Nice job Oscar. I'm surprised you didn't run at least the short pieces through a blast cabinet and clean up the ends some more first. It might have saved a couple that you ended up grinding back out. Probably due to paint. Looks good in any case and sure is functional.
That's the first I've ever seen that software. That's pretty cool. What does a copy of that set you back?
Thanks, but no blast cabinet here. Yet. 
The necessary grinding was just due to lack of overall practice stick welding, which is why I decided to stick weld it. By the time I got to the last weld joint, it came out pretty good! LOL
The Pro version I have is $295. You can add on the other modules as well. I have the Sheet Metal and Header Design module, but they also have a bunch of other ones that simplify a lot of designs, like their Roll Cage and Armor Pack Template Modules. In those, the parts are already there, and you just adjust the dimensions you want to adjust, and the software stretches/shrinks/etc the whole thing for you. In fact, I just checked their webpage, and they have 20% off the modules!! I think I'm gonna add some more!
The necessary grinding was just due to lack of overall practice stick welding, which is why I decided to stick weld it. By the time I got to the last weld joint, it came out pretty good! LOL
The Pro version I have is $295. You can add on the other modules as well. I have the Sheet Metal and Header Design module, but they also have a bunch of other ones that simplify a lot of designs, like their Roll Cage and Armor Pack Template Modules. In those, the parts are already there, and you just adjust the dimensions you want to adjust, and the software stretches/shrinks/etc the whole thing for you. In fact, I just checked their webpage, and they have 20% off the modules!! I think I'm gonna add some more!
I figured with all the stored-outside steel you have you'd have been at Harbor Freight long ago grabbing one of them. They look pretty nice for what they cost. Every bit as nice as mine from Empire Abrasives (mine's quite old now). I just made a new plexiglass window for mine a few weeks ago. Gets to where you can't even tell where the parts are inside it gets so frosted up. I wish there was a way to get long parts through, like, maybe having 2 openings with flaps on that allow a part to pass through the thing. I pay someone else to do long lengths for me.
That software is very cool. If a guy did tons of tubing fab work, that would almost be a must.
I was sorta disappointed you didn't use your little $50 stick welder to do that. Would'a been cool to try.
That software is very cool. If a guy did tons of tubing fab work, that would almost be a must.
I was sorta disappointed you didn't use your little $50 stick welder to do that.
Would'a been cool to try.This is very often the result of the "gun angle" on the part. Many folks point the gun 90* to the part believing this produces better results in stripping. In fact, the opposite is true.BugHunter wrote:I just made a new plexiglass window for mine a few weeks ago. Gets to where you can't even tell where the parts are inside it gets so frosted up.
Holding an acute angle to the part is far more effective for the following reasons:
1. It strips the surface in a "peeling" motion, not pulverizing the surface
2. It produces less heat into the part
3. It reduces the surface deformation of the part from blasting
4. The media is deflected away from the gun, where at 90* it is bouncing back towards the glass, frosting it up
5. It prolongs the life of the media because it is not getting pulverized
6. It requires less air pressure to strip than to pulverize
7. You can use a less abrasive media by altering your technique
Best of luck-
A few helpful tips for you, Oscar-
I'm not sure why you chose 6010 vs 7108 unless you have heaps of it laying about and want to burn it up. 7018 is easier to run, stronger, and given that you welded uphill, perfectly suitable for the task at hand.
I suspect the porosity you experienced is due to arc length. 6010 whip-pause is prone to introducing length issues with "infrequent welders". It's another good reason to use 7018.
With a 3/32 or 1/8 7018, I would simply have run a two-touch bead instead of a straight-in gouge whip-pause. You would have yielded a stronger, better result. What you did is perfectly fine, but always ask yourself: Is what I am practicing Best Practice? In that regard, I think you missed. Given how much weight will be on that rack, strong, safe welds are far more important than "technically experimented" welds.
Skip the "advanced features" and focus on your technique. We all need to do this. Once you can lay that bead in any direction, both hands while standing on your head, then contemplate adding challenges to your diet. You will spend less time grinding and more time fabricating.
When you Plasma cut (or any cutting) always sight ahead of where you are. This helps greatly to eliminate the jogging of the cut line and produces a straighter cut. It is also advantageous to change your body location whenever possible. Don't cut from the end, cut from the length side. You can use the piece you want as a rest for your hands instead of having to waver in space with no support. This too helps get you a better cut.
I worked a job with a guy who could Oxy cut better than a CNC laser. His lines were dead straight, virtually no dross, and he could even bevel as he went. But he spent more time setting up, positioning himself, moving material to get the best results. Then he saved all the time back because he did not need to do clean-up, grinding or re-cuts. It made me realize how forethought makes better outcomes.
I'm not sure why you chose 6010 vs 7108 unless you have heaps of it laying about and want to burn it up. 7018 is easier to run, stronger, and given that you welded uphill, perfectly suitable for the task at hand.
I suspect the porosity you experienced is due to arc length. 6010 whip-pause is prone to introducing length issues with "infrequent welders". It's another good reason to use 7018.
With a 3/32 or 1/8 7018, I would simply have run a two-touch bead instead of a straight-in gouge whip-pause. You would have yielded a stronger, better result. What you did is perfectly fine, but always ask yourself: Is what I am practicing Best Practice? In that regard, I think you missed. Given how much weight will be on that rack, strong, safe welds are far more important than "technically experimented" welds.
Skip the "advanced features" and focus on your technique. We all need to do this. Once you can lay that bead in any direction, both hands while standing on your head, then contemplate adding challenges to your diet. You will spend less time grinding and more time fabricating.
When you Plasma cut (or any cutting) always sight ahead of where you are. This helps greatly to eliminate the jogging of the cut line and produces a straighter cut. It is also advantageous to change your body location whenever possible. Don't cut from the end, cut from the length side. You can use the piece you want as a rest for your hands instead of having to waver in space with no support. This too helps get you a better cut.
I worked a job with a guy who could Oxy cut better than a CNC laser. His lines were dead straight, virtually no dross, and he could even bevel as he went. But he spent more time setting up, positioning himself, moving material to get the best results. Then he saved all the time back because he did not need to do clean-up, grinding or re-cuts. It made me realize how forethought makes better outcomes.
I actually try not to blast at right angles to the parts specifically to save the window. Not gonna say I always have, but I try to avoid sand bouncing back. My old window was old, like, old enough to drink.cj737 wrote:This is very often the result of the "gun angle" on the part. Many folks point the gun 90* to the part believing this produces better results in stripping. In fact, the opposite is true.BugHunter wrote:I just made a new plexiglass window for mine a few weeks ago. Gets to where you can't even tell where the parts are inside it gets so frosted up.
Holding an acute angle to the part is far more effective for the following reasons:
1. It strips the surface in a "peeling" motion, not pulverizing the surface
2. It produces less heat into the part
3. It reduces the surface deformation of the part from blasting
4. The media is deflected away from the gun, where at 90* it is bouncing back towards the glass, frosting it up
5. It prolongs the life of the media because it is not getting pulverized
6. It requires less air pressure to strip than to pulverize
7. You can use a less abrasive media by altering your technique
Best of luck-
Long past due for replacement, but for years I really didn't use the cabinet that much. Lately it's getting a lot more use. No excuse not to replace it since I get the plexi for free (scraps from the local hardware store). Thanks for the tips!
Two racks like this back to back with a slight separation distance at the bottom to allow for a bit of back angle to the rack. Built one similar for work. Put it on a angle iron frame with wheels.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh