Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
oldwelder
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    Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:43 pm

I reciently had a job that I had two 1" hydraulic lines that rubbed together from vibration and wore deep grooves in the side of the tube. They were off of a Caterpiller loader hydraulic system. I elected to try to fill the grooves with E-70S2 wire with the TIG system. I am using an old transformer type Miller Gold Star with 3/32 Lathanated tungsten, foot feed with about 150 amp max settings. The grooves were nearly 3/4" wide and not entirely through the tube at any point, it was still working when we found the problem while doing other repairs. I am not sure of the material of the tube, but suspect it might be 4130??
I watched Jody's video on welding 4130 and he suggested using E70S2 rod instead of 4130 to have better luck. I used some stringers and some weave type beads to build up the wall thickness to just above the original, then lightly flapper wheel the tops to blend it back near the original contour. At this point, the job is finished and back on the loader, but I worry about the heat affected zone and if I did more damage than good. Any comments? I guess I will know if it holds when it is back for repairs next time... Thanks. Gary.
noddybrian
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    Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm

Done many such repairs in the past but would not consider it these days except to get a machine moveable till a new part is available - sure there are many ways but I always brazed them with oxy acetylene - never had a problem but due to liability issues / insurance any visible damage to hydraulic lines steel or rubber should be replaced as if it's known there was a problem or repair & at a later date it bursts causing an accident you will be responsible.
Coldman
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While there may not be anything wrong with your repair, you may be liable if there was a problem down the track. If you cut the piece out and welded in a new piece to a wps to which you were qualified, then you can’t really get trouble later.


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Warrenh
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    Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:31 pm

I will try to describe this trick and not be too confusing. Instead of holding the torch with the handle pointing towards you, hold the torch at a 90 to your body with palm down. The torch handle would be pointing out to the right for a right handed welder. Put the cup on your workpiece in front of you. This will give you more room to walk the cup.

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cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

Warrenh wrote:I will try to describe this trick and not be too confusing. Instead of holding the torch with the handle pointing towards you, hold the torch at a 90 to your body with palm down. The torch handle would be pointing out to the right for a right handed welder. Put the cup on your workpiece in front of you. This will give you more room to walk the cup.

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Are you describing “torch perpendicular” to the seam?
Warrenh
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    Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:31 pm

The torch would be in line with the weld seam. Your hand would be rotated out to the right with the hand oriented with the palm down. I dont really know what to call this. This would be for horizontal seam. I will try to get a pic at work tomorrow. This isnt earth shattering news. I just dont know how to describe it.

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cj737
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    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

Warrenh wrote:The torch would be in line with the weld seam. Your hand would be rotated out to the right with the hand oriented with the palm down. I dont really know what to call this. This would be for horizontal seam. I will try to get a pic at work tomorrow. This isnt earth shattering news. I just dont know how to describe it.

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It’s as I interpreted it. It’s the way I do it, and probably anyone else familiar with the technique. Hand below the cup, walking uphill, torch perpendicular to the pipe/tube, but inline with your weld direction.
Saz
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weldin mike 27 wrote:The absolute thing that people new to welding need to be taught is that, unless you are walking the cup or welding big plate and pipe, you don't very often go too far with out stopping.(Instagram does not help with this at all) On big items, you can prop or rest the cup and a few different tricks, but you do not need to become a welding genius that can weld for a mile. Look at this picture, each of the distinct heat marks is a stop start. That's the beauty of tig, you can make a restart at any point with ease.

Keep up the good work,
Kindest regards, Mick
You said it all right there. Instagram makes it seem like EVERYONE knows how to get all the way around a piece of tubing without stopping........ Just go slow, take your time and practice. I'm not very good at it either, but I have gotten way better over the last year or so.
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