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Filler rod selection help
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Looking to purchase filler rods. Looking online before I resort to going to a welding store and paying to much. My question is what brands should I be looking for? I found filler rods of course but I can not find what grade of rod they are on any websites. Looking for E 70S-2 grade #4 or higher. No copper rods. Any help leading me in the right direction would be highly appreciated :D What would be a ball park good price? Thank you for your time!
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jcw
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Usaweld, weldingsupply are two i use. Butthey are localto me.
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Here's what you need.

I've bought several, and they are a good value.

Free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089VZR5K/ref ... DQBI4JESRC
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Thank you! I appreciate your time! Time to order and start practicing! :D
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Just curious, why did you not want standard copper coated rods?
Dave J.

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dirtmidget33
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I use Harris rod one of the reasons is I have two people that I weld stuff for that like to keep certificates of material used. I can go to Harris web site with my heat number and print that out for them for the specific lot of rods I bought. Might want to check out your LWS for filler prices. I buy 10lbs at a time runs me about 30-34 dollars for ER70S2 don't have to worry about shipping and my LWS doesn't charge a hazmat charge. I heard some of the LWS try that mine don't so just ask before buying. The more lbs you buy at a time the cheaper per pound price. I also buy a lot of stuff online but try to keep up relations with the LWS they know me by name. Common stuff I get from them but specialty weird things I get online. If I need filler they don't have I can call and have it in a under week from there warehouse, for instance they don't stock Harris rod but get it for me and no charge for shipping.
I am curious as to why you don't want copper coated rod also. I prefer it in my mind helps protect filler. The copper layer is so thin it won't effect anything. Please say the copper thing isn't due to the various versions of the Finch books LOL.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
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kiwi2wheels
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CMS 32 is uncoated. Unfortunately 1/16'' is their smallest. The stuff is magic. There is also # 7.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/me/weldingrod.html

http://www.aircraftspruce.eu/-7-welding-rod-1-16-.htm

Just noticed the # 7 isn't listed on the US site.
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I was told the copper coated rods put off hazardous fumes. If this is not true, it would be cheaper to get copper coated rods. I am a beginning TIG welder and would appreciate any help. Is a respirator needed with the copper rods or am I good to go without? Thanks for all the help! :)
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Blaze659 wrote:I was told the copper coated rods put off hazardous fumes. If this is not true, it would be cheaper to get copper coated rods. I am a beginning TIG welder and would appreciate any help. Is a respirator needed with the copper rods or am I good to go without? Thanks for all the help! :)
If the copper coating is hazardous then there are a whole lot of mig and tig welders that are gonna die....including me. :)

Just go to the nearest normal welding store and buy some normal ER70s-2 rods.
1/16" and 3/32" should do just fine.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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dirtmidget33 wrote: I am curious as to why you don't want copper coated rod also. I prefer it in my mind helps protect filler. The copper layer is so thin it won't effect anything. Please say the copper thing isn't due to the various versions of the Finch books LOL.
If I recall correctly, Finch wants people to buy hermetically sealed, certified tig rods for a very premium price :)

He says the rest are made of scrap metal....if I recall correctly...seem to remember a picture of a load of scrap crushed cars on a semi to go with the story.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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MM210
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Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
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dirtmidget33
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I agree with MinnesotaDave just get normal filler rod at your LWS sure the price will be right. Plan on 10lbs of each size rod he mentioned so 60-70 bucks and you will prolly be set for awhile. You might even be surprised your LWS might have rod without copper. I know mine carries uncoated rod just because they get rod from a local supplier and from what they told me was that the supplier in an effort to save money doesn't coat it anymore. I have them order in the Harris but that just comes from the warehouse in town. My LWS is rural but has several offices in a large area so they don't stock every thing at this store.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
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dirtmidget33
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MinnesotaDave wrote:
If I recall correctly, Finch wants people to buy hermetically sealed, certified tig rods for a very premium price :)

He says the rest are made of scrap metal....if I recall correctly...seem to remember a picture of a load of scrap crushed cars on a semi to go with the story.
The realty of this on factory floor.
1. Large pile of rods
2. Pull off a few vacuum package
3. Mark it engineering grade perfectly clean. made by god. Has Finch stamp of approval
4. Mark price up X4

Meanwhile the rest of that pile of rods put in plastic bag shoved in box and sold for 1/4 of price.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
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I have always thought that the copper coat was a result of the copper lube for pulling wire threw the dies.
Since copper oxidizes it sure isn't there to protect anything, may act somewhat as a "deoxidizer?".

I do buy uncoated when available,but not at premium prices
Perhaps a cert welder in a high grade industry can help.
Seema like a lot of myth surrounds copper coated tig welding rods!

Not an expert.
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:D Headed to get some rods. Thank you!
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TwentyFourSeven
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My local welding store is a rip of but their price on rods is not much different than online. They charged me $250 for a auto dark helmet I found online for $130 they also just charged me $50 for a box of 10 %2 Lanthanated electrodes 3/32 after looking online they are around $15 a box. I thought maybe they were a good brand made in the USA but nope, there made in China. I was pissed about the helmet and electrodes. They have been great helping me get in to a machine but I won't be buying much from them appart from gas and rods.
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dirtmidget33
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Best to look up values of things before going to LWS. Just ask about price if high ask if they can do better or price match so and so. If they come up with a reasonable price get it. Can see them being few dollars higher but if it's outrageous put it on shelf. Worst thing can happen they loose sale for the day.

They have price points for different costumers. One thing I noticed helps set price point is size of gas bottles. It seems if you have the largest argon gas bottle they carry everything in store cheaper than the guy with itty bitty tanks. Personally I can't see use for little tanks run out to soon and is cheaper to refill large bottles when you consider volume of gas your get.

I know weird torch parts I can get cheaper and faster online. There warehouse doesn't stock all those tiggly frillies that in reality I didn't need anyway but the collection boxes are screaming fill me up :lol:
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
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I live near an AirGas and often stop there for Hobart electrodes which I love. Also for specialty wire like Ni99. Their proprietary products are good and much cheaper than the Lincoln and other brands. Sometimes I call with details of a repair and ask for their recommendation of electrode (if stick) or filler metal and tungsten (if TIG).

I also use the Lincoln, Hobart, and ESAB product catalogs for guidance on filler metal selection and weld parameters.

CYberweld is another great online supply outift, as is Stoody and MuggyWeld.
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forrestderp
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If you are worried about the copper just take some sandpaper to it and wipe it down with acetone
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