That is aluminum. You can kinda tell due to its dull finish.When he is cutting it with a hole saw it throws teary chunks, and when he cuts it with the cutoff wheel there are no sparks.

Lol ya, you have to factor in CA cost of living. I can probably find a local iron shop to make me a few but it might cost 5x the price due to cost of living. Its just like buying used tools here. You can get the same thing anywhere else in the country at a fraction of the price.

Thanks guys. King metals was where I was looking actually. Their products seem good, but wow that freight charge seemed pricey.

Hey folks,

Anyone have recommendations to where they buy ornamental pieces like scrolls and basket twists and stuff like that? There seems like all the places I quickly googled were out of stock of everything as well, does anyone make their own?

Thanks,

Honestly 185 shouldn't see that kind of distortion I wouldn't think. I run my ck100 well over 100 all the time. I've got a miller 17 and run it hot all the time as well, never once seen a wedge collet warp like that wow. I suppose I never weld for 10 minutes continuously either though. CK150 is 100%...

I normally just hand grind it on a bench grinder, and don't even pay attention to which wheel hah. The wheel is dedicated to grinding tungsten though so I have that going for me. I think for what I do/plan to do, picking up some 1/16th is a good idea. In welding school one of the guys had a sharpie....

No problem, hope you find someone great.

Since this is your first post, I'm assuming you aren't familiar with this forum. That is OK. There is a section for job postings towards the bottom of the board, which would be more appropriate.

What bevel angle do you use for your tests?

One more quick nit, notice that you are only allowed to welding horizontal with the 1/4inch gap.

So to read this: Go to SMAW section (Bu2a). Select desired groove angle. That will give you the correct root opening. Note that you also get 1/16th plus or minus. So 45 degree angle says 1/4 inch. Now it says as fitup +1/4 or -1/16th. That means 3/16th or 1/2inch. Also note as detailed gives you ano...

Found it

d1.1 is prequalified, there should be allowable tolerances of fitup. If you can get a print out of the test procedure you should do that. Theres old versions of the d1.1 floating around online. Chapter 3 and 4 would be what you are looking for. In most of the diagrams they show a 1/4 inch gap, howev...

Let us know what you think. I feel it was an excellent addition to my hood. Welding stick outside, I noticed it cut down on all the light bouncing off my chest.

Ditto, I went with the split leather, since it had 180 reviews vs 0. In theory grain is higher quality, but there's something to be said about buying something other people can speak to.

My guess is you can't go wrong with either.

I have the split hide one on my miller DE. Its awesome. It was 2 bucks less so pretty much equal price.

My recommendation, for what it's worth (lol), is to match filler diameter to amperage. For example if you are at 20 amps on steel using a 1/16 filler is pretty large and will cool your puddle. If you feel your filler getting stick, its a good sign to go down a size. For stainless I pretty much only ...

Thanks I appreciate it! Wow, ya that's some heavy duty art. I've been finding it funny when I'll show someone a picture and they go you should build XYZ project, not having any clue how much work it will take. After having done these, I understand something like that would take a lot of work. Those ...

Spend a few weeks on and off making some flowers for some friends and family. Here are a couple shots. If anyone wants to follow along I started with a sheet 12x12in 304 24ga from McMaster. Next I cut strips about 2 inches in height by 12 inches long by 1.5 inches in width (so about 8 pedals per row...

I've got a Dewalt. It can be tricky to find the correct blade dimension for it. So far the morse brand has worked. I've got 20-24 tph blades. Sounds like I should pick up some coarser blades for the plate then.

The most annoying part of no post flow adjustment in a low amps.

If I'm welding 24ga stainless, I want more than 1 second of post flow even though I'm at less than 25 amps.

My portaband has been growing on me lately. I fabricated a bench grinder stand and it was great cutting into 3/8 plate and so on. An issue I always have with it is drift. Is there any tips and tricks to prevent this? A good example is maxing out the throat depth of 5 inches or whatever on 3/8 plate ...

I've been using 3/32 since its all I have. I'll have to pick up some 1/16.

I've been welding some sheet metal art with 24ga stainless. I set my machine around 25 amps (dial type machine), and just use the foot pedal to watch the puddle. What I've noticed: - Purple tungsten (generic branch from LWS), arc starts sputter all over the place sometimes. Once stable it welds fine...

I might even consider a third rack just under the top rack for storage of smaller items. Looks nice though. Using fasteners can be good esp if you are planning on moving, you can just disassemble.