dgapilot wrote:Glad I'm not the only one! Practice will help. Look at my posts, and see the improvement I made in just 2 weeks. Don't get discouraged. 20 cfh may be a little high for gas flow depending on the cup size you are using. For my work so far, I have 3/16 material, #6 cup, 3/32 2% lanthinated tungsten, er70s2 rod, about 15 cfh flow, machine set to 130 amps, .5 pre flow, 15 post flow. Your using a little thinner material, so maybe a little lower on the amps, but otherwise a very similar set up. When I started my beads were in an arc. Last weekend I concentrated on making strength lines. I also found just starting the arc and observing the effects of pedal manipulation on the arc and puddle without moving or dipping rod helped a lot. I also added cheater lenses in my hood, my 64 year old eyes aren't what they used to be! Head position so you can see the arc and puddle is important. I found when I started I could see everything, but by the time I was getting to the end of a bead, my hand and the torch were in the way of seeing. I repositioned so the material was more to the side rather than directly in front of me, and moved my head lower and was able to odserve the process more from the side than from above. This gave a much better view of what was happening for the full pass. Simple things that made a big difference! Have fun and practice!
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#8 Furick cup, im going to give it another whirl after work today and see how things go, sucks that I cant take my welder home yet, but when I do I expect to see a massive jump in skill...hopefully. Instead of spending time in bars I plan to spend time at a bench running beads.
You are using 100% argon? Not the co argon mix for mig welding. It looks like bad gas to me. Try laying a bead without filler and see if you can get the nice shiny look.
Just wanted to post a quick update, lowered the amps and cfh a bit and switched to a thinner filler rod and here is how it came out. Also a tig finger is priced way lower than its value. still made a few mistakes, but overall i think its an improvement. Thanks for the help to everyone.
Beads look much better, but you still need to clean the metal a great deal more. It should be shiny before you TIG. And if the material is pretty thin, clean the backside too else it will draw the impurities through the material onto the weld side.
went with a longer stick out today and got a few shiny beads today, however i havent been cleaning the backside, i will add that to my pre weld prep work. Again appreciate all the help fellas