to help control the heat.

Thanks all.
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Another trick when starting close to the edge is to lay the rod over the joint and let it protrude a few mm outside the edge. Light up at the end of the rod and let it form a ball, move closer to the edge and let it fuse with base metal.

You might need to do a few trials first to find how much protrusion you can handle. Too much and it won't fuse unless you increase current.

The most common mistake I did when starting with aluminium was too low current and to dip the rod too soon. You really need to watch the puddle and not dip until it gets that shiny mirror look. Otherwise the rod will cool it and just ball up and oxidise. When you finally get it to fuse it won't look as good as you expect.
Dalzani
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Nice!

We are doing a lot of carbon steel welding today. Tomorrow I´ll restart my tests on aluminum. Then I´ll take some pictures.

Thanks.
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Forgot to mention another trick

Add an extra piece at the edge and tack all 3. Then you simply break the excess off
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Dalzani
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Good ideia. For sure I´ll use it.

Thanks.
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AndersK wrote:Forgot to mention another trick

Add an extra piece at the edge and tack all 3. Then you simply break the excess off
AndersK, you snapped it off before starting the weld!! :lol: :lol:
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LtBadd wrote: AndersK, you snapped it off before starting the weld!! :lol: :lol:
So you really think I can weld? :lol:

It actually needed 2 or three bends to snap off :mrgreen:
Dalzani
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Hello all again.

Trying some overlaps on thin aluminum 1.5mm. I don´t know why but seems to be much more difficult then a butt joint using the same thickness. Probably the weld is good but it is VERY ugly. What i´m doing wrong?

By the way... 60A for the bead.

Thanks all.
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motox
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the sheets need to be clamped as so the edge does not lift or warp.
use a backer and tack often.
if the edge lifts heat gets under the edge and melts it away.
hope this help some
craig
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Dalzani
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No clamps was used. And just a few tacks 3 or 4 in a 35 cm extension. Next time I´ll double the tacks and buy some long clamps. You are sure a did a lot of deviations to refill the burned edges.

Thanks.
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No too bad, just need more time to maintain consistent speed.

When welding long flat surfaces I use a small piece of fire blanket that I fold to about 4 layers. Rest your palm at it and you won't get burned and it helps you slide along easier.
Dalzani
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AndersK, good ideia.

And what about "Tig Finger"? Anyone knows the material used?

Edited...

I did not see any penetration on the back side of aluminum. Using 60A and was already very difficult to avoid burning the edges.

Is this right?

Thanks.
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