[BillE.Dee]

If I do this, I gonna get beatin.... I do this !

On the fabrication series, they showed using a higher heat and faster run time will get the job done without a large HAZ....Alan.

[TraditionalToolworks]

On the fabrication series, they showed using a higher heat and faster run time will get the job done without a large HAZ....Alan.

Without any context I'm really not sure what you're talking about...

Are you talking about welding a stainless nut to steel?

[TraditionalToolworks]

Coating the bolt with anti-seize will allow the stainless bolt to back out of the nut. However, if you burned off the anti-seize, then it will have no residual effect and you're SOL. Just tack the piece with the bolt in place, then remove the bolt before final welding. OR for Pete's sake, ease off on the heat, Killer!

I had the heat turned dow, 75 amps welding on .093" tube. Maybe I needed to go even lower, but it didn't seem to be penetrating the steel, seems most was going into the stainless bolt and f#@$ing it up.

I'll try these steel flange nuts, using anti-seize.

[Poland308]

Ss melts at a lower temp than steel.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Ss melts at a lower temp than steel.

Josh,

Yes, that's why I had knocked it down to 75 amps previously. What amps would you use in that situattion? I figure I need about 90-95 amps for the steel, would you keep those amps and focus the arc on the steel?

[LtBadd]

Ss melts at a lower temp than steel.

Josh,

Yes, that's why I had knocked it down to 75 amps previously. What amps would you use in that situattion? I figure I need about 90-95 amps for the steel, would you keep those amps and focus the arc on the steel?

As a side note, turning the amps down lowers the volume of heat, the arc is still the same, if travel speed remains the same with the lower amps then less heat input

[Poland308]

I’d be setting my max at 100 amps but using a thumb wheel to ramp dawn as soon as I puddle. Focus on the steel, then filler and Cary the edge up to the SS. If I had no control running scratch start I’d be between 70 and 100. Depending on thickness of base metal and length of weld.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I’d be setting my max at 100 amps but using a thumb wheel to ramp dawn as soon as I puddle. Focus on the steel, then filler and Cary the edge up to the SS. If I had no control running scratch start I’d be between 70 and 100. Depending on thickness of base metal and length of weld.

One of my mistakes was not setting enough amps and probably not even flooring the pedal, I should have set it higher and got the puddle going right away then lower as you suggest.

I will keep this in mind, but now it's steel on steel, but will still go high with puddle and feather down.

[Coldman]

That's it.
On ss nuts I'll pulse as well. Comes up a treat.

[TraditionalToolworks]

That's it.
On ss nuts I'll pulse as well. Comes up a treat.

I do have pulse...should probably use it...but the pedal can do the same thing, don't I know...

[TraditionalToolworks]

These wheels and casters were kicking my arse, but finally got over this hump...

These low profile flange nuts worked out well.



Got the casters on.



And the bottom frame with the wheels and casters is together. Now I will remove all the wheels and casters and finish the posts and top frame.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Got the rear posts started, but only got the long sides on the bottom...will try to get more time in tomorrow. Not my best looking welds, but at some point you need to keep plowing through on an actual project rather than just padding beads. It's the only way you learn how to build $#!T, IMO.