idk, i use the wp-9 daily at 180amps welding aluminum...im sure if you use it long and hard and heat it up good it will burn up...just take breaks...
but yes, watercooled is the way to go, i had a wp-20 torch with a bernard 2500ss and it was awesome, never got hot....soon i will go back to water cooled
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i decided to post a video of me welding some stuff, i dont have any through lens stuff yet but in time i guess...
im welding the 2 aluminum pipes together that have been coped and tack welded in place. i have to crank these out fairly quick at work seeing as i have about 50 of them to do, when i have some free time i weld them a hair slower and the beads are super nice like the pics i post, but all of these get powdercoated black afterwards...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17-U2BE9wCs
im welding the 2 aluminum pipes together that have been coped and tack welded in place. i have to crank these out fairly quick at work seeing as i have about 50 of them to do, when i have some free time i weld them a hair slower and the beads are super nice like the pics i post, but all of these get powdercoated black afterwards...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17-U2BE9wCs
Nice looking work. You might consider picking up some leather welding sleeves to protect your arms. Harbor freight actually has a pair for just $4. (There may be "better quality" available elsewhere.) Great to throw on over your bare arms when your welding short sleeved.
I picked up a "stubby collet body" for my 150 amp air cooled that I am going to try, which basically adapts a 9/20 series cup to fit a 17 series torch. I'm looking forward to trying it.
I picked up a "stubby collet body" for my 150 amp air cooled that I am going to try, which basically adapts a 9/20 series cup to fit a 17 series torch. I'm looking forward to trying it.
fitment was my sub par...i was trying to have this part done before the end of the work day with only 1 .5 hours to fab and weld. going on the boss' car so i def should have made the fitment better on the seams.
usually i have stuff like this waterjet cut or sheared and the parts come out dead nuts and fit flawless with a perfect gap...even a 1/32 gap change in this thin of alum makes a world of difference in how the bead control is
either way im semi happy about it!, its a battery tray for a datsun 510
damn, i'm wishing for a 911 almost all of my life
about the second class, well u got some end craters that could be nicer
here's a 6g weld I did playn with some pulse setings, 304ss
about the second class, well u got some end craters that could be nicer
here's a 6g weld I did playn with some pulse setings, 304ss
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weld looks straight, looks a little hot to me... how thick is that material?
when i weld stainless i will literally do 5 beads and stop postflow and start again after a 30 seconds for cooling. and you have seen my stainless welds
when i weld stainless i will literally do 5 beads and stop postflow and start again after a 30 seconds for cooling. and you have seen my stainless welds
Hey grewru,
Where did you find a hood big enough to fit over that inflated head of yours? Just curious, because your are an average welder at best.
Where did you find a hood big enough to fit over that inflated head of yours? Just curious, because your are an average welder at best.
Jim
Pipefitter/Weldor out of Local 396
Millermatic 252
Dynasty 200DX
Maxstar 150 STL
Spoolmate 100
Hypertherm Powermax 85
Miller Digital Elite
JD2 Model 32 Bender
Emerson 7120 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
Oxy-Gas Torch outfit
Generac XP8000E Generator
Pipefitter/Weldor out of Local 396
Millermatic 252
Dynasty 200DX
Maxstar 150 STL
Spoolmate 100
Hypertherm Powermax 85
Miller Digital Elite
JD2 Model 32 Bender
Emerson 7120 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
Oxy-Gas Torch outfit
Generac XP8000E Generator
it's 1,5mm wall , no gap 40A L1 , ~28 L2 , 1,5 sec l1 and 0,2 sec l2.
but that was just training in 6g pos and goofing with pulse. almost never had to weld anything at 45 in a factory, some 800 OD steam pipes ..
inside looks like this
but that was just training in 6g pos and goofing with pulse. almost never had to weld anything at 45 in a factory, some 800 OD steam pipes ..
inside looks like this
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- Photo0106s.JPG (31.06 KiB) Viewed 1125 times
it's not hot at all, the wall is very thin, 1 pass , freehand.gurew wrote:weld looks straight, looks a little hot to me... how thick is that material?
when i weld stainless i will literally do 5 beads and stop postflow and start again after a 30 seconds for cooling. and you have seen my stainless welds
if you stop after 5 beads will take too long to weld one pipe and increase the chance for craters, let's just say it would be luck to pass an xray, some ppl (walkers) make only one stop, but they work on the bench and i get those hanging from a scafold jobs.
i know in the automotive industry, welds with that color would create cracks later on a turbo manifold out of sch40 308 SS pipe, entire wastegate runners would break off etc... i havent had the chance to xray any of my welds but ive yet to have a manifold come back i would think that 1600-1800 degrees under stress of a turbo and pressures from the exhaust pulses would be in the "extreme" category
is dat a known (scientific) fact or something somebody told you? i belive the thikness of the bead has a bigger influence in failure of high heat sistems then a hot(ish) weld, and i've never seen a fully penetrated weld that looks golden on the outside, not on 1,5-2mm ss and not without backpurge
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