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Sarge

I guess I will actually post it this time.... http://www.southwire.com/ProductCatalog/voltdrop.jsp
:oops:
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sschefer
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Electrically, I'm golden now. This spring I'm having another 200amps brought in from the pole so I don't have to rob from the house. Theres no third wire on the pole so three phase is out and they've only got one transformer on the pole so 460 is also not an option. I'm stuck with 240 split phase but that's o.k. because the 200amps that I get will be clear of any other circuits and it will be plenty.
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I think you've taken the right path. Simply put, electricity is MUCH cheaper than Helium. I often weld Al to 1/4 inch with 100% argon at work, but I have the benefit of "unlimited" electricity (460/3phase). At the current price of helium, it's cheaper to upgrade your panel.

Steve
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Steve,

Please excuse me if I follow your upgrade path.
It seems you just performed a complete circle with your equipment, pending a 200A upgrade to your shop in the very near future.
You spent a lot of cash to get to a temporary equipment state that could have supported your original Lincoln welder without any problem.
In fact, with that much power available, you could have purchased a used Synchrowave 250 or 351.

You did learn a lot in the process, and thanks for detailing everything you did.

Good luck with your new setup. :)
Wob
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Wob, I may never do the 200a upgrade. I don't need to unless I actually go and get the Dynasty 350 which I'm finding now that I probably don't need. My Everlast 250EX and a 80/20 mix seems to be just fine on 3/8" Al. I was learning and overthinking all along the way. Now that I've got some time under my belt things are different than I thought they would be. Stuff happens.

FYI, I run my 250EX maxed out on a 30amp breaker and haven't even warmed it. A lot of guy's say it can't be done but I'm doing it.

Oh, about spending a lot of cash, I'm 58 and have been working my ass off all my life.. I scrimped and saved and scrimped and saved and for what, a nice casket???? Who gives a crap about saving money now, I'm gonna have fun before I die. Did I mention I had a minor heart attack last Saturday.. yeah, makes you think hard about crap like this.. LOL.... :mrgreen:

I think I'll take a break from boat building this weekend and go play with my latest frivolous expenditure... It's a little dirty cuz I ran through my ass-hole neighbors yard this morning on the way to work... Just kidding. Ewwww that sure would feel good though... :mrgreen:

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Steve,

I have a tip (from experience; I use it daily at work) for conserving that expensive helium.

Lose the 1/4" compressed air line. A helium atom is the smallest thing in nature outside of a laboratory or the core of a star, smaller than a hydrogen molecule, and will leak out of damn near anything at an alarming rate.

Use DOT rated 1/4" air brake tubing (nylon) and appropriate compression fittings with inserts. Ask a local tractor/trailer shop or supplier. You will lose far less helium through "diffusion". Use a soap-and-water solution (or "SNOOP"(tm) if you can get it.) to trace all your lines and eliminate any leaks. And, obviously, set the helium percentage to the minimum to satisfy your needs.

Nice ride, BTW. Did you get the heated seats with that? They are awesome in northern winters!



Steve
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Otto, I went through the whole hose ordeal. I ended up with just what you recommend. The 1/4 air compressor hose not only leaks it also contaminates and pretty much sux's in general. I pump 120 psi to the mixer to make it work properly. When I'm done for the day, I back off the pressure gauges at the tank and then turn the tanks off. They hold on the high side just fine but I usualy forget to turn the flowmeter and the torch valve off so I lose what's in the hose. I've been fairly impressed by the lack of gas consumption. It's actually pretty close to 80/20 on the tanks. I'm down a little over 1/3 (250 tanks) on the argon after about 200' of weld on 1/4" at 18cfh.

The truck is the Lariat package aka XLT. It has all the bells and whistles (seat heaters, etc.) but not the full Kings Ranch package. Ford is pretty good about putting everything you need in the truck to add whatever you want later. Things like the alarm system, keyless remote and remote start were all installed I just needed to pay for the key fob and have it activated with a simple reprogramming of the ECU. Chevy/GMC seems to leave the stuff out completely and make you pay for the full option if you want it installed later.
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Steve,

Sorry for sounding abrupt, but I was hoping you kept the Lincoln (then we could share techniques) and added an inverter to your collection. It is always cool to have a vast selection of cool tools to play with. I agree with you about life timing and spending money, I am around the same age and often thinking 'should I..... or shouldn't I', that lasts for about 20 seconds then I make a bee line for the computer to place my orders.

