Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi.
The Borniguard ceramic sounds good.
Anybody know where in Detroit I can buy some??

I used a similar product in Europe at a car plant but have not seen it in the States.

MigMac wrote:Hi.
The Borniguard ceramic sounds good.
Anybody know where in Detroit I can buy some??

I used a similar product in Europe at a car plant but have not seen it in the States.

Welcome to the site Mac. You might try sending them a message on "contact" page of their web site. http://www.borniguard.com/ Tell them your in Detroit and maybe they can tell you a local shop that carries it.

Hi
Thanks. I found it in Ann Arbor.
See http://aaweldingsupply.com/products/weld-shield

$25 a can...

Regards

Update of ceramic spatter guard; I have been using this product off and on for a while. I am on my second can and am very pleased. While I have not done a lot of spray arc welding, it seems to hold up well to the heat. I have personally talked to Len Allison myself and will say he seems to be a great guy. I highly recommend this product for anyone from the hobbiest to pro. I feel it will save one money in the long run.
-Jonathan

Jonathan,

Thank you for the review.

Have you used it in short-circuit transfer, and does it hold up as well there?

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:Jonathan,

Thank you for the review.

Have you used it in short-circuit transfer, and does it hold up as well there?

Steve S

Steve,
I have been mostly using it in short-circuit transfer. I have a Bernard eliptical set up I have done nothing but short circuit on and it has help up extremely well. I would say one/two applications will last a 8 hour shift just fine, as long as you don't scratch it all off in cleaning. It takes so very little effort to clean the nozzle. I did do the pipes found toward the end in "what I welded today" in spray and it held up fine. I am beginning to wonder though, if the caramic transfers heat to the neck and gun. In the pic I am using .035 self shield on a friends very rusty trailer and while the ceramic spray is fine my plastic is not. It could be that I am just pushing the gun to much, don't care for the M25 but I didn't want to drag out the 25' gun. I would guess that there is 3-4 hours of actual weld time in the pic. I want to test it at 250+ amps but have not had the opportunity yet.
-Jonathan

Superiorwelding wrote:

Otto Nobedder wrote:Jonathan,

Thank you for the review.

Have you used it in short-circuit transfer, and does it hold up as well there?

Steve S

Steve,
I have been mostly using it in short-circuit transfer. I have a Bernard eliptical set up I have done nothing but short circuit on and it has help up extremely well. I would say one/two applications will last a 8 hour shift just fine, as long as you don't scratch it all off in cleaning. It takes so very little effort to clean the nozzle. I did do the pipes found toward the end in "what I welded today" in spray and it held up fine. I am beginning to wonder though, if the caramic transfers heat to the neck and gun. In the pic I am using .035 self shield on a friends very rusty trailer and while the ceramic spray is fine my plastic is not. It could be that I am just pushing the gun to much, don't care for the M25 but I didn't want to drag out the 25' gun. I would guess that there is 3-4 hours of actual weld time in the pic. I want to test it at 250+ amps but have not had the opportunity yet.
-Jonathan

from your pic i looks like your spraying the entire nozzle on the gun? next time just spray the last inch or so of the nozzle inside and out let it dry and see if it works better

mikek wrote:

Superiorwelding wrote:

Otto Nobedder wrote:Jonathan,

Thank you for the review.

Have you used it in short-circuit transfer, and does it hold up as well there?

Steve S

Steve,
I have been mostly using it in short-circuit transfer. I have a Bernard eliptical set up I have done nothing but short circuit on and it has help up extremely well. I would say one/two applications will last a 8 hour shift just fine, as long as you don't scratch it all off in cleaning. It takes so very little effort to clean the nozzle. I did do the pipes found toward the end in "what I welded today" in spray and it held up fine. I am beginning to wonder though, if the caramic transfers heat to the neck and gun. In the pic I am using .035 self shield on a friends very rusty trailer and while the ceramic spray is fine my plastic is not. It could be that I am just pushing the gun to much, don't care for the M25 but I didn't want to drag out the 25' gun. I would guess that there is 3-4 hours of actual weld time in the pic. I want to test it at 250+ amps but have not had the opportunity yet.
-Jonathan

from your pic i looks like your spraying the entire nozzle on the gun? next time just spray the last inch or so of the nozzle inside and out let it dry and see if it works better

I will do that! Do you have any experience with this or a similar product?
-Jonathan

similar product, cant remember what brand anymore. but if you use it properly the fiberglass in the base of the cone will wear out before the cone shows much wear. also did not have much luck spraying the tip (even blocking off the wire hole) good luck have fun!

