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I finally got time to take my 255EXT apart to see what I could do about the unstable arc on AC. One of the first things that I noticed, was the Gap Points for the HF start. Considering that one of the reasons I bought this welder, was it had 'Solid State HF' , I feel a bit 'ripped off'. Just to make sure, I double checked the manual that came with my welder.
Slight change of plans. 'Clean and check the gap' was added to the list of things to do. As was trying to locate a spec for what the 'Gapless Solid State HF system' should be gapped at. Given my previous lack of help from NEVERLAST support, I didn't waste my time calling them. Mark LugNut would probable try telling me that those points had nothing to do with HF. Sure, Mark, Sure. NOT!
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
It's like buying a new car with a window sticker saying it has a V8 engine, then finding out it is really a straight 6. The V8 they was talking about, was a can of vegetable juice they put in the trunk!
That isn't all that I found during the inspection and cleanup. I have more pictures, but I need to get my photo editing software from the shop first.
It is much better welding on AC after getting it back together. Not quite as good as it was when new, but close.
That isn't all that I found during the inspection and cleanup. I have more pictures, but I need to get my photo editing software from the shop first.
It is much better welding on AC after getting it back together. Not quite as good as it was when new, but close.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
Richard,
I have a subframe for a powered wheelchair to pick up at UPS in the morning. Some Factory welds failed, and I think a wheel came off. I need to repair it, and get it headed back to Indiana by the end of the day. From what I could see in the pictures of the failure, it was a MIG cold weld.
The subframe is steel, so shouldn't have been a problem to repair before fixing my welder. I just feel like the welder is more trustworthy now.
I will try a few welds on 0.025" Aluminum sheet, after I ship the subframe. That will really tell me how well it is working on AC.
I have a subframe for a powered wheelchair to pick up at UPS in the morning. Some Factory welds failed, and I think a wheel came off. I need to repair it, and get it headed back to Indiana by the end of the day. From what I could see in the pictures of the failure, it was a MIG cold weld.
The subframe is steel, so shouldn't have been a problem to repair before fixing my welder. I just feel like the welder is more trustworthy now.
I will try a few welds on 0.025" Aluminum sheet, after I ship the subframe. That will really tell me how well it is working on AC.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
When I was growing up, 'Solid State' meant it didn't have vacuum tubes in the electronics.BugHunter wrote:Maybe they figured if the parts didn't move, that qualifies as "Solid State". I mean, when I grew up, that's sorta what it meant was "no moving parts"...
bit of a stretch, but hey!
I lost all respect for the phrase about 45 years ago, when I saw a 'Solid State' lawn mower advertised.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
I'm pretty sure that was for a transistorized ignition, no points.VA-Sawyer wrote:When I was growing up, 'Solid State' meant it didn't have vacuum tubes in the electronics.BugHunter wrote:Maybe they figured if the parts didn't move, that qualifies as "Solid State". I mean, when I grew up, that's sorta what it meant was "no moving parts"...
bit of a stretch, but hey!
I lost all respect for the phrase about 45 years ago, when I saw a 'Solid State' lawn mower advertised.
BugHunter,
I don't remember seeing the transistorized modules on B&S engines till about 10 years later.
Possibly, but that was around '75 or '76.BugHunter wrote: I'm pretty sure that was for a transistorized ignition, no points.
I don't remember seeing the transistorized modules on B&S engines till about 10 years later.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
Yer gonna force me to go do a web search! 
I just can't remember. I want to say GM went to all electronic ignitions in either 74 or 78... Cadillac had done it previously, and if I recall correctly, had some models with no-points ignition in the late 60s. I could be mistaken.
Hey, if Neverlast's marketing term switch-a-roos bother you, how do you feel about Air compressor motors rated in "Compressor HP" You know what I mean, the "5HP" compressors that run off a 110V outlet.
I just can't remember. I want to say GM went to all electronic ignitions in either 74 or 78... Cadillac had done it previously, and if I recall correctly, had some models with no-points ignition in the late 60s. I could be mistaken.
Hey, if Neverlast's marketing term switch-a-roos bother you, how do you feel about Air compressor motors rated in "Compressor HP"
You know what I mean, the "5HP" compressors that run off a 110V outlet. "A Mind is a terrible thing to waste" 
I was sit'n here trying to recall back to what B&S engine I had with that "Solid State Ignition" and now I remember. Way back, I had a Massey Ferguson lawn tractor with a 10Hp Briggs on it which was "SSI". That was a late 60's tractor and I want to say it had points. Fact is, I sold it to a neighbor who restored it 100% and I could ask, but while it had some big electronic module on the side of the block, I'm almost certain it also had points.
I was sit'n here trying to recall back to what B&S engine I had with that "Solid State Ignition" and now I remember. Way back, I had a Massey Ferguson lawn tractor with a 10Hp Briggs on it which was "SSI". That was a late 60's tractor and I want to say it had points. Fact is, I sold it to a neighbor who restored it 100% and I could ask, but while it had some big electronic module on the side of the block, I'm almost certain it also had points.
