Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
TamJeff
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I use torch mount momentary switches exclusively. Most people that try my rig, even those who are dedicated foot pedal users are surprised at the immediate freedom of movement when building large constructs consisting of many parts, or when free building where jigging isn't practical.

I used to use switches similar to these, masking taped right to the side of the torch without issue. What's great about these types is that they're a hair trigger, so you don't have to press hard on it, which is important if you have to pulse with it. Currently, I have a switch supplied by Miller that I have had on my torch for 12 years.
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Been welding like this well over 20 years. Had a forum member stop by the shop and he tried it and welded a decent pass on anodized his first try. Regular masking tape will not melt and leave goo on your parts when getting into tight spots. This is the miller switch.
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For tacking a lot of parts, the setup can't be beat IMO. Can you imagine having to drag a pedal around all of this? I work at a piecework pace. I cannot be caught shuffling around. If you ever heard one of these projects going together at the fitup stage, the difference in tack speed compared to pedaling is quite obvious. 250 amps AC, triple stacked tacks at each point will not crack.
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Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
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martinr
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TamJeff wrote:I use torch mount momentary switches exclusively. Most people that try my rig, even those who are dedicated foot pedal users are surprised at the immediate freedom of movement when building large constructs consisting of many parts, or when free building where jigging isn't practical.

I used to use switches similar to these, masking taped right to the side of the torch without issue. What's great about these types is that they're a hair trigger, so you don't have to press hard on it, which is important if you have to pulse with it. Currently, I have a switch supplied by Miller that I have had on my torch for 12 years.
Image

Been welding like this well over 20 years. Had a forum member stop by the shop and he tried it and welded a decent pass on anodized his first try. Regular masking tape will not melt and leave goo on your parts when getting into tight spots. This is the miller switch.
Image

For tacking a lot of parts, the setup can't be beat IMO. Can you imagine having to drag a pedal around all of this? I work at a piecework pace. I cannot be caught shuffling around. If you ever heard one of these projects going together at the fitup stage, the difference in tack speed compared to pedaling is quite obvious. 250 amps AC, triple stacked tacks at each point will not crack.
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Who would have thought that something seemingly as trivial as the torch switch could generate such interest and different ideas? I guess it all comes down to the different ways people have for "getting comfortable". I love the way it all makes one consider and try alternative and often better ways of doing things.

Martin
450dualsport
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martinr wrote:Who would have thought that something seemingly as trivial as the torch switch could generate such interest and different ideas? I guess it all comes down to the different ways people have for "getting comfortable". I love the way it all makes one consider and try alternative and often better ways of doing things.
Martin
I am starting to think that the basic torch switch is the way to go. It seems like there would be less torch movement trying to operate it. Also, there are a lot of settings in the 4T mode that you can take advantage of.
noddybrian
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On older style machines the foot pedal made sense - especially if most of your work could be done seated at a bench - but the torch switch really can be your friend with newer machines - if sensible parameters are set for 4T or even just using slope up / down - it frees you from having to use the pedal - helps with difficult positions / large structures & if your learning it eliminates a variable that contributes to poor results & reduces the learning curve with coordinating 3 limbs - both torch switch & pedal have their place - but as I mentioned previously I think it is an advantage to learn without the pedal.
TamJeff
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When I started where I am at now 15 years ago, these guys were having one guy work the pedal and the other guy verbally controlling it. Where I came from, I was fitting and welding 2 or 3 of these projects per week by myself. Always working full out in adrenaline mode. The other welder suffered through that pedal for 6 months after I started. He was going to prove it all wrong. Meanwhile, he got his lunch et every day until he finally submitted.

The on/off switch is the wrong way to weld aluminum. You have to break all of the rules to use it effectively. More often than not, the welds will not technically pass critical tests. The nature of this beast tho is, that everything is overbuilt and much of the welding ends up being redundant beyond weatherproofing or aesthetic considerations. It just so happens that there is typically enough mass to absorb the brunt of such carelessness with regard to temperature control. Also, the marine environment is going to play hell on the welds a lot more than a porosity or contaminant inclusion will.

