So I was fitting a new torch one morning, with too little caffeine apparently and cut my WP20 power connector off, I should have unscrewed it. Not sure what I was thinking, I guess I just wasn't. I was going to shorten the cables but I should have done it at the other end.
Long story short, I can't find this crimp connector anywhere. This is the crimp connector with the flared fitting and free floating nut. Id like to not buy a complete new power cable as this one is almost brand new.
The connector I am talking about is the one without the arrows pointing to it. Would like to get my water cooled torch back up and running, any help appreciated thank you!
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crimp style: http://www.brwtechnologies.com/Western_ ... /cn-60.htm
crimpless style: http://www.brwtechnologies.com/CK_2PF1_ ... k-2pf1.htm
crimpless style: http://www.brwtechnologies.com/CK_2PF1_ ... k-2pf1.htm
- LtBadd
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Great resource Oscar.Oscar wrote:crimp style: http://www.brwtechnologies.com/Western_ ... /cn-60.htm
crimpless style: http://www.brwtechnologies.com/CK_2PF1_ ... k-2pf1.htm
I don't see how the 2nd link is crimpless....they actually state "See the CK-2PF1 fitting for a cheaper alternative that we stock." in the description, which is the part in your first link.
Richard
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I believe you are correct...either way you are crimping the power cable into the copper body. I think the "crimpless" is talking about the water seal actually since most use a crimp hose clamp (oettinger clamp) to seal the water connection vs compression style "crimpless" like you see on most of the gas and water return lines. If my train of thought is correct anyway.
So many thanks, I was losing hope and about to debraze the brass part and turn a new copper body on the lathe then grind the water port out, silver solder it back together and such. A lot of work for something I can buy for $20. I have a hydraulic crimper I can use for the power connection so $20 and I'm back up and running on that torch, thank you!
So many thanks, I was losing hope and about to debraze the brass part and turn a new copper body on the lathe then grind the water port out, silver solder it back together and such. A lot of work for something I can buy for $20. I have a hydraulic crimper I can use for the power connection so $20 and I'm back up and running on that torch, thank you!
That's exactly what I meant. The power wire still has to be crimped down so the copper end crushes and water/coolant gets in through the hole slightly ahead.slow_audi wrote: I think the "crimpless" is talking about the water seal actually since most use a crimp hose clamp (oettinger clamp) to seal the water connection vs compression style "crimpless" like you see on most of the gas and water return lines. If my train of thought is correct anyway.
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