You advice will followed to the letter except the whisky since i will not follow the crack
but the floor.
Usually the game is lost becase the patience needed to do this kind of job the motorcycle
engine I mean . The difference betwen success and failure is a tiny detail that usually goes
unnoticed said great Napoleon
Bin it. Not worth repairing. The damage is far too extensive to ever hold up to the stresses in that area. Plus, there are numerous different “damaged sub assemblies” visible.
The bearing race for the geared shaft will never be true after welding. Thus the shaft will wear out the race no cause problems. There’s evidence of prior repairs using JB Weld (completely another problem) and there’s RTV used as a gasket surface (further evidence of mistreatment and damage). Either the current owner or prior owner thrashed and trashed that motor.
Bin it.
The bearing race for the geared shaft will never be true after welding. Thus the shaft will wear out the race no cause problems. There’s evidence of prior repairs using JB Weld (completely another problem) and there’s RTV used as a gasket surface (further evidence of mistreatment and damage). Either the current owner or prior owner thrashed and trashed that motor.
Bin it.
it looks like there is a piece missing (or not in pic).
i think its possible, but sod of a job. i would use the shaft in place and weld around it. might pay to remove the springs first so the heat doesn't screw them up.
the other catch is some gearboxes use a high Mg alloy thats like welding MG.
if its worth doing is a different story.
i think its possible, but sod of a job. i would use the shaft in place and weld around it. might pay to remove the springs first so the heat doesn't screw them up.
the other catch is some gearboxes use a high Mg alloy thats like welding MG.
if its worth doing is a different story.
tweak it until it breaks
It was hard work I did anything I knew to make it work decently , I took some pictures
of different stages . The rod is 5356 the metal was a little porous so I had to rework
or wash welding so it will be good . Im not proud but it ok
of different stages . The rod is 5356 the metal was a little porous so I had to rework
or wash welding so it will be good . Im not proud but it ok
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its not going to win any beauty awards, but as long as it stays together and doesn't leak i'll call it good.
contaminated alloy is never nice. on that sort of stuff i like to use the CK gas saver with the replaceable screens, cause it often pops and splatters the screens.
i'm assuming you will finish off the gasket areas.
hopefully you have grooved it out so no crap left in the crack which will make a stress riser.
contaminated alloy is never nice. on that sort of stuff i like to use the CK gas saver with the replaceable screens, cause it often pops and splatters the screens.
i'm assuming you will finish off the gasket areas.
hopefully you have grooved it out so no crap left in the crack which will make a stress riser.
tweak it until it breaks
The whole procedure took many hours and it was given all possible ideas for
solid welding with a lots of rework . I did not do a lot of grooving since i grind it
to fit.It was only 4 millimeter thick and i did both sides .Now i keep fingers crossed
as you use to say or pray to work.
solid welding with a lots of rework . I did not do a lot of grooving since i grind it
to fit.It was only 4 millimeter thick and i did both sides .Now i keep fingers crossed
as you use to say or pray to work.