How is it doing now, any more test results?

Matt,
I have been using the nozzle pictures since I last posted in short arc and have not reapplied an have not had any problems. I am only welding short runs do I am not pushing it by any means.
I can still honestly recommend this product to anyone (and no I don't get a kickback for the advertising)
-Jonathan

I was wondering, I don't run my mig enough to need a nozzle guard. I was just curious about how it was going for you.

Tried some new applications

Keeping laser cut tips and fixtures clean

Keeping laser fixture clean

I use Loctite SF7900 ceramic coating. http://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/spider ... 86|||22.99 cheapest I've found it.

Alleycat wrote:

Bluegrass weld n can.jpg

Tried some new applications

I think you are misunderstanding it's use? It's not supposed to bee applied to the area you are welding, it's to apply to surfaces you don't want weld spatter to stick to (nozzles, tips, clamps, table etc). It looks like you welded through it? That's going to affect the quality of the weld. You now have ceramic "slag" trapped in your weld.

And very expensive way. Use Anti-spatter for what you are doing.

Mick

Hi
I agree (to an extent) with Mike 27. Using ceramic coating as regular anti spatter is extremely expensive.
However there are (must be) cases where the job justifies the cost. I guess you could mask off the parts pre weld to stop spatter on the job but avoid the actual weld.

Re the costs.....I think the BorNiGuard can has 11 fluid ounces while Loctite has about 9.5.so as far as one can being cheaper you have to consider how many ounces you get for your buck.

I've tried both and the BorNiGuard builds a thicker film faster, so it likely has higher ceramic solids.
By the way Southpaw... What colour is your Loctite. I thought it should be white like the borniguard but My Loctite was a pink-ish coating from the first can, but not the next. ?

Weld on .....

regards

MigMac

Spraying this stuff on jobs and jigs should only be in high temp situations. Or where a highly expensive part must be protected. Other than that, the water based anti spatter is fine. (And non toxic)

Mick

MigMac wrote:Hi
I agree (to an extent) with Mike 27. Using ceramic coating as regular anti spatter is extremely expensive.
However there are (must be) cases where the job justifies the cost. I guess you could mask off the parts pre weld to stop spatter on the job but avoid the actual weld.

Re the costs.....I think the BorNiGuard can has 11 fluid ounces while Loctite has about 9.5.so as far as one can being cheaper you have to consider how many ounces you get for your buck.

I've tried both and the BorNiGuard builds a thicker film faster, so it likely has higher ceramic solids.
By the way Southpaw... What colour is your Loctite. I thought it should be white like the borniguard but My Loctite was a pink-ish coating from the first can, but not the next. ?

Weld on .....

regards

MigMac

Well I'm color blind, but it's not white, It looks like a light grey primer which you might call light pink I suppose

Hi
Curiosity got the better of me and I asked around.
I'm told (may not be true) that this happens when the cans are old and the solvents (chemicals) in the can start to corrode the protective paint on the inside of the aerosol.
It seems the inside of the aerosol has a coat of paint to protect the metal can from damage from the stuff inside.
When the cans are old this paint dissolves into the ceramic the color changes.

May be true maybe bull...


Regards

Tried the BorNiGuard on laser table slats. Four rows were coated for side-by-side comparison.

Alleycat wrote:Tried the BorNiGuard on laser table slats. Four rows were coated for side-by-side comparison.

I'd call that a definitive result!

Steve S

Ceramic coating is getting popular in oxy-fuel cutting applications. Usual benefits - reduced downtime and consumables.