Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

A #26 is essentially a larger bodied #17 torch, rated for 250 Amps. If you're running that high of amps, you might re-consider a water cooled setup. You might...

I use a #5, a #8, and a #12 cup. The 8/12 I use the same 3/32 stubby lens from Miller. I only switch to a "jumbo" or long-nosed lens (still 3/32 and #8 cup) for TIG welding pipe of >4" OD. Easier for me to walk the cup around.

I'm a huge fan of the Furick Fupa cups, and use them in Clear (5, 8 and 12) for aluminum and stainless. I also recently grabbed his ceramic 12 and have been very pleased with it for DC welding where I want the coverage, AND want the contact.

You probably also want an 1/8" lens, but the Fupa cups won't fit a 1/8" lens setup, only 3/32. I've spent way more money on cups in every darn size than I'll ever use, only to find a "sweet spot" for me in these 3 cups. Sure, I've come across a situation where a long-nosed 4 would be perfect, but I work around those situations with a larger cup and longer stick out now.
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[quote="cj737"][quote="Breezer28"]

I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt

Well he is left handed! It makes a difference. ;)
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cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

rick9345 wrote:
cj737 wrote:
Breezer28 wrote:
I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt

Well he is left handed! It makes a difference. ;)
i have seen it and absolutely agree, but the only reason I don’t switch to a 1/8” only is my Fupa cups won’t work with anything but 3/32 lenses. And since the OP is bouncing around for a range of setups, I steered to 3/32 and 1/8.
'Stang
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cj737 wrote:
Graveyard wrote: The larger ones he doesn’t so I assumed the #8 cups fit the same description. I guess I was mistaken.
That’s because there’s not really a needed application for a 12/16 cup with aluminum like there is for Ti or Stainless; which is the intended market for his Fupa, Moose and BBW.

Even so, you can use them for ally, but why would you? You just don’t need that kind of coverage.
The #8 cups are just a gas lense with a Pyrex type cup. If you look at the #12 in Jody's store-he warns that the diffuser can arc out on the #12. That is why you shouldn't use them on AC. Them #8 doesn't have a diffuser.
Breezer28
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    Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:16 pm

Hello everyone!

I bought all the parts that I wanted.. (some I will most likely never use but if I need them, I'll have them and won't have to wait weeks to get them in the mail)


On a side note:

Well, I've been having a go at it!
Recently I switched argon suppliers and I've been having some issues specially because apparently my argon regulator wasn't regulating sh*t and I couldn't figure out what was happening as in before, the reducers were built-in with the valve on the Ar cylinders..

I was stuck for a while because when I switched the suppliers, the only argon regulators that I had, since they were bought over in the States (CGA-320 and CGA-580) , they are not compatible with the ones sold here in the EU (DIN 477 or W21.8 x 1/14) ..

I managed to find a local "supplier" of beer draft machines and they let me borrow an old CO2 regulator off of them at least until I get my new regulator in the mail..
But, I got lots and lots of contamination on my weld beads (I shouldn't even say they were weld beads because it was just sh*te)..

Funny thing tho.. I unscrewed the end of off my own CGA-580 regulator and removed the threaded bushing (male threads).
I then did the same to the regulator that I borrowed that has the DIN 477 plug (it's a female Nut).
I tried using the shaft and female nut off of the DIN 477 regulator but the the threads are different and couldn't screw it on to my regulator port...

I then tried to use just the DIN477 female nut on the shaft that came on my CGA-580 regulator and voilà.. NO LEAKS!
Still, I kept trying to adjust the output flow on pressure reducer but it just wouldn't let me adjust to a decent working CFH...and still had lots of porosity..

Ended up having to put a valve on the line that feeds the argon to the machine so I could adjust it just enough so I could make a decent looking weld with no porosity!

Until I get the new reducer in the mail, I can't do any decent work.. and that is gonna take well over one week to get here!
:roll: :roll: :roll:
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