[HoodLyfe]

Couple customers begged me to build them a couple turbo cars. So, being in the auto industry as a full out repair and a passion for performance, I've spent 20 years with a mig here and there. Unfortunately mig won't fly when doing these types of builds. So, needed to buy a tig for home/performance builds. These were really the first time I had picked up a tig, within the first few days. So, not my greatest work as it was a bit ago. But, I can share my experience. These welds were stainless V band flanges to aluminiumized 3.5" and stainless to stainless. I found when learning it was easier to pulse with the pedal to keep the heat down. It will also allow you to work a bit slower as learning. Make the puddle, start backing off the pedal as your dabbing rod. Kinda like running the pulse feature, but manually. These welds weren't back purged, as they were budget builds and time/funds weren't (no expense spared). Still needed to be presentable.
Lots of people disagree with the pulsing manually, but it works for me.



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[Mojo88]

.... get a Tig finger or improvise with fiberglass exhaust wrap tape so you can rest your torch hand close to the weld without burning - also try for a fit up where an autogenous weld is possible but have some very thin filler in the hand ready to make up any imperfections if needed - I find this works for me.

Thanks again for great tips! I do have a 'TIG finger', but have not yet tried it.

I have been practicing my autogenous welding. It seems to be getting better, as long as fit-up is real good. I keep getting little dimples when I pause... is there a way to taper off without getting the dimples? Below is a pic of AutoG weld I did last night:

Thanks, Dave F.

[Mojo88]

......These were really the first time I had picked up a tig, within the first few days. So, not my greatest work as it was a bit ago. But, I can share my experience. These welds were stainless V band flanges to aluminiumized 3.5" and stainless to stainless.......

My friend, if you were doing these welds after only a few days of TIG'ing, then I am am way behind the curve, LOL. Nice work. Thanks for posting the pics, and for the advice.....

[HoodLyfe]

......These were really the first time I had picked up a tig, within the first few days. So, not my greatest work as it was a bit ago. But, I can share my experience. These welds were stainless V band flanges to aluminiumized 3.5" and stainless to stainless.......

My friend, if you were doing these welds after only a few days of TIG'ing, then I am am way behind the curve, LOL. Nice work. Thanks for posting the pics, and for the advice.....

I had a 2.5 hr quick crash course with a welder/fabricator friend at his shop.
Someone who has been spending his whole life tig welding and also builds custom stainless commercial kitchens and tops for the medical field.
This brought me light years ahead of the game, rather then "figuring it out".
My suggestion is to pickup a phone book, look up "custom sheet metal, and welding". Drop by their shop, ask politely for a quick lesson. Hell even offer beer money. Tell them you want to learn from the best type deal. Show up with your helmet in your hand. I've had many people want to learn how to do small things on their cars, and I even encourage them to try and learn. So, I have in some down time babysat and watched closely while they have made attempts. Now, you won't be able to walk into a bigger place, and ask this. Try a small welding shop. As the bigger commercial workplaces have rules/codes/etc. But, small places will more likely spend the time with you. It makes their head bigger.
2 hours with a professional will = 30+ hours of you tube watching and 100 hours of trying to figure it out on your own.

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[HoodLyfe]

......These were really the first time I had picked up a tig, within the first few days. So, not my greatest work as it was a bit ago. But, I can share my experience. These welds were stainless V band flanges to aluminiumized 3.5" and stainless to stainless.......

My friend, if you were doing these welds after only a few days of TIG'ing, then I am am way behind the curve, LOL. Nice work. Thanks for posting the pics, and for the advice.....