I think there's some room in the term "solid state" for argument, but that definitely isn't a "gapless" setup.
Miller Syncrowave 250DX TIGRunner
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Ok, I got that wheelchair subframe welded back together, and shipped out. Even got a bit of paint on it, before stuffing it in the box.
Yes, it was originally stuck together using the MIG process, can't say it was welded. It was an ugly repair, but I will stand behind it. At least I can say it is welded now.
BugHunter,
I converted my '66 Corvair to transistor ignition about '77. I think the kit was around $60 or so. It sure did start better after the upgrade.
Yes, it was originally stuck together using the MIG process, can't say it was welded. It was an ugly repair, but I will stand behind it. At least I can say it is welded now.
BugHunter,
I converted my '66 Corvair to transistor ignition about '77. I think the kit was around $60 or so. It sure did start better after the upgrade.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
That's...shady to say the least, I actually did a quick google search to see if high end machine's like miller dynasties have a spark gap after all, and I don't think they do. I'd feel a bit ripped off too because the HF start is one of the biggest differences you'll ever notice between a new high end digital machine and a well used older transformer machine.
We have newer Syncrowave 250s at school but some of them simply don't want to light up nearly as easily as others and one of them would be more prone to shocking you through the torch than starting an arc on AC. In comparison the Dynasty 280 was an entirely different machine, it would light an arc effortlessly every time and never once shocked me, It also wasn't as prone to blowing holes in paper thin metal during arc starts.
We have newer Syncrowave 250s at school but some of them simply don't want to light up nearly as easily as others and one of them would be more prone to shocking you through the torch than starting an arc on AC. In comparison the Dynasty 280 was an entirely different machine, it would light an arc effortlessly every time and never once shocked me, It also wasn't as prone to blowing holes in paper thin metal during arc starts.
Richard,
The '66 was a Corsa. It had 4 single barrel carbs, produced 140 Hp out of 164 cubes. I bought a wrecked '65 that had the 180 Hp Turbo engine. Rebuilt that engine in my dorm room on the third floor. It got a few improvements during assembly. I used a 2 wheel cart to get it down stairs, and into my back seat. Drove up to grandparents farm, and swapped engines over the weekend, by myself. I actually built a wooden slide to get it out of the back seat.
It was a real 'sleeper'. Would NOT chirp a tire getting off the line, but give it a 2 count, then hang on. I could spin tires shifting into 3rd gear, and get a solid chirp shifting into 4th. I actually covered 110 miles in an hour going down I-75 with trucks and a CB. It was faster than the planes I was normally flying at the time. It pegged the 140 mph speedo more than once. Fun times! Not bad for only 164 cubic inches.
The '66 was a Corsa. It had 4 single barrel carbs, produced 140 Hp out of 164 cubes. I bought a wrecked '65 that had the 180 Hp Turbo engine. Rebuilt that engine in my dorm room on the third floor. It got a few improvements during assembly. I used a 2 wheel cart to get it down stairs, and into my back seat. Drove up to grandparents farm, and swapped engines over the weekend, by myself. I actually built a wooden slide to get it out of the back seat.
It was a real 'sleeper'. Would NOT chirp a tire getting off the line, but give it a 2 count, then hang on. I could spin tires shifting into 3rd gear, and get a solid chirp shifting into 4th. I actually covered 110 miles in an hour going down I-75 with trucks and a CB. It was faster than the planes I was normally flying at the time. It pegged the 140 mph speedo more than once. Fun times! Not bad for only 164 cubic inches.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
Getting this thread back on track......
I have never seen a quality electronics company leave heavy flux on a circuit board like this. Even Rosin flux will eventually lead to corrosion. I spent an hour with 99.9% IPA, and a bunch of Q-Tips, to remove the flux, embedded trash, and a bunch of solder balls. These are basic housekeeping type items that any reasonable electronics company would never allow to get out the door.
In this photo, I had already loosened the terminal screw on the left, to investigate what looked like corrosion. I ended up wire brushing both terminal lugs, and treating with DeOxit.
The row of screws at the top of this picture are holding power transistors against a large heat sink. There is another row behind the bottom of the circuit board. Of the 16 screws, 4 of them were more than 1/2 turn loose. Loose transistors don't effectivly transfer their heat to the heat sink. I plan on going back into the welder in the near future to address this issue. Quality Heat Transfer Compound isn't cheap, but I plan on remounting all of these transistors with the good stuff, and a bit of Loctite Blue on the screw threads.
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In this photo, I had already loosened the terminal screw on the left, to investigate what looked like corrosion. I ended up wire brushing both terminal lugs, and treating with DeOxit.
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No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
I mean, I feel for you, but at this point, all the positives and negatives of Everlast are well documented. Did you expect something to change this time around? Caveat emptor, as they say.
