Yes a 2x72 belt sander as well as a couple of others like a bandsaw and the like.Artie F. Emm wrote:By any chance, are you thinking of a belt grinder?SuperNewb68 wrote:...some angle and square/rectangle tube welding projects for making some machine tools to help in bladesmithing and woodworking projects...
Part 2 of your original post was "which is best for a newbie". Since $$$ are a concern, flux core is likely the low cost entry point, since you don't need to acquire shielding gas (which includes buying or renting the cylinder). Thinking strategically, tho, as someone mentioned earlier some machines will do both solid wire and flux core. You might consider a machine that does both, in case you want to have that ability later.
mig and flux core tips and techniques, equipment, filler metal
SuperNewb68
- SuperNewb68
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WeldItUp - Thanks. I use the spray on every weld and on the tip also and it works. I have watched videos of people using spray and they usually pour on a puddle! All you need is a mist to dampen the immediate area and virtually no BB's. A quick hit with a wire wheel in a high speed drill and clean. I just built a landscape trailer and had less spatter than I would have had with just a few welds without it. I have tried different brands but the best I have found is Power Weld brand handled by TSC in Canada where I am. It's made in the USA but may be marketed under another name as someone on another post tried to find it with no luck. It's paint compatable, very little residue if used properly. I just do a quick once over with a wire wheel,blow off,tack cloth if it's fussy,prime and paint with no problems. Getting a bit long winded but I hope it helps.
- Otto Nobedder
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I have to agree with Dave. While flux-cure is definitely the less expensive entry point, choosing a machine that can do either is an excellent idea, as it gives you the opportunity to be more versatile in the future.
Another great advantage of a gas-capable machine is that it usually has the circuitry to keep the welding tip de-energized when not welding. Many entry-level flux-core only machines have live voltage at the tip all the time.
If you have a budget figure in mind, we can make some suggestions. I'm not even averse to Harbor Freight stuff, except for their absolute entry-level cheap-o stuff. I'll even make one exception to that, as I made a repair for my brother-in-law using his 70 amp Harbor Freight stick welder. I had to use 1/16 rod to pull it off, mind you, but it worked.
Steve
Another great advantage of a gas-capable machine is that it usually has the circuitry to keep the welding tip de-energized when not welding. Many entry-level flux-core only machines have live voltage at the tip all the time.
If you have a budget figure in mind, we can make some suggestions. I'm not even averse to Harbor Freight stuff, except for their absolute entry-level cheap-o stuff. I'll even make one exception to that, as I made a repair for my brother-in-law using his 70 amp Harbor Freight stick welder. I had to use 1/16 rod to pull it off, mind you, but it worked.
Steve
WeldItUp
- WeldItUp
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Homeboy Thanks for the info and description! I will let you know how it goes once I get time to tackle my next projecthomeboy wrote:WeldItUp - Thanks. I use the spray on every weld and on the tip also and it works. I have watched videos of people using spray and they usually pour on a puddle! All you need is a mist to dampen the immediate area and virtually no BB's. A quick hit with a wire wheel in a high speed drill and clean. I just built a landscape trailer and had less spatter than I would have had with just a few welds without it. I have tried different brands but the best I have found is Power Weld brand handled by TSC in Canada where I am. It's made in the USA but may be marketed under another name as someone on another post tried to find it with no luck. It's paint compatable, very little residue if used properly. I just do a quick once over with a wire wheel,blow off,tack cloth if it's fussy,prime and paint with no problems. Getting a bit long winded but I hope it helps.
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I look forward to hearing how you make out. Couple more tips I found thru experience. Get a thin spray-shake the can and it should sound almost like water. I got one thicker type and it must be just for tips because it was way too messy. Get one of those can triggers that clips to the can which makes it MUCH easier to handle with gloves on. A small round magnetic parts tray works well when on a larger project to hold the can from falling. It may seem a bit of a pain until your used to it but it's more than made up by much easier and faster cleanup and neater welds. Another plus - I almost never have to grind clean my welding tables because of the bit of overspray.
- weldin mike 27
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Sorry if this confuses you even more...but there is also gas shielded flux core. They do not create a shield for themselves and require gas, usually 75%argon25%c02 to protect from atmosphere . These are wires like lincoln e712c and e71m The c stands for carbon dioxide and the m stands for mixed gas. Their flux core is used to scavenge impurities, form a slag to protect and shape the molten metal and add elements to the weld. Short answer is not all flux core is self shielded. Do not assume so, you will be in for a shock.
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