Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
JDIGGS82
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Please critique
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Were you using some kind of stainless filler rod? What kind of steel is that? Slice it right down the middle to see how far into the root of the joint the bead went. :)
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Rick_H
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What were your settings? On a simple lap joint there really is no reason to have to pump/pulse the pedal.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
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JDIGGS82
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At Oscar just mild steel nothing special, might have to try that @ Rick I had the machine cranked was just screwing around id floor it ad some filler let up about halfway step forward a touch hit it and add filler
motox
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looks a lot like a smiling clam
nice welds
craig
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Looks good to me. Fairly consistant for sure. If you want any critique the only thing I can think of is way to hot. But since it is just playing around no big deal. Keep it up and I too would be interested in a cut and etch.
-Jonathan
JDIGGS82
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I had the machine cranked at like 310 amps and 1/16th filler rod I'll cut and etch it sometime this week Lol at the smiling clam Craig
Rick_H
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Well at 310 amps I bet that 1/16th filler just disappeared into the puddle, also explains the has that Johnathan mentioned. I'd be interested in the etch, always good info.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
motox
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are you left handed?
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
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hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
JDIGGS82
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Nope I'm a righty
JDIGGS82
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here's the results of the one posted etching another as we speak I did today same technique
jwright650
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JDIGGS82 wrote: here's the results of the one posted etching another as we speak I did today same technique
Curious about where the un-welded edge was on the top plate in that lap joint.
etch image.jpg
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or
etch image2.jpg
etch image2.jpg (60.97 KiB) Viewed 1040 times
John Wright
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jwright650 wrote:
JDIGGS82 wrote: here's the results of the one posted etching another as we speak I did today same technique
Curious about where the un-welded edge was on the top plate in that lap joint.
Looks to me to be the first pic.
The etching appears to show a large triangular area at the root that was not fused.
But lots of penetration farther out on the plate at the toes.

Looks like too much heat directed in the wrong area, and not enough into the root of the joint.
Dave J.

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jwright650
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MinnesotaDave wrote:
jwright650 wrote:
JDIGGS82 wrote: here's the results of the one posted etching another as we speak I did today same technique
Curious about where the un-welded edge was on the top plate in that lap joint.
Looks to me to be the first pic.
The etching appears to show a large triangular area at the root that was not fused.
But lots of penetration farther out on the plate at the toes.
Dave, Your observation was the reason for my questioning the joint prep before commenting. Also if the acid is left to develop/etch just a bit longer, the nugget would show up darker and the HAZ more defined.
Anyone here use red fuming nitric acid for polishing/etching mild steel? .... that stuff works fast.
John Wright
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JDIGGS82
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There really wasn't any joint prep I was just screwing around on break with some scrap trying to relearn myself this whole TIG thing and I was also pumping the pedal for the hell of it looks like I failed lol I'll try again. Tomorrow
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JDIGGS82 wrote:There really wasn't any joint prep I was just screwing around on break with some scrap trying to relearn myself this whole TIG thing and I was also pumping the pedal for the hell of it looks like I failed lol I'll try again. Tomorrow
I wouldn't bevel that lap joint anyway - just be sure to direct the arc a little more carefully and you'll have it nailed :)
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
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J,

If you repeat this experiment with the same style lap-joint, I suggest doing a root pass without filler. As you watch the metal fuse, you'll know you've broken the edge of that upper plate and melted it into the lower, then you can fill it out with any method, including the pulsed pedal, and get a much better etch.

I use this trick to weld sch. 5 pressure pipe. I fit it tight like a sanitary weld, and fuse it that way, so I know I have the full penetration, then I cap it with filler. I often have no way to inspect the root and have to be sure it's completely fused. On page 50 of "What I welded today..." you'll see a sch. 5 done that way with a rare picture of the root. It's not perfect by any means, but it's clear the fusion is complete.

Steve S
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JDIGGS82 wrote:There really wasn't any joint prep I was just screwing around on break with some scrap trying to relearn myself this whole TIG thing and I was also pumping the pedal for the hell of it looks like I failed lol I'll try again. Tomorrow
I would not say you failed at all. Look what you was able to show us. I think the looks are fine but I agree that the joint penetration is not there. I believe it could be from your torch not being focused on the joint but it might also be from your feeding action. You said you were using 1/16" filler and looking at the wide bead and the amperage you were using it is possible that your rapid feeding action caused cold lap. You might have been riding on top of the material due to the combination of high amps with the pulsing and to fast of a wire feed speed.

Keep it up man. Every time you post I can see improvement.
-Jonathan
JDIGGS82
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Appreciate the advice
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Dave, Your observation was the reason for my questioning the joint prep before commenting. Also if the acid is left to develop/etch just a bit longer, the nugget would show up darker and the HAZ more defined.
Anyone here use red fuming nitric acid for polishing/etching mild steel? .... that stuff works fast.
polishing it more will generally give you better resolution, shiny so you can't see any scratches. I have always used ammonium persulphate,it doesn't burn your skin and does a nice job. I always make sure I wash my hands throughly when I'm done though.
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JDIGGS82
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Thanks Scott ,Jonathan and everyone else I'm gonna give it another go tomorrow I'll etch if thus weekend so what is the proper torch angle for a joint such as this, any help is appreciated I've probably got around 8 hours back at it using breaks n what not im just glad I'm improving at all
jwright650
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JDIGGS82 wrote:There really wasn't any joint prep I was just screwing around on break with some scrap trying to relearn myself this whole TIG thing and I was also pumping the pedal for the hell of it looks like I failed lol I'll try again. Tomorrow
I thought maybe you had just picked up some scrap that was laying around and the edge may have not been square and was beveled...just curious due to the LOF at the root, yet good fusion farther out towards the toe.
John Wright
AWS Certified Welding Inspector
NDT Level II UT, VT, MT and PT
NACE CIP Level I Coating Inspector
JDIGGS82
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Yea threw a few more down today same joint different techniques Got it polished up some gotta polish a tad more then I'll etch it at the house! Hopefully my results are better lol again appreciate the input
Last edited by JDIGGS82 on Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
jwright650
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JDIGGS82 wrote:Yea threw a few more down today same joint different techniques hot it polished up some gotta polish a rad more then I'll etch it at the house! Hopefully my results are better lol again appreciate the input
Please post em up when you get them done...love to see how you're getting along with it.
John Wright
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NDT Level II UT, VT, MT and PT
NACE CIP Level I Coating Inspector
JDIGGS82
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Normal 200 amps diff angle
Normal 200 amps diff angle
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Normal feed 200 amps
Normal feed 200 amps
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Pedal pump
Pedal pump
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Fuse first then weld
Fuse first then weld
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With all the advice given I'd say the results are much better!
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