Every once in a while I look at their machines, and the specs look great, super tempting. Some folks report good luck, and I start to think, maybe I will take a shot on Everlast. But common sense kicks in and I look elsewhere. Until Everlast builds a reputation equal to or greater than USA Weld/HTP America, I just will continue to say no to the mail order business model. I would be more likely to take a risk on something from a brick and mortar store like Eastwood or Harbor Freight if I am trying to live within a tight budget. But YMMV.
Every once in a while I look at their machines, and the specs look great, super tempting. Some folks report good luck, and I start to think, maybe I will take a shot on Everlast. But common sense kicks in and I look elsewhere. Until Everlast builds a reputation equal to or greater than USA Weld/HTP America, I just will continue to say no to the mail order business model. I would be more likely to take a risk on something from a brick and mortar store like Eastwood or Harbor Freight if I am trying to live within a tight budget. But YMMV.
Multimatic 255
Did I expect to get Miller quality for 40% of the cost? No. Do I expect this welder to be working like new when it is 20+ years old? No, I think that would be unreasonable expectations.
However, when it comes with a 5 year Warranty, I expect the company to stand behind it for 60 months, not 6. When it develops a problem within the warranty period, I expect support from the company to resolve the problem. Their response, that my Tungsten was getting hot and causing high resistance, was total BS. When I said as much, Mark then started to blame the Ground Clamp. Funny how it works fine, even at twice the amperage on DC, but can't make a good connection on AC. When I said that I didn't think the clamp was the problem, he said that I was "too much of a know it all, and couldn't be helped" . I will never claim to know it all, but I do know enough to detect a manure spreader. And apparently, I know more about fixing the unstable AC arc on my welder, than he did. He might have 40 years of experience, but I'm thinking he may have repeated his first year of learning 40 times over.
Just like the 1977 Oldsmobile customers that received Chevy engines, and paid Oldsmobile prices, I paid for something that I didn't get. The word for that is FRAUD. Those owners took GM to court and won.
Neverlast claimed to be selling a welder with a gapless HF system. It is supposed to allow better starts at low power settings. They pulled the old 'bait and switch' on customers, which is against the law.
This welder worked as expected when new, and I was a satisfied customer. Then it developed a problem that got worse over time. I became less satisfied. When I got such lousy treatment from their customer support leader, I became a DIS-satisfied customer.
I have fixed my unit so that it is almost as good as new. That is good for me, but what about the other 255EXT owners that end up with similar problems. They may not have the skills to fix their units, and it is obvious the Neverlast won't fix them either.
However, when it comes with a 5 year Warranty, I expect the company to stand behind it for 60 months, not 6. When it develops a problem within the warranty period, I expect support from the company to resolve the problem. Their response, that my Tungsten was getting hot and causing high resistance, was total BS. When I said as much, Mark then started to blame the Ground Clamp. Funny how it works fine, even at twice the amperage on DC, but can't make a good connection on AC. When I said that I didn't think the clamp was the problem, he said that I was "too much of a know it all, and couldn't be helped" . I will never claim to know it all, but I do know enough to detect a manure spreader. And apparently, I know more about fixing the unstable AC arc on my welder, than he did. He might have 40 years of experience, but I'm thinking he may have repeated his first year of learning 40 times over.
Just like the 1977 Oldsmobile customers that received Chevy engines, and paid Oldsmobile prices, I paid for something that I didn't get. The word for that is FRAUD. Those owners took GM to court and won.
Neverlast claimed to be selling a welder with a gapless HF system. It is supposed to allow better starts at low power settings. They pulled the old 'bait and switch' on customers, which is against the law.
This welder worked as expected when new, and I was a satisfied customer. Then it developed a problem that got worse over time. I became less satisfied. When I got such lousy treatment from their customer support leader, I became a DIS-satisfied customer.
I have fixed my unit so that it is almost as good as new. That is good for me, but what about the other 255EXT owners that end up with similar problems. They may not have the skills to fix their units, and it is obvious the Neverlast won't fix them either.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
- MinnesotaDave
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
Caveat Venditor in this case in my opinion.Louie1961 wrote:I mean, I feel for you, but at this point, all the positives and negatives of Everlast are well documented. Did you expect something to change this time around? Caveat emptor, as they say.
Every once in a while I look at their machines, and the specs look great, super tempting. Some folks report good luck, and I start to think, maybe I will take a shot on Everlast. But common sense kicks in and I look elsewhere. Until Everlast builds a reputation equal to or greater than USA Weld/HTP America, I just will continue to say no to the mail order business model. I would be more likely to take a risk on something from a brick and mortar store like Eastwood or Harbor Freight if I am trying to live within a tight budget. But YMMV.
I won't ever buy from them. My memory of how many people they screwed over in the beginning is very long.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
I expect it would cost even more than that.
And what would I get if I won? A new circuit board? Take back my welder, and give me a refurbished one? Even if the court made them pay my legal expenses, it wouldn't be worth the risk.
Bottom line.... Neverlast just isn't worth the risk.
And what would I get if I won? A new circuit board? Take back my welder, and give me a refurbished one? Even if the court made them pay my legal expenses, it wouldn't be worth the risk.
Bottom line.... Neverlast just isn't worth the risk.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!