What welding projects are you working on? Are you proud of something you built?
How about posting some pics so other welders can get some ideas?
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Owr
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Hey guys,

I`m new to the forum so first of all HI :)

Now to my question:

I have to weld a box with the following measurements:

29x17x9 inches with the material being 3/8 inches thick. It`s going to be welded with 7018 electrode.

Is there any data or if you have any information on the correct sequence of welds to prevent or at least minimize distortion?
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Owr,

Hi, and welcome to the forum.

Do you need to weld inside and out?

When you say 'Box', will it have 6 sides welded (i.e. is it a sealed cube?)

The most important thing to reduce distortion is to tack it together initially, by getting good fit-up and stitching it together with plenty of distributed tacks. Then go about welding all of the sides, again with staggered welds.

if it's sealed you'll have to take some consideration for internal pressure issues.

Others will chime in with great ideas too, hopefully.

Trev
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dsmabe
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I wouldn't think 3/8 would warp much as long as you don't weld too much at a time.
Use plenty of tacks, and there is plenty of real estate on that project to skip around to keep too much heat from building up.
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Welcome. I agree with using plenty of tacks and staggering your welds. I'd just like to add my emphasis to the importance of proper fit up. In my experience the fit up and joint prep was the key to a good result. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
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Weld it all up except for (1) spot, maybe 1/2" long.

Let the whole thing cool to room tempature.

Than weld up the last bit.

Stagger your welds, but it won't warp much.


Best regards,
~John
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Owr
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Well, it`s all welded and there is almost no warpage. I welded the corners first and then welded the center part of the longer side then moved to the shorter side. I welded those welds from the center out to the corners and moved diagonally for the next weld.
Then flip it over, repeat and eventually weld the rest on the longer side moving to the corners. That`s all folks :D
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Box1.jpg
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Are we allowed to ask what's it for?
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
Owr
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It`s a strongman tool. For lifts like this:

http://www.ironmind.com/ironmind/opencm ... ctory.html
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I'm sure it's just my eyes playing tricks, but in the first photo it looks a bit like a crack near the top of the vertical weld. :ugeek:
We are not lawyers nor physicians, but welders do it in all positions!

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xwrench wrote:I'm sure it's just my eyes playing tricks, but in the first photo it looks a bit like a crack near the top of the vertical weld. :ugeek:
I will back you up, looks like it to me as well.
-Jonathan
Owr
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If you mean the highlighted area, it is just a part where the weld stops and the backing is visible. Sorry to burst your bubble...
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I think they're talking about to the left of your circle. It looks like the slag may have puked down over your other weld.

Len
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Len
Owr
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It`s just metal poured over from the heat. It was grinded out and welded over with no problem whatsoever. The part under the bulge on the left is actually millscale. Should of grinded it before welding and use 3/32" instead of 1/8" but wanted to weld a bit hotter on the corners. A crack that size wouldn`t of disappear after using flap disk on it just to deburr.
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Don't take this crack question as your project is bad. Looks very good to me. Just thought that this looks like a crack. Pic is blurry but this is what I was referring to.
-Jonathan
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Owr
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I never thought of it that way. Back to the crack :) it is actually a millscale, but the picture is not of good quality so maybe that`s why it looks like it. As I said earlier, crack like that doesn`t disappear after using flap disc on it just for deburring the edge. The tie in wasn`t perfect so there was a little undercut on the sides but nothing major since the weld is already overdone for it`s application.
Owr
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Since we are already talking about weld cracks here are some pics of cracks on aluminum gates for track&field. The wind caused the gates to break.
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dsmabe
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Looks like weld material just sitting on top of everything.
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dsmabe wrote:Looks like weld material just sitting on top of everything.
Agreed! Serious "lack of penetration" issues. Those welds all appear to be (poor) cap/crown welds on metal that was not prepped for the weld.

Steve S
Owr
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I just like to take pictures of welds that are interesting to me. Sometimes you should just use stick for stainless:
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Owr wrote:I just like to take pictures of welds that are interesting to me. Sometimes you should just use stick for stainless:
Sounds like a good hobby. I'm always scrutinizing welds when out and about. Drives my friends nuts!
We are not lawyers nor physicians, but welders do it in all positions!

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Post well and truly hijacked.

Mick
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weldin mike 27 wrote:Post well and truly hijacked.

Mick
That fun-house mirror pic of you does, I suppose, qualify as a hijack...

Steve S
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At least they got the polishing right. The weld.....not so much.

Mick.
Owr
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I can`t remember how many times I have seen fences welded outside with a tig procedure. People pay lots of money for sth that is not really safe to use.

I remember one time when one of the construction sites supervisor was explaining to me how he sent some welder off the site because he was welding ss pipes with stick - outside. He said then we did it the proper way - with tig, of course without any wind protection.
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More and more lately ive been noticing failed welds. Almost always just beside the weld, usually looks like different thickness material, most of the time it's stainless, sometimes aluminum.
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