A #26 is essentially a larger bodied #17 torch, rated for 250 Amps. If you're running that high of amps, you might re-consider a water cooled setup. You might...
I use a #5, a #8, and a #12 cup. The 8/12 I use the same 3/32 stubby lens from Miller. I only switch to a "jumbo" or long-nosed lens (still 3/32 and #8 cup) for TIG welding pipe of >4" OD. Easier for me to walk the cup around.
I'm a huge fan of the Furick Fupa cups, and use them in Clear (5, 8 and 12) for aluminum and stainless. I also recently grabbed his ceramic 12 and have been very pleased with it for DC welding where I want the coverage, AND want the contact.
You probably also want an 1/8" lens, but the Fupa cups won't fit a 1/8" lens setup, only 3/32. I've spent way more money on cups in every darn size than I'll ever use, only to find a "sweet spot" for me in these 3 cups. Sure, I've come across a situation where a long-nosed 4 would be perfect, but I work around those situations with a larger cup and longer stick out now.
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
[quote="cj737"][quote="Breezer28"]
I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt
Well he is left handed! It makes a difference.
I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt
Well he is left handed! It makes a difference.
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
i have seen it and absolutely agree, but the only reason I don’t switch to a 1/8” only is my Fupa cups won’t work with anything but 3/32 lenses. And since the OP is bouncing around for a range of setups, I steered to 3/32 and 1/8.rick9345 wrote:cj737 wrote:Breezer28 wrote:
I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt
Well he is left handed! It makes a difference.
The #8 cups are just a gas lense with a Pyrex type cup. If you look at the #12 in Jody's store-he warns that the diffuser can arc out on the #12. That is why you shouldn't use them on AC. Them #8 doesn't have a diffuser.cj737 wrote:That’s because there’s not really a needed application for a 12/16 cup with aluminum like there is for Ti or Stainless; which is the intended market for his Fupa, Moose and BBW.Graveyard wrote: The larger ones he doesn’t so I assumed the #8 cups fit the same description. I guess I was mistaken.
Even so, you can use them for ally, but why would you? You just don’t need that kind of coverage.
Hello everyone!
I bought all the parts that I wanted.. (some I will most likely never use but if I need them, I'll have them and won't have to wait weeks to get them in the mail)
On a side note:
Well, I've been having a go at it!
Recently I switched argon suppliers and I've been having some issues specially because apparently my argon regulator wasn't regulating sh*t and I couldn't figure out what was happening as in before, the reducers were built-in with the valve on the Ar cylinders..
I was stuck for a while because when I switched the suppliers, the only argon regulators that I had, since they were bought over in the States (CGA-320 and CGA-580) , they are not compatible with the ones sold here in the EU (DIN 477 or W21.8 x 1/14) ..
I managed to find a local "supplier" of beer draft machines and they let me borrow an old CO2 regulator off of them at least until I get my new regulator in the mail..
But, I got lots and lots of contamination on my weld beads (I shouldn't even say they were weld beads because it was just sh*te)..
Funny thing tho.. I unscrewed the end of off my own CGA-580 regulator and removed the threaded bushing (male threads).
I then did the same to the regulator that I borrowed that has the DIN 477 plug (it's a female Nut).
I tried using the shaft and female nut off of the DIN 477 regulator but the the threads are different and couldn't screw it on to my regulator port...
I then tried to use just the DIN477 female nut on the shaft that came on my CGA-580 regulator and voilà.. NO LEAKS!
Still, I kept trying to adjust the output flow on pressure reducer but it just wouldn't let me adjust to a decent working CFH...and still had lots of porosity..
Ended up having to put a valve on the line that feeds the argon to the machine so I could adjust it just enough so I could make a decent looking weld with no porosity!
Until I get the new reducer in the mail, I can't do any decent work.. and that is gonna take well over one week to get here!
I bought all the parts that I wanted.. (some I will most likely never use but if I need them, I'll have them and won't have to wait weeks to get them in the mail)
On a side note:
Well, I've been having a go at it!
Recently I switched argon suppliers and I've been having some issues specially because apparently my argon regulator wasn't regulating sh*t and I couldn't figure out what was happening as in before, the reducers were built-in with the valve on the Ar cylinders..
I was stuck for a while because when I switched the suppliers, the only argon regulators that I had, since they were bought over in the States (CGA-320 and CGA-580) , they are not compatible with the ones sold here in the EU (DIN 477 or W21.8 x 1/14) ..
I managed to find a local "supplier" of beer draft machines and they let me borrow an old CO2 regulator off of them at least until I get my new regulator in the mail..
But, I got lots and lots of contamination on my weld beads (I shouldn't even say they were weld beads because it was just sh*te)..
Funny thing tho.. I unscrewed the end of off my own CGA-580 regulator and removed the threaded bushing (male threads).
I then did the same to the regulator that I borrowed that has the DIN 477 plug (it's a female Nut).
I tried using the shaft and female nut off of the DIN 477 regulator but the the threads are different and couldn't screw it on to my regulator port...
I then tried to use just the DIN477 female nut on the shaft that came on my CGA-580 regulator and voilà.. NO LEAKS!
Still, I kept trying to adjust the output flow on pressure reducer but it just wouldn't let me adjust to a decent working CFH...and still had lots of porosity..
Ended up having to put a valve on the line that feeds the argon to the machine so I could adjust it just enough so I could make a decent looking weld with no porosity!
Until I get the new reducer in the mail, I can't do any decent work.. and that is gonna take well over one week to get here!
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