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Small welding table...

What welding projects are you working on? Are you proud of something you built?
How about posting some pics so other welders can get some ideas?

Re: Small welding table...

Postby aland » Mon Feb 05, 2018 7:42 am

Ok, I should update this thread.

My LWS gave me some Harris Super MissleWeld...I used it to weld Chrome nuts to mild steel angle iron.

That got me the casters, then looking at it I decided to put a cross member from the front to back. I intentionally left the sides open, that way I could put my welder under the table if I wanted. I may do that for the interim. But the problem is the argon tank won't fit under there, and I want the argon together with the cart, that's the way it was meant to be. 8-)

I still need a torch holder, haven't decided what to do...was going to just use pipe, but the stubby kit doesn't seem well suited for that...the pipe I have is also pretty heavy. I think I may do something with a magnetic base. I have an idea to use an S hook I forged, cut it in half and use the two loops spaced to hold the torch. Mag base would probably be best in case I want to move it.

Alan
Attachments
welding-table-cross-member-added.jpg
This is how I have it now, with the cross member.
welding-table-cross-member-added.jpg (117.43 KiB) Viewed 76 times
welding-table-ready.jpg
After I officially welded my nuts with Super MissleWeld. A wise man once said it always pays to chrome your nuts before you weld them with Super MissleWeld, it could be true...:-/
welding-table-ready.jpg (57.65 KiB) Viewed 76 times
Last edited by aland on Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:37 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby tungstendipper » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:51 am

Looking good Billy Ray! (what movie did that come from)

Go with the mag base.

Have you ever thought of finding someone who has a water jet to cut you a certiflat table top? I have a friend who has one and charges 90 bucks an hour. If you do the CAD drawing. I wish i knew this before ordering my Certiflat table.

BTW...My 3' X 4' Certiflat table wasn't flat. It had a 1/4" bow running down the center of the longest length. It even pulled and bowed the supports underneath! We solved it by ordering another 1/4" top ( the original top is 3/16") then I shimmed the outer edges and screwed the top down. This allow me adjust the bow as it settles. So now I have a top that is just short of being a 1/2"
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby cj737 » Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:00 am

tungstendipper wrote:Looking good Billy Ray! (what movie did that come from) Trading Places

Have you ever thought of finding someone who has a water jet to cut you a certiflat table top? I have a friend who has one and charges 90 bucks an hour. If you do the CAD drawing. I wish i knew this before ordering my Certiflat table. Besides water jetting the slots, you still need to mill both sides of the material to insure "flatness". A water jet can't do that. It can be done by Blanchard Grinding, but that costs extra money.
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby tungstendipper » Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:02 am

cj737 wrote:
tungstendipper wrote:Looking good Billy Ray! (what movie did that come from) Trading Places

Have you ever thought of finding someone who has a water jet to cut you a certiflat table top? I have a friend who has one and charges 90 bucks an hour. If you do the CAD drawing. I wish i knew this before ordering my Certiflat table. Besides water jetting the slots, you still need to mill both sides of the material to insure "flatness". A water jet can't do that. It can be done by Blanchard Grinding, but that costs extra money.

Certiflat tables aren't ground either. That's a luxury I dream about. I'm grateful just to have a 3" X 4" area that is level and some what flat. For years I had nothing, except for a 4' X 4' particle board table with a 1/2" bow in it. I don't understand the advantage for going with a ground table for welding. For machinist work it would be cat's meow. In a welding environment don't you have to worry about welding and grinding spatter? Then how do you clean it? I would be afraid of grinding on it, not mention welding on it.
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby aland » Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:08 am

tungstendipper wrote:Go with the mag base.


Yeah, the more I think about it the better it is...I might have a an old Crapsman, I have 2 or 3 Nogas, but I think i have another older style with just pivot rods. I just need to adapt something with 3/8" pin.

tungstendipper wrote:Have you ever thought of finding someone who has a water jet to cut you a certiflat table top?


Well, they're certainly not the only game in town, and the StrongHand BuildPro tables are pretty nice as a couple others I've seen. But at the end of the day the Certiflat gives the tab-n-slot, it's the frame that allows you to secure it and weld it flat. Even if I was to make the plates, still needs the frame.