There is barely room where I work much of the time for my feet, let alone a foot pedal. To switch processes back and forth ends up being counterproductive. After awhile, you just won't bother anyway. We've tried using both, even when we had guys that did nothing but weld up what we had built. WHen we would fall in and tag team on projects, they would notice we were repositioning less and would end up adopting the switch method.

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That video that Jody did with the switch/manual pulse and the joint he had set up is where he would have been in this boat with that procedure. He would have cruised through it without much fuss and likely gladly so.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
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Here's a thought... and I may try to build and test this one...

That thumb-lever hits two microswitches in progression. 1st turns the arc on at a background current (by voltage divider in the pedal circuit) at just more than the merest touch. 2nd goes to peak current by shunting the voltage divider. True manual pulse, rather than simple on/off. Perhaps even a tiny box with an adjustable pot to set the background as a percentage of max?

For where the result must meet a code?

This could be easily done...

Hmmm.

Steve S
noddybrian
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I like that idea alot - electrically it's very simple as you say ( once you measure foot pedal resistance range )- not so sure about making the torch switch enclosure to house the 2 switches without it becoming big / bulky / difficult to hold - if you have thoughts on anything that can be converted or if you do make one then I'd be very interested to see the results - I'm sure many others on the forum would as well - ( maybe you should patent & sell it ! while your at it we're still waiting for news on a " Tig glove " !
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CK flexloc with CK switch. I like the fact that it just clips on and I can spin it around to get a comfortable position with both the torch and switch. I thought it would be too big but it was actually really easy to get used to.

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Nick
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And this is what my cat thinks about the setup

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Nick
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Welders do get more Pu.. er...

Nevermind :roll:

LOL!

Steve S
rahtreelimbs
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This is what I use......#6944K11 .......have 3 torches set up with this.........very small and works very well !!!


http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=pro7n3
martinr
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rahtreelimbs wrote:This is what I use......#6944K11 .......have 3 torches set up with this.........very small and works very well !!!


http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=pro7n3


Very interesting. Any chance of a photo? Do you have it set up as Steve S's idea: first set of contacts give background amps, whilst the second set give peak amps? What technique do you use with your setup?

Many thanks

Martin
rahtreelimbs
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martinr wrote:
rahtreelimbs wrote:This is what I use......#6944K11 .......have 3 torches set up with this.........very small and works very well !!!


http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=pro7n3


Very interesting. Any chance of a photo? Do you have it set up as Steve S's idea: first set of contacts give background amps, whilst the second set give peak amps? What technique do you use with your setup?

Many thanks

Martin
Give me a few hours !!!
rahtreelimbs
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martinr wrote:
rahtreelimbs wrote:This is what I use......#6944K11 .......have 3 torches set up with this.........very small and works very well !!!


http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=pro7n3


Very interesting. Any chance of a photo? Do you have it set up as Steve S's idea: first set of contacts give background amps, whilst the second set give peak amps? What technique do you use with your setup?

Many thanks

Martin
I just have it set as an on/off switch. Never saw the need to do otherwise. Not a bad switch for $18 and change!!!

Image

Image
martinr
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rahtreelimbs wrote:
martinr wrote:
rahtreelimbs wrote:This is what I use......#6944K11 .......have 3 torches set up with this.........very small and works very well !!!


http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=pro7n3


Very interesting. Any chance of a photo? Do you have it set up as Steve S's idea: first set of contacts give background amps, whilst the second set give peak amps? What technique do you use with your setup?

Many thanks

Martin
I just have it set as an on/off switch. Never saw the need to do otherwise. Not a bad switch for $18 and change!!!

Image

Image

Many thanks. The various ideas and comments in this topic have been fascinating a very helpful to me.

Martin
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