I had a 2.5 hr quick crash course with a welder/fabricator friend at his shop.
Someone who has been spending his whole life tig welding and also builds custom stainless commercial kitchens and tops for the medical field.
This brought me light years ahead of the game, rather then "figuring it out".
My suggestion is to pickup a phone book, look up "custom sheet metal, and welding". Drop by their shop, ask politely for a quick lesson. Hell even offer beer money. Tell them you want to learn from the best type deal. Show up with your helmet in your hand. I've had many people want to learn how to do small things on their cars, and I even encourage them to try and learn. So, I have in some down time babysat and watched closely while they have made attempts. Now, you won't be able to walk into a bigger place, and ask this. Try a small welding shop. As the bigger commercial workplaces have rules/codes/etc. But, small places will more likely spend the time with you. It makes their head bigger.
2 hours with a professional will = 30+ hours of you tube watching and 100 hours of trying to figure it out on your own.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

[cj737]

I keep getting little dimples when I pause... is there a way to taper off without getting the dimples? Below is a pic of AutoG weld I did last night:

Two things: increasing the flow of your purge slightly can help. The other, when doing fusion welds, taper off the heat just prior to finishing that "segment" so as not to keyhole. Those dimples are an indication of a lack of filler/too much heat for the travel speed. Pretty common challenge for fusion welds. But you're welds look pretty darn good for a new TIG welder!

[cj737]

Couple customers begged me to build them a couple turbo cars. So, being in the auto industry as a full out repair and a passion for performance, I've spent 20 years with a mig here and there. Unfortunately mig won't fly when doing these types of builds. So, needed to buy a tig for home/performance builds. These were really the first time I had picked up a tig, within the first few days. So, not my greatest work as it was a bit ago. But, I can share my experience. These welds were stainless V band flanges to aluminiumized 3.5" and stainless to stainless. I found when learning it was easier to pulse with the pedal to keep the heat down. It will also allow you to work a bit slower as learning. Make the puddle, start backing off the pedal as your dabbing rod. Kinda like running the pulse feature, but manually. These welds weren't back purged, as they were budget builds and time/funds weren't (no expense spared). Still needed to be presentable.
Lots of people disagree with the pulsing manually, but it works for me.

You're right, lots of folks avoid manual pulse, but if thats all you have for a machine, it works rather well. And in all reality, to a degree every foot pedal is "pulsed" when fluctuating the heat as you go. True "pulse" is obviously more distinct.

I would offer a bit of feedback on the weld in this picture (and an inherent danger in foot pulse): the toes of that weld are on the cold side. Not the end of the world by any stretch, and given when they were done per your experience, they are very consistent. But the heat was insufficient overall in the background to keep the metal hot enough to help the fusion. Thats where a machine with pulse really does help as you can often set the parameters to On, Background, Slope, etc.

Just "feedback" and no criticism at all

[Mojo88]

......
My suggestion is to pickup a phone book, look up "custom sheet metal, and welding". Drop by their shop,... Try a small welding shop. As the bigger commercial workplaces have rules/codes/etc. But, small places will more likely spend the time with you. It makes their head bigger.
2 hours with a professional will = 30+ hours of you tube watching and 100 hours of trying to figure it out on your own.....

Gawd damn, that's a great idea. I will do that. I don't mind paying real money for a good lesson........

[Mojo88]

Two things: increasing the flow of your purge slightly can help. The other, when doing fusion welds, taper off the heat just prior to finishing that "segment" so as not to keyhole. Those dimples are an indication of a lack of filler/too much heat for the travel speed. Pretty common challenge for fusion welds. But you're welds look pretty darn good for a new TIG welder!

Thanks very much!

I wasn't using a 'purge' there, but did you mean increase my gas flow at the torch?? I am at about 15CFH using 1/16" Lanthanated blue tungsten and #8 cup with gas lens. Machine is set at 80 amps DCEN with no automatic pulse, but I'm using foot pedal to keep it lower..... or should I just set machine at 50 or 60 amps and then floor the pedal?? Thanks

[cj737]

I wasn't using a 'purge' there, but did you mean increase my gas flow at the torch??

No, I thought you were also purging here. Doing so would also help, but your torch CFM is fine. One benefit of purging is it helps keep the weld "up" if you will, by having back pressure and preventing the contamination from drooping internally. This is even more true with filler added.

Its been my personal experience, when welding stainless tubing, that if I get these dimples or recessed welds, I can increase my purge flow pressure and things get a whole LOT better-er. But then again, I am far from a professional welder...

[Oscar]

Orange-brownish dust of death = you dipped the tungsten or ran into some heavy contamination. In either case, you need to grind out the contaminated portion because it is likely full of wormholes.