Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
DSM8
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I know this is beyond what your looking to do but if you really want to get yourself a well sorted heat sink bolt the steel plate you already have the vband fused to on a thick piece of AL. Is you use heat sink paste (buy at any computer store they used them between the processors and fans etc) you will get a good thermal connection between the bits and since AL absorbs heat faster than steel will maybe perform better.

I keep a 12x12x1.5" plate of AL around for just this kind of thing. I also have a thick copper plate I use at time depending on the circumstances.

Just my .02
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weldin mike 27 wrote:Oscar said, swap to .045 Filler rod, IE mig wire. And have a 1.6mm tungsten. Lots of numbers, easy to get confused.
Yeah I just caught that thanks, So stick with my 1/16" (1.6mm) tungsten and switch to a smaller filler metal. Can I ask the logic to that? I assume the larger filler metal would chill the puddle more? or is the larger filler harder to melt into the weld?
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J & J Speed Shop wrote:
weldin mike 27 wrote:Oscar said, swap to .045 Filler rod, IE mig wire. And have a 1.6mm tungsten. Lots of numbers, easy to get confused.
Yeah I just caught that thanks, So stick with my 1/16" (1.6mm) tungsten and switch to a smaller filler metal. Can I ask the logic to that? I assume the larger filler metal would chill the puddle more? or is the larger filler harder to melt into the weld?
It's all a balancing act. The larger filler would chill the puddle more, just as you said. But that can have a counter-effect of needing more amperage to keep the puddle fluid, which then heats up the base metal more, and when welding SS, this is of paramount importance. Otherwise you end up with a cold bead that only sits on the top of the weld joint without sufficient penetration. It can be done, but usually when you are able to do this successfully, you won't need to ask on how to do it. A tighter arc length keeps the puddle hot without unnecessarily heating up the surrounding metal. But to do this, you need to be able to feed a thinner filler between the tungsten tip and the puddle, or else you risk fouling up the tungsten if you touch the filler rod to it. I read that a lot of professional exhaust/header builders use 0.030-0.045" filler. This is because they have usually mastered torch manipulation where they can keep the arc length tight, while still attaining proper fusion depth, and feeding in the appropriate amount of filler. Feeding in a smaller filler faster can have the same effect of chilling the puddle to get a well defined bead appearance, without the penalty of trying to squeeze in a larger filler under an already hotter-than-necessary arc.
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GreinTime
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Have you ever thought about machining a flange out of aluminum? It would be fairly easy with a lathe. A friend of mine has quite a few turned in different sizes for the ones he welds and he just clamps the assembly on there and then has a little brace underneath to hold the collector level while he welds it.
#oneleggedproblems
-=Sam=-
GreinTime
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uploadfromtaptalk1423813466516.png
uploadfromtaptalk1423813466516.png (554.62 KiB) Viewed 2983 times
Incidentally this is what I was talking about, but not from the same person. I was just scrolling through Instagram and saw it!
#oneleggedproblems
-=Sam=-
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GreinTime wrote:Have you ever thought about machining a flange out of aluminum? It would be fairly easy with a lathe. A friend of mine has quite a few turned in different sizes for the ones he welds and he just clamps the assembly on there and then has a little brace underneath to hold the collector level while he welds it.
That's a good idea for me to produce! I just need to learn how to use my new Lathe/Mill/Drill machine :)
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GreinTime
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The one pictured above has a 1/8npt barb in it for purging as well, then you would only have to put foil over the ends or whatever.
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-=Sam=-
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GreinTime wrote:The one pictured above has a 1/8npt barb in it for purging as well, then you would only have to put foil over the ends or whatever.
Or use your new fancy Street or Strip Concept back purge kit!!
-Jonathan
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Well yeah, I would you clown lol. I don't have any of the flanges turned to v-bands, although I could probably use the lathe at the school pretty easily to make some.
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weldin mike 27 wrote:Oscar said, swap to .045 Filler rod, IE mig wire. And have a 1.6mm tungsten. Lots of numbers, easy to get confused.
I tried that (using MIG wire) as TIG filler by straightening, and it's just too much hassle. www.weldingsupply.com has TIG filler rod in 0.045" straight-cut lengths, in all sorts of flavors. "Filler Metal Queen" on Ebay sells 10lbs boxes of 308L 0.045" TIG filler rod at reasonable pricing.
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Wes917
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If this was me I'd be using a 3/32 sharpened like Oscar has shown with .045"

I would also recommend buying straight lengths in .045 & .030 for this type of work. Also I cut mine in half .
Turbocripple
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Sorry to bump an old thread, however while searching for information on v band welding I came across a solution that looks very promising. It is a two sided purge block and heat sink that attaches to the v band with the standard coupler. Hope that helps, Follow the link below

http://www.streetorstripconcept.com/bac ... -tools.php
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