Like cold man said. Beat the heck out of the joint with a sledge hammer a few times. That is a good simulation of high impact like on a race car. Also, do you know anyone who welds and is certified. If you do you may want to consult them as well for quicker response and so you can see them working and follow their reccomendations and see what they do. A bunch of guys can tell you what to do but we can't Show you very easily.Dblock55 wrote:^^^ Dave, Coldman,
Thanks for the replies and your honesty. I expected this type of response and it is warranted. Ive set my mind on doing this and believe it can be accomplished safely. Im really devoted to the project and since it is MY racecar id be assuming all liability. If the welds are sub-par itll never pass SCCA inspection and this whole project will prove me wrong and you right! That being said im taking my time with practice and trying to get it right.
Although it goes against your best judgement id really appreciate some advice from you guys as getting expert advice can only help. Understand if you dont want to though.
Ill cut those apart and check it out tomorrow. Maybe mock something up and throw it under my press, although an shock load would be more representative of the actual stress it would experience rather than a gradually increasing concentrated load.
Thanks!
mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
Farmwelding
- Farmwelding
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:37 pm
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Location:Wisconsin
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
If you're really determined-
Oxidation on toes and surface of weld- I read that as low gas flow/poor coverage.I'd turn up the flow a little and maybe look into a wider nozzle than the standard one that comes with the little magnum guns.
Open craters- since you're working on tube and going round in a circle/conic section, some people leave the crater to tie into. Some good advice I agree with on critical welds is to grind the crater to avoid creating a void where the arc extinguished.
Tie ins- You really need to nail those. I'd practice on flat and fillets by doing a bunch of 2 in. welds spaced 2 in. apart, then starting at the crater of the previous weld, tie in to the next one. Nail that center (eye) of the crater, and make them as smooth as possible, then snap into a push to tie in to the start of the next one. Run right into it and get a good melt.
You absolutely can not have open craters and bad tie ins on any type of critical welds.
Good luck, and practice,practice,practice.
Oxidation on toes and surface of weld- I read that as low gas flow/poor coverage.I'd turn up the flow a little and maybe look into a wider nozzle than the standard one that comes with the little magnum guns.
Open craters- since you're working on tube and going round in a circle/conic section, some people leave the crater to tie into. Some good advice I agree with on critical welds is to grind the crater to avoid creating a void where the arc extinguished.
Tie ins- You really need to nail those. I'd practice on flat and fillets by doing a bunch of 2 in. welds spaced 2 in. apart, then starting at the crater of the previous weld, tie in to the next one. Nail that center (eye) of the crater, and make them as smooth as possible, then snap into a push to tie in to the start of the next one. Run right into it and get a good melt.
You absolutely can not have open craters and bad tie ins on any type of critical welds.
Good luck, and practice,practice,practice.
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