Welding Tips and Tricks

You will have less explaining to do when you meet with Saint Peter. You are a good guy.

I haven't yet tried aluminum bronze.

I proudly show off my first cast iron repair C. 1970 with a BIG welding tip on a cheap oxy/acetylene set. I bought some cast iron filler. Mom had a very ornate wood stove she bought in an antique store for $35.00. Father was beside himself that she wasted her money on a broken stove. I knew nothing of cleaning, TIG cathodic etching, or anything of the sort. I did have a very good grasp of the value of pre heating, slow cooling, and mechanical cleaning. The breaks were extensive, probably 2 feet overall. Nearly 50 years later they are holding! It was used as primary heat for ten years, until the efficiency police voiced their condemnation. These days it's an ornament.

Tomorrow, I'll ask some unpleasant questions of you about selling out, and using a square wave welder.

Willie

Thanks Willie

You must be referring to the little guy on the left...the 2 of them glare at each other and argue about who gets to stay

MinnesotaDave wrote:Thanks Willie

You must be referring to the little guy on the left...the 2 of them glare at each other and argue about who gets to stay

image.jpeg

Well I would be glad to take the 350 off of your hands! Just give me a little time to find the 100 amp breaker I need just to start the damn thing. Those have to be two of the toughest machines ever. What kind of pedal do you use with the 350-still the original? Water cooled torch?

Farmwelding wrote:

MinnesotaDave wrote:Thanks Willie

You must be referring to the little guy on the left...the 2 of them glare at each other and argue about who gets to stay

image.jpeg

Well I would be glad to take the 350 off of your hands! Just give me a little time to find the 100 amp breaker I need just to start the damn thing. Those have to be two of the toughest machines ever. What kind of pedal do you use with the 350-still the original? Water cooled torch?

Standard Miller pedal of proper type for each - after I switched to water cooled it's all I use except when using one of my small machines

I'd adopt either. Both are historically significant, both legends. I can duplicate the performance of the Syncrowave with one of those modern electronic things. The sheer tonnage of the yellow thing can't be topped! So what if it can't weld, Its weight exceeds all the others. It'd leave a dent in a concrete floor. I'll find a way to power it!

.

Willie

Bill Beauregard wrote:I'd adopt either. Both are historically significant, both legends. I can duplicate the performance of the Syncrowave with one of those modern electronic things. The sheer tonnage of the yellow thing can't be topped! So what if it can't weld, Its weight exceeds all the others. It'd leave a dent in a concrete floor. I'll find a way to power it!

.

Willie

They both weld excellent but the Airco has a smoother 7018 arc

Probably due to an OCV of around 100 volts.

The Syncro is a little "choppy" when stick welding - kind of harsh in comparison.

Pretty subtle difference though.

I have tig welded a lot of cast using Ni-rod It's very expensive but if you are careful with your preheat post heat and peaning it will hold and last. the last job I did was a ford 8N axle housing that was broken in half. lots of time and patients and a happy customer.

noddybrian wrote:It's a shame .................. - funny on the rods - over here nickel has been used for as long as I can remember & is easy to get & not too expensive - aluminum bronze is unheard of -g related things.

Could you let me know the details and breed of the nickel bronze TIG rod you use please.

I have found alu-bronze here ;

http://www.weldability-sif.com/pages/vi ... g=RT731650

http://www.weldability-sif.com/pages/vi ... g=RO321601

But neither have the mechanical properties of the No 2 nickel bronze gas rod.

Sorry it took so long to get back on here For Nickle tig rod Ni-Rod 99 I just Repaired a Cast iron Block for a Diesel engine. One of the Motor Mount lugs was Broken off and gone so I turned a new one on the Lathe, Welded her up and filled the voids where it took out part of the oil pan mounting flange. looks nice and customer was happy.

DrDogwood wrote:Sorry it took so long to get back on here For Nickle tig rod Ni-Rod 99 I just Repaired a Cast iron Block for a Diesel engine. One of the Motor Mount lugs was Broken off and gone so I turned a new one on the Lathe, Welded her up and filled the voids where it took out part of the oil pan mounting flange. looks nice and customer was happy.

Wow...very nice work! I usually turn down cast unless it's someone I know but I have had success with Inconel 625, silicon bronze and AL bronze. I recently picked up some N-82 filler wire...any opinion on that? I bought it by mistake as I mis-read the bin it was in but I did a little snooping and I read it's pretty good for cast iron so I hung onto it.

exnailpounder wrote: I recently picked up some N-82 filler wire...any opinion on that? I bought it by mistake as I mis-read the bin it was in but I did a little snooping and I read it's pretty good for cast iron so I hung onto it.

Inconel 82 is a good dissimilar rod also. LINK to a PDF file

LtBadd wrote:

exnailpounder wrote: I recently picked up some N-82 filler wire...any opinion on that? I bought it by mistake as I mis-read the bin it was in but I did a little snooping and I read it's pretty good for cast iron so I hung onto it.

Inconel 82 is a good dissimilar rod also. LINK to a PDF file

Thanks Richard. I will probably never live long enough to weld dissimilar Inconel I might not live long enough to weld Inconel at all ever again. I played with it and it's very interesting how it welds...kind of a sluggish puddle but manageable.

The PDF also mentions the joining of stainless and carbon steels....

LtBadd wrote:The PDF also mentions the joining of stainless and carbon steels....

You're right...I guess I should have read past the first sentence. That opens up alot of new doors now.