Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Integrale-wrc
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    Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:29 pm

Hello,
I'm new here!
I write from Spain and a little domination TIG welding. My query is related to the use of welding in automotive industry.

I am preparing a car and wants to weld reinforcements in the bodywork. What tricks, tips for giving me this?

Greatings!
PS: excuse me if my English is bad. XD I hope to improve
ogorir
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    Waco, TX

I'd recommend only using TIG for external sheet metal and frame/suspension parts that can be done off-the-car. you're better off mig welding all the inner structure panels with plug welds than trying to TIG them together.

specific questions and pictures would help :)
Integrale-wrc
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    Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:29 pm

First of all, thank you for your response ogorir!

Now I'm welding a new panel floor (driver's side). I TIG welded because it is the only machine I have.
I know that the system welding MIG / MAG is much faster. My question is:

-For welding the floor inside with TIG as would be more advisable?
now I have no picture on the computer proces. Tomorrow I will upload the photos so you can advise me and have a more expert opinion

Thanks
ogorir
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how are you planning to put in the new floor pan? are you going to completely remove the old floor pan to the factory seams or splice it in? lap joint or butt joint?

have you ever tried welding plugs w/ your TIG machine? they're a lot slower, but its not too hard. without pictures, i can't say for sure, but I'd probably cut out all the rusty metal then trim your new floor pan to about 1" bigger than the hole you cut in the floor, pop some 3/16 holes (about 1 every inch) and plug the joint.

you should also use a seam sealing caulking on both the top and bottom if you're going to use a lap joint so no water can get between the panels an rust out the seam. I'd also advise using a weld through primer.
Integrale-wrc
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    Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:29 pm

We especially Sorry for the delay in replying! We thoroughly screen I've been busy with end of quarter at school.

The plate has been welded to overlap. I have tried the area of union with rust.

The holes that I've mentioned, are for the expansion?

Some photographs of the ground:

cut a piece of ground. Still missing a little more cut left:
Image

rotten pieces of sheet metal:
Image


the ground, black is the new top plate is a piece of original:
Image

this image is not good quality XD!

Image

you think ?

Thanks
ogorir
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this is what I was referring to with the holes and plug welding: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm

I'm a little confused by your first photo. are there two layers of floor there? it looks like you've cut out the top layer and welded a new patch in, but didn't clean/prep/prime the under layer. if that's the case, you're going to have a rust issue there in short order.

I can't really tell from the last two photos, but it looks like you stitched the edge of the panel all the way around. that will be fine as long as you trimmed the original panel back beyond all the rust. again, I can't tell in the photos if you've done that.

from what you've shown us, It will have no trouble going down the road, but it might have some rust issues again in the future.
Integrale-wrc
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    Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:29 pm

What you see in the first photograph ogorir, is a false floor!. It is located beneath a sheet to protect the gravel soil.

4cm cut above the rotted areas (up sheet healthy) what happens I have no more pictures because the phone had no more battery.

I hope that with this drawing you can understand what I did:

The first paint is a cross-sectional drawing (I hope to express it correctly in English); is a representation of the first picture you do not understand:

Image

the three floors you see are:
- Chassis ground lead role
- Protection for the low metal (very old metohd, for a age car 1972)
- Secondary plate in order to raise the driver's position.

photografy with signs:

Image

and I followed this method to weld sheet metal:

Image

- I first opposed welds to hold the sheet metal
- Then start "cord" (welding line??) from the inside out alternating sides for not overheat (in america and you call the welding line?)

ogirir, this method is correct? and oxide to the problem you mention, because it could be Due?

ogorir, feel unable to express myself better and thank you for your patience and help

Greatings,

PD: very very good method you send me the link!!! very thanks!

thanks
ogorir
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ok, I get it now. you might still have some issues with that 'false floor' rusting in the future, but your floor repair should be ok. I'd recommend putting a stitch in all 4 corners though (between 'weld point' 1 &3).

those 'weld points' are called tack welds

your green 'W.TIP' sections are called stitch welds

and I think what you're looking for with 'cord' is bead. we call what the welder lays down a weld bead. or just a 'weld.'


you should also clean and prime both sides of the joint and apply a seam sealer to both sides like this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Automotive-MMM ... 504&sr=1-1

you put a bead down along the weld and smear it in with your finger.
Integrale-wrc
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    Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:29 pm

ogorir very thanks again for your atention and your tips!

I'll show the process along next week
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