I know one thing, if it's fun then it always cost more than you think, here is my example. Purchased the Lincoln Precision TIG 225 for 2060.00, no tax or shipping from Indiana Oxygen Company. As you know, the welder comes with a great set of accessories, and you think that is all you will need to spend. Then you realize, and start thinking seriously about all the other stuff you need to begin this new welding adventure the right way. So, my good deal at 2060.00 became 3200.00 instantly. Then, while I was learning to sharpen tungsten's using my Belt Grinder, I discovered that the expensive belts I purchased (Zirconia or Borazon from Norton), one lasted about 4 hours, but got the job done. As I read more, and became more aware of the details of this highly technical welding type I realized I would need to grind with diamond get a better more accurate taper. So I purchased a Sharpie from Arc-Zone (another 450 with extra grinding wheels). So, I am around 3700.00 now, and after spending all this money I can see one very important thing, my AL weld beads are getting better and better.

I was sorry to here about your medical event :( , I hope you are feeling better. And you are right when a traumatic event happens in your life you do start thinking about doing things you want to do in the time you have. As the Kansas song says " and all your money not another minute buys".

Now stop reading this forum and go out and play with the new metal melter. Try welding a razor blade to a coke can to a banana. :lol:

Wob
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Hey, Steve Schefer,

I decided to use your full name, because there are several Steves here, and I'm also a "Steve S."

Good for you! It's hard to make any system helium-tight. If your high-side gauge is holding overnight, your system has very low losses for helium.

Steve S.
:D
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Otto Nobedder wrote:Hey, Steve Schefer,

I decided to use your full name, because there are several Steves here, and I'm also a "Steve S."

Good for you! It's hard to make any system helium-tight. If your high-side gauge is holding overnight, your system has very low losses for helium.

Steve S.
:D
LOL, I just remembered how mad I was when the brand new Smith $250.00 high pressure guage set was leaking on the Helium side. After messing with it for a while I got it to seal pretty well and later realized I was darn lucky to get it to seal at all.

I'm sure you know this trick but for others who don't -- Always open your tank valves all the way to the stop. The stop is a seal also and anything in between is not sealed and will leak at the valve stem. You can lose a lot of gas through the course of a day and not be able to see or hear the leak.
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Steve,

Opening the gas valve all the way is something I learned in high school, and was reminded over the years by my local welding supply (Arc-Gas) when I visit them for more gas. I did not remember about the seal that functions when the tank valve is opened all the way, thanks for resetting my memory regarding that fact. By the way that is nice truck, should I post a picture of my 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser TTS ?

Wob
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WOB
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Quite true. Any high-pressure bottle has a built-in positive seal that works when the valve is fully opened.

Acetylene is the exception. It is a low pressure gas, dissolved in acetone, and the valve should only be open 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This allows you to stop the flow of fuel with one wrist movement in an emergency.

IMPORTANT!
FOR THOSE WHO DON'T KNOW:
If you ever have to lay your acetylene bottle on it's side, let it stand upright several hours before you crack that valve! You could contaminate your regulator with acetone, destroy seals in it, and over-pressure your lines. Acetylene gas above 15 PSI can spontaneously break down and combust in the lines without oxygen present.

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sschefer
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IMPORTANT!
FOR THOSE WHO DON'T KNOW:
If you ever have to lay your acetylene bottle on it's side, let it stand upright several hours before you crack that valve! You could contaminate your regulator with acetone, destroy seals in it, and over-pressure your lines. Acetylene gas above 15 PSI can spontaneously break down and combust in the lines without oxygen present.
Good post. I was taught that 40 years ago and never had to learn it the hard way.

