mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
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Dblock55
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    Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:46 am

Hey all,

Im pretty new to welding and have been practicing a bit recently with a lincoln electric 180 welder w/ a 230v power supply. been practicing on 1.75" by 0.95" DOM tubing as im fixing to weld up a roll cage, because racecar. According to the chart on the welder ideal setting are 5 WS and E for Voltage... been running it on 4.5WS and E for voltage as i was getting a lot of splatter at 5 WS. Using 75/25 argon co2 mix for shielding. Here are some of my samples. Any advice is appreciated! Cleaned the first weld up with a wire wheel which is why its so chrome looking... here they are, didnt want to compress images so here are the direct links.

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1zkcxytk.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psogonxu5x.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psnqsxt4xl.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...pszja69dfp.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psjv1wdb0l.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psxwqnafik.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...pslveeaq2q.jpg
Farmwelding
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I would love to help but for some reason I keep getting issues when I go to look at your pictures. You might want to try posting them directly here.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
TauntDevil
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Farmwelding wrote:I would love to help but for some reason I keep getting issues when I go to look at your pictures. You might want to try posting them directly here.
Getting the same error. Page wont load for the photo links.

I know there is not much info out there for tube welding techniques since most people weld plates, etc.
Most of the time, you kind of have to just wing it with practicing and try to figure it out. Or at least that has been my experience, not much talk about tricks for tubes especially small tubes such as 2" or smaller.

Something I always work with is 1.5" x 0.095 DOM tubing for bash bars, etc on cars. When learning, took me forever to get good welds on notches, etc. Now my main issue is just rotating around the tube in an awkward position to keep one consistent weld... :/
I am not a professional and am not trying to be. I am just trying to be better than my previous self.
Dblock55
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^^^^ Sorry the links are bust for some reason.
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Farmwelding
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Not too bad. One main thing I notice is inconsistent travel speed. Work on keeping a steady flow with your hands. Another thing-running downhill I assume and stitch welding quarters. Other thing for frames and chassis is to check and see penetration with a cut and etch.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
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Dblock55 wrote:Hey all,

Im pretty new to welding and have been practicing a bit recently with a lincoln electric 180 welder w/ a 230v power supply. been practicing on 1.75" by 0.95" DOM tubing as im fixing to weld up a roll cage, because racecar. According to the chart on the welder ideal setting are 5 WS and E for Voltage... been running it on 4.5WS and E for voltage as i was getting a lot of splatter at 5 WS. Using 75/25 argon co2 mix for shielding. Here are some of my samples. Any advice is appreciated! Cleaned the first weld up with a wire wheel which is why its so chrome looking... here they are, didnt want to compress images so here are the direct links.
I really would like to help, but welding on a race car roll cage when you're new is really a terrible idea.

My best advice, and I say this only because of the importance of what you're doing, is to seek a reputable builder for your roll cage.

There are much better projects to hone your skills on that will still be a lot of fun to do.

This is only my opinion and I wish you the best of luck.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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Coldman
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I agree with Dave. If someone's life depends on it, welding should be done by someone skilled and/or certified.

As a learning exercise, you can cut up the piece in the pic and etch a macro for inspection to see how good your fusion is etc. Then do another tee joint but with longer legs, take it outside on a board or pallet and beat the hell out it with the BFH to see how it breaks. This will tell you what it stronger - the tube or your weld.
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
Farmwelding
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Work in some basic plate first and let us see those as well. Get a solid rhythm and pattern before working in anything critical. Listened to one of the tips and tricks podcasts yesterday where they were talking about care about what you do. If a weld fails and you cause harm to anyone even if you aren't liable, that's is the worst feeling ever. Building a bridge or frame of a vehicle. I don't know about most people but I know sure as hell I want the gun on the end of that rod or gun to know what he is doing and cares. Take the Minneapolis bridge a few years back. A coupe of guys failed to do the braces under the bridge properly and sure enough people got hurt. Keep up the work and keep posting for us to help you. But if it is something that has to happen tomorrow or soon than take the others advice and hire it done.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Dblock55
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^^^ Dave, Coldman,

Thanks for the replies and your honesty. I expected this type of response and it is warranted. Ive set my mind on doing this and believe it can be accomplished safely. Im really devoted to the project and since it is MY racecar id be assuming all liability. If the welds are sub-par itll never pass SCCA inspection and this whole project will prove me wrong and you right! That being said im taking my time with practice and trying to get it right.
Although it goes against your best judgement id really appreciate some advice from you guys as getting expert advice can only help. Understand if you dont want to though.
Ill cut those apart and check it out tomorrow. Maybe mock something up and throw it under my press, although an shock load would be more representative of the actual stress it would experience rather than a gradually increasing concentrated load.
Thanks!
Dblock55
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Farmwelding wrote:Work in some basic plate first and let us see those as well. Get a solid rhythm and pattern before working in anything critical. Listened to one of the tips and tricks podcasts yesterday where they were talking about care about what you do. If a weld fails and you cause harm to anyone even if you aren't liable, that's is the worst feeling ever. Building a bridge or frame of a vehicle. I don't know about most people but I know sure as hell I want the gun on the end of that rod or gun to know what he is doing and cares. Take the Minneapolis bridge a few years back. A coupe of guys failed to do the braces under the bridge properly and sure enough people got hurt. Keep up the work and keep posting for us to help you. But if it is something that has to happen tomorrow or soon than take the others advice and hire it done.
Ill post some pictures up tomorrow. Ive done a ton of welding on sheet steel, then some fillet welds. Felt like i was ready to move on to the tubing which is where im at now. No rush to complete, want it done right, not fast.
Farmwelding
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Dblock55 wrote:^^^ Dave, Coldman,

Thanks for the replies and your honesty. I expected this type of response and it is warranted. Ive set my mind on doing this and believe it can be accomplished safely. Im really devoted to the project and since it is MY racecar id be assuming all liability. If the welds are sub-par itll never pass SCCA inspection and this whole project will prove me wrong and you right! That being said im taking my time with practice and trying to get it right.
Although it goes against your best judgement id really appreciate some advice from you guys as getting expert advice can only help. Understand if you dont want to though.
Ill cut those apart and check it out tomorrow. Maybe mock something up and throw it under my press, although an shock load would be more representative of the actual stress it would experience rather than a gradually increasing concentrated load.
Thanks!
Like cold man said. Beat the heck out of the joint with a sledge hammer a few times. That is a good simulation of high impact like on a race car. Also, do you know anyone who welds and is certified. If you do you may want to consult them as well for quicker response and so you can see them working and follow their reccomendations and see what they do. A bunch of guys can tell you what to do but we can't Show you very easily.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
PeteM
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If you're really determined-

Oxidation on toes and surface of weld- I read that as low gas flow/poor coverage.I'd turn up the flow a little and maybe look into a wider nozzle than the standard one that comes with the little magnum guns.

Open craters- since you're working on tube and going round in a circle/conic section, some people leave the crater to tie into. Some good advice I agree with on critical welds is to grind the crater to avoid creating a void where the arc extinguished.

Tie ins- You really need to nail those. I'd practice on flat and fillets by doing a bunch of 2 in. welds spaced 2 in. apart, then starting at the crater of the previous weld, tie in to the next one. Nail that center (eye) of the crater, and make them as smooth as possible, then snap into a push to tie in to the start of the next one. Run right into it and get a good melt.

You absolutely can not have open craters and bad tie ins on any type of critical welds.

Good luck, and practice,practice,practice.
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