Most of the decent tables are like 5x (or more) than the Certiflat. Ideally I would like a 2'x2' fabblock. Maybe this will allow me to wait a bit and get that. The ProTable is what I was thinking, they have a 2'x3' table that is only $200. The 2'x2' FabBlock is $400. It has a lot of advantages, IMO. You can add FabWings to it, so you could extend the 2'x2'. some of the fixtures fit into the sides, like the Adjustable FabSquare, you can bolt it to the side of the table. The wings and squares seem pretty reasonable priced as you also weld them as well.

tungstendipper wrote:BTW...My 3' X 4' Certiflat table wasn't flat.


My understanding is that none of them are flat, it's when you clamp it all together when you weld it is what make it and keeps it flat. You can do that with u-bolts.

Are you saying that your table was not flat after you assembled it? If so, could be faulty parts. You should contact them.

tungstendipper wrote:So now I have a top that is just short of being a 1/2"


That's another thing with the fabBlocks, they have options for thicker material. Even still, I haven't heard of anyone complaining, unless it was assembled wrong. I've seen several videos of people welding them up, they seem very flat, even the ProTable and I think it's only 1/4". The frame is only 2" thick on those, where the fabBlock is 6" I think. But the 2x2 block will allow a lot of expansion and additions that work with the table.

For me the bottom line is that I won't be able to beat their cost. As it is, my freight might be less than other people as I'm in CA and much of their product ships UPS. Bigger stuff needs to go freight.

Alan (going to use this little table for a bit while I try to decide what to do)
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby cj737 » Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:13 am

If you want to fixture up something, having a table thats flat to a tolerance is important as everything you do during setup is based upon the table. But that's dependent upon what you're doing. Weld splatter is controlled with sprays or surface treatments.

Plate steel is not flat. Not by a long shot. Having it blanchard ground to within a reasonable tolerance is a great idea if your needs dictate. I had mine done to 0.01 because that's as critical as I wanted it. I have just always made my own tables because I want a larger surface than they sell for a reasonable price. And I want a much thicker slab for rigidity due to surface size.
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby tungstendipper » Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:58 am

My understanding is that none of them are flat, it's when you clamp it all together when you weld it is what make it and keeps it flat. You can do that with u-bolts.

Are you saying that your table was not flat after you assembled it? If so, could be faulty parts. You should contact them.

I did contact them. They told me my top came off the end of the roll of steel, and their reverse rollers did not take out the bow. The u bolts you are referring to makes the top strait when clamped to the stiffeners provided. My top bowed their stiffeners! So I shimmed the low spots a clamped the high spots. This got it half way. So the then they told me to place the top with the stiffeners welded on, between to 4x4's and use a sledge hammer to beat it level.
That's NOT how I do things :x !! So they gave me a deal on a 1/4" top and to my amazement all the holes aligned up perfectly. I rented a MAgdrill and drill and tapped, and shimmed the top.
Attachments
clamp top.jpg
clamp top.jpg (113.93 KiB) Viewed 70 times
shim top.jpg
This is how much I had to shim the top the first time, the second time was about 1/16"
shim top.jpg (58.06 KiB) Viewed 70 times
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby tungstendipper » Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:59 am

cj737 wrote:If you want to fixture up something, having a table thats flat to a tolerance is important as everything you do during setup is based upon the table. But that's dependent upon what you're doing. Weld splatter is controlled with sprays or surface treatments.

Plate steel is not flat. Not by a long shot. Having it blanchard ground to within a reasonable tolerance is a great idea if your needs dictate. I had mine done to 0.01 because that's as critical as I wanted it. I have just always made my own tables because I want a larger surface than they sell for a reasonable price. And I want a much thicker slab for rigidity due to surface size.


I would love to see your shop and learn more from you.
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby cj737 » Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:31 pm

tungstendipper wrote:I would love to see your shop and learn more from you.

Bring a pack of matches with you. Everything I can teach you, you can write on the head of a wooden match and still have room to sign it :oops:
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Re: Small welding table...

Postby aland » Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:38 pm

tungstendipper wrote:The u bolts you are referring to makes the top strait when clamped to the stiffeners provided. My top bowed their stiffeners!


td,

From what I've read that is a defect if so. Seems that once you weld the top to the stiffeners it should stay flat.

They didn't say that was a defect if the top bowed the stiffeners?

Just curious...you're one of the few I've even seen complaining about fit/finish/flatness...

cj737 wrote:Bring a pack of matches with you. Everything I can teach you, you can write on the head of a wooden match and still have room to sign it :oops:


I don't know about that, you've been pretty helpful to me, and I've seen quite a bit more info than would fit on that match head, just in the time I've seen you posting here. :roll:

Alan
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