Thanks
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Sarge

Great safety tip!!! I am so glad that safety is a prominent concern on this site. You guys are great! :D
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We would all probably go into shock if a survey was done and an actual number produced of the percentage of people out there working with high pressure and flammable gasses that are totally clueless to things such as that. Or to the proper procedure of how to start-up and then shut-down cutting torches. :o :shock:
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I would get a cheap non-contact infrared thermometer and check all the connections after a breaker opens. TIG to outlet, extension cord 'if used', breakers inside the panel, 50 amp feed connections inside the machine, wires. For some reason #8 does not sound right to pull 50 amps. Off hand i believe 50 amps is into those 'ought' sizes.
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jpence38 wrote:We would all probably go into shock if a survey was done and an actual number produced of the percentage of people out there working with high pressure and flammable gasses that are totally clueless to things such as that. Or to the proper procedure of how to start-up and then shut-down cutting torches. :o :shock:
Just look at any rig truck going down the road. How many people know it's illegal to drive with the gauges on? The bottles are supposed to be CAPPED for transport. I don't know of anyone getting a ticket for this, so a lot of cops don't know, either.
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Man, can I tell you stories about transportin acetylene. I didnt know no better ( I was 19 at the time) but now that I do, man I am SO lucky I didnt blow myself or someone else up. And then you see guys on the job with their B tanks layin down on their carts or lifts, prop em up, hook em up and fire away, they have no idea how dangerous that is.

Funny part is, our safety meetings every week-once a month our safety meeting is on CGC's(compressed gas cylinders). Everytime my apprentice would crank open the acetylene bottle and only open the oxy bottle half way I wanted to whack him upside the head with my ballpeen hammer.

Oh, and those bottles are supposed to be capped whenever they are not in use for more than 1 hour. Osha :p No leavin your cuttin torch setup hooked up all day :p
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kermdawg wrote:
Oh, and those bottles are supposed to be capped whenever they are not in use for more than 1 hour. Osha :p No leavin your cuttin torch setup hooked up all day :p

Oxy-acetylene bottles may be left "hooked up" up to 24 hours if on a certified "firewall" cart.

Steve
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Otto Nobedder,

When you were talking about the #8 wire being marginal for 50 Amps, it depends on the length of the wire.
The Lincoln Precision TIG 225 is provided with a #6 cord connected with plug for a 50A 240 VAC circuit.

When I was setting up power for my shop I had to run 220 VAC 180 feet to my welding shop. For this run I used #4.
From the panel in the shop I am running #8, stranded to increase the circular mill area of the cable (using SO Cord).
Stranded wire has the capacity to carry more current than a single solid copper wire.
The #8 length is approximately 25 feet.

The last 6 feet is the Lincoln's #6 power cord.

Wob
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@otto-

They told us 1 hour when I was working at the airport, but that might our state osha codes.

I ran my outlet about 100 feet to my garage (panel's on the other side of the house) with 8/2 solid wire cable. The electrician I had install it said it was about the minimum you could go for that length of run. Basically anything more than 100 feet he said I should run #6. But, im not welding at 200 amps on some aluminum either :p
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The 24 hr thing is (or at least was) a fed. OSHA thing. Nothing keeps a particular job site from establishing stricter rules for safety, and I can't think of a more "safety oriented" place than an airport.

As for the electrical issues, I may have been confused for one of the many other "Steve"s on here. I rarely comment on electrical issues beyond my range of certainty. I have experience in three-phase and split-phase wiring in many settings, but it's not my trade, and I must consult the tables for run v. current EVERY time I wire something.

If I actually commented on wire sizes, I was speaking out-of-turn, and probably under the influence of beer. :mrgreen:

Steve
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Beer is good, err was good, I gave it up 6 years ago. I don't miss it but I sure can't figure out where all them pretty girls I used to date went. All I ever see now are ugly ones that I would never date. Funny, they seem to have the same names as the pretty ones. Nah, just coincidence I'm sure.
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Steve,
They're all pretty when you've been happily married for twenty years. Flirting is not a crime. (Unless your wife catches you. ;) But after this long, she understands.

If you need to "drink 'till she's pretty", you have more than one problem! :lol:

Steve
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Alcohol is the cause of, and solution too, all of my lifes problems. The clerk at the liquor store said so.
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