Small amount of progress tonight.
number 2 tube is a little longer after the step than the other three, but the step is in the right place, collector is in the right place and there are as few bends in each pipe as I could get. Getting those three thing right is worth more than a 15mm of length difference.
Tacked a brace across the tubes to hold everything in place, the whole lots needs to come off the head flange so that I can 'black smith' the round tube into the oval ports. then it has to go on the car to start on the secondary tubes.
What welding projects are you working on? Are you proud of something you built?
How about posting some pics so other welders can get some ideas?
How about posting some pics so other welders can get some ideas?
one more thing. if you have 2inches of fill rod in your fingers and you want to wipe the sweat off your face, PUT THE FILL DOWN FIRST.
Accidentally sticking the hot end of a fill rod up your nose is NOT a pleasant experience.
Accidentally sticking the hot end of a fill rod up your nose is NOT a pleasant experience.
Yeah. I'm lucky I didn't put my eye out like that.brad_m wrote:one more thing. if you have 2inches of fill rod in your fingers and you want to wipe the sweat off your face, PUT THE FILL DOWN FIRST.
Accidentally sticking the hot end of a fill rod up your nose is NOT a pleasant experience.
Raymond
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Actually not bad.. Seen a lot worse from commercial fabricators/sellers
Compensating for the distortion/draw in the welds when building systems is something you'll work out as you create more and more things and get to know how the material reacts and what tolerances you need to keep pre-welding to get the desired end result.
Just a tip.. I personally like to make simple jigs for any exhaust part on my car I design and build that worked out well, so afterwards I can work on a 'version 2' with at least some parts like flange locations and space restrictions already in the jig.
Eg. Use some scrap/leftover flanges and plain steel square tubing and such to create the jig. Doesn't need to take much time but can save you a lot of time afterwards. (or if mates start putting out hints that they want that same system )
Once you don't need to do the constant 'tack-testfit-grind-tack-testfit' of the initial fitup and design it saves a huge amount of time and gives you more time/freedom to look at specific parts you want to optimise/change as your season(s) progress.
Bye, Arno.
Compensating for the distortion/draw in the welds when building systems is something you'll work out as you create more and more things and get to know how the material reacts and what tolerances you need to keep pre-welding to get the desired end result.
Just a tip.. I personally like to make simple jigs for any exhaust part on my car I design and build that worked out well, so afterwards I can work on a 'version 2' with at least some parts like flange locations and space restrictions already in the jig.
Eg. Use some scrap/leftover flanges and plain steel square tubing and such to create the jig. Doesn't need to take much time but can save you a lot of time afterwards. (or if mates start putting out hints that they want that same system )
Once you don't need to do the constant 'tack-testfit-grind-tack-testfit' of the initial fitup and design it saves a huge amount of time and gives you more time/freedom to look at specific parts you want to optimise/change as your season(s) progress.
Bye, Arno.
Finished, on the car the have been proven on the race track.
Worth 0.5 seconds on 46 second lap.
Worth 0.5 seconds on 46 second lap.
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- MosquitoMoto
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:38 am
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Location:The Land Down Under
It's actually a Go Kart track that we run sprints on.MosquitoMoto wrote:Well done Brad.
What track are you running on? 46 second lap...that's a short circuit!
Kym
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ibno2c0B